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12v conversion


mikesinky

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i have been thinking about converting over to 12 volts so i can install a radio and such and update to some new gauges. i have gotten on the search here and found out a few things about the conversion. is it better to install a fuse block or is that not necessary? i have already redone all the wiring. i was wondering too if the 12v would be alot harder on the points or is better to convert to electronic ignition. any advice would be helpful..thanks

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well i am trying to do the least possible i know i will have to change all my lights and stuff but i was just wondering what is the least i would have to do to get the ignition right. i would leave the dist if all i need is a resistor. i like to keep it all mopar too but one gm part wont kill me. wouldnt i have to put a 12v coil on too.

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thanks grey beard and tim both for your input. i will check on the parts at napa. i wanted to keep it original at first but my gagues aint very good and i like to listen to music so i think i will just change it over. so the coil and a new alt. is all i need to do to get the ignition to work right?

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Happy New Year. Ditto on what GB said. I used a GM internally regulated alternator on both my 52 Dodge, and 36 Plymouth. I think they cost less than $60 each, and bought the 12 v coil alond w the bulbs. I installed a ballast resistor for the heater motors on each vehicle, and replaced all of the bulbs. Don't forget about the fuel guage-that will need a special resistor or you'll fry the guage-don't ask me how I learned that lesson! If I remember correctly, the front ear of the lower alternator bracket needs to be moved

7/8" forward to line up the pulleys-someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this. Good luck. Mike

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Happy New Year. Ditto on what GB said. I used a GM internally regulated alternator on both my 52 Dodge, and 36 Plymouth. I think they cost less than $60 each, and bought the 12 v coil alond w the bulbs. I installed a ballast resistor for the heater motors on each vehicle, and replaced all of the bulbs. Don't forget about the fuel guage-that will need a special resistor or you'll fry the guage-don't ask me how I learned that lesson! If I remember correctly, the front ear of the lower alternator bracket needs to be moved

7/8" forward to line up the pulleys-someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this. Good luck. Mike

can you get the ballast resistors at napa too? i also have the wide belt would napa have the ones with the wide pulleys... happry new year to all

Edited by mikesinky
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Now: What do I do with my new 6 volt battery? Can I buy another one and use two? Seems the Model D John Deere Tractors did that. Any tractor people on this forum?

Don, I always appreciate your pictures, I have down loaded a lot of them. You and others have really taught me a lot, Happy New Year.

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Can you use the amp guage if you use an 12 volt alternator?? I was going to use a delco off a chevy. On a delco I know you run the battery wire directy to the battery. the two plugged in wires one goes to a switch to turn things on and off. Can the white wire run to an amp guage??? thanks

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Amps are amps-the only thing you should have to do is to swap the wires on the back of the ammeter to reflect the change from a positive to negative ground. Likewise-with the low voltage wires on the coil-they'll need to be switched too. I installed a voltmeter under the dash to eliminate the Mopar design where everything flows through the ammeter. I've added a lot of lights to my stakebed and I didn't want to get left in the dark with the additional load going through the meter-especially if the heater was on! Mike

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BTW,

Everybody and his toothless cousin uses the old GM 10-SI alternator, when they switch to 12 volts. That old reliic is likely the only thing keepin' the company afloat these days - they musta' made a blue million of 'em.

That bein' said, GM quit making that old boat anchor back in 1986, and replaced it with the CS130. This is an alternator that is nearly half the size of the old 10-SI. It has two cooling fans instead of one, is lighter, stronger - more output by far - and no one seems to know about these things. I bought a nice used one at a salvage yard for $20 and it works like a charm. They use only two wires and will excite at idle without revving things up when the motor is cold. Even have an extra terminel for a tachometer! How lucky can ya' get?

It's the only alternator to use today, and seems like no one is aware of it. Google the thing and check it out for yerself . . . JMHO

Good Luck and Happy New Year

t

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  • 9 years later...

I was part of this original thread.  I used GM internally regulated alternators on both of my conversions, and 12v coils.  I also bypassed the ammeter on my truck due to the added lights.  I have a ballast resistor on my heater motors-they've been working fine on both vehicles for years.  On the truck, I fused all of the lights, heater, and other accessories individually.   Vacuum wipers on both vehicles so no need to do anything there.   Good luck.    

 

Edited by MBFowler
correct spelling
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-335-1014/overview/

 

No dimensions, but some info. They are available from ac delco in different max charging amps.

 

DJ

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  • 10 months later...
On 5/10/2019 at 4:09 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

you are responding to a thread that is over 9 years old and sadly we have lost the contributing member.

That is to bad he was so knowledgeable and extremely helpful.

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