1947PLEVY Posted November 29, 2009 Report Posted November 29, 2009 Hi All: I'm just about ready to coat my floor from fixing it. I'm wondering if anyone has used a truck bedliner type stuff to coat their floor. I'd like to use some on the inside and out of it. I can get a gallon for about 100 bucks and was wondering if anyone has done this before and what the results were. Thank You all and God Bless... John Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 29, 2009 Report Posted November 29, 2009 i used roofing mastic for the base coat..it was just like original factory as on the 54 Club Coupe and the3n whenb that dried nicely I coated it with roofing cool seal and duplicated the floor color...no odor..worked like a champ..do put it on in two medium coats as compared to one super heavy...you will thank me later.. Quote
1947PLEVY Posted November 29, 2009 Author Report Posted November 29, 2009 Thanks Tim: I didn't think the roofing mastic dried too good. But it's worth a shot. Just looking for something durable..any specific type? God Bless US All... John Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 I think it was Henry brand..but cannot say for sure..just went to Lowe's, go the patching mastic and put it on...I am totally sold on it for matching original looking coating Quote
michael.warshaw Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 would this be oem colors for the p15, can you guys provide a link or a pic to what you are talking about on the p15 floor i recall a rubber matting being the floor, kind of like a professional floor matt that fitted the whole car. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 (edited) no and no and not likely either way and with carpet who can see anyway..I got to admit you never fail to make me laugh..really not funny but yet I laugh...the key word here is COAT...no one is talking rubber mat or carpet... Edited November 30, 2009 by Tim Adams Quote
WatchingWolf Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 Did it on a Ford F150 we fixed up about about eight years ago. Looks like a bedliner, wears like iron, stinks like hell for about a month. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 the odor was short lived ..just leave the doors open a few days while it skins..not a problem..month..?? not in this case...but the odor may vary from maker to maker..would not second guess that for an instant..I expressed the same concern when I first reported on the stuff...was pleasantly surprised in the end..I'd still use it again.. Quote
michael.warshaw Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 I know that, but whats the purpose of coating? Quote
PatS.... Posted November 30, 2009 Report Posted November 30, 2009 (edited) Here's a Rhino application to a first gen Bronco The prep primer: Finished: They use primer on older surfaces to guarantee bonding. No air/moisture will ever get under the Rhino to the metal to rust again and this stuff will never come off like our original undercoat did. If you use rattle can boxliner on a "used", use the correct primer. Edited November 30, 2009 by PatS.... Quote
claybill Posted December 2, 2009 Report Posted December 2, 2009 i have used pickup bed liner paint (rubberized) underneath the fenders of my cars. last week laid on 2 coats in the trunk..(a trunk of many colors, it was) and it is now nice and black with rubber texture. waterproof. $50 a gallon at walmart and advance auto bill Quote
grey beard Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 Gents, On this very forum, I learned from GTK, hisself, about a product called ZeroRust. I have since used two gallons of this stuff. It is simply terrific. I am not a chemist, and cannot speak to the formula used, but this stuff will stick to metal like nothing I have ever seen, and I have tried POR-15, bed liner, and undercoating, both rubberized and otherwise. What we all want is a product that will adhere to bare metal, even if it is not perfeftly clean. This stuff adheres unbelievably, and it's made to go onto rusty metal. Works great inside door cavities, floor seams, weldments, etc. I painted this stuff on the inside of my fenders and hood right after they were sandblasted, and it took a grinder to get the few runs left from the brush marks. Guess I'm sounding like a snake oil salesman here. The neatest thing about this stuff is that it will reduce and/or clean up with lacquer thinner. POR 15 on your skin will stay there till it wears off - nasty stuff, but it doesn't stick to metal any better than ZeroRust. AND, it costs half as much. I have even used it on a tail pipe - an application it is NOT made for, and it is working great after 1500 miles. If you put this stuff on first, then add your bedliner or other sound deadener next to it. I personally like the "peel 'n seal" stuff in Lowes roofing section, butyl rubber sheating that you can cut with a scissors and peel the paper off before you stick it on. Makes great sound deadener. Then put your favorite insulation on top of that,and you'll have a quiet ride. I also like rattle can bed liner as undercoat inside fenders, AFTER I apply ZeroRustr. JMHO Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 I use Zero Rust, too. Have used it throughout my project. I think it's great. It's very tough and it is meant to be applied over stable rust. The nice thing is it will also take paint. I've used it as a primer and it has worked nicely. Grey Beard, where do you get your Zero Rust? I order mine through www.autobodystore.com. Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 Gents,On this very forum, I learned from GTK, hisself, about a product called ZeroRust. I have since used two gallons of this stuff. It is simply terrific. I am not a chemist, and cannot speak to the formula used, but this stuff will stick to metal like nothing I have ever seen, and I have tried POR-15, bed liner, and undercoating, both rubberized and otherwise. What we all want is a product that will adhere to bare metal, even if it is not perfeftly clean. This stuff adheres unbelievably, and it's made to go onto rusty metal. Works great inside door cavities, floor seams, weldments, etc. I painted this stuff on the inside of my fenders and hood right after they were sandblasted, and it took a grinder to get the few runs left from the brush marks. Guess I'm sounding like a snake oil salesman here. The neatest thing about this stuff is that it will reduce and/or clean up with lacquer thinner. POR 15 on your skin will stay there till it wears off - nasty stuff, but it doesn't stick to metal any better than ZeroRust. AND, it costs half as much. I have even used it on a tail pipe - an application it is NOT made for, and it is working great after 1500 miles. If you put this stuff on first, then add your bedliner or other sound deadener next to it. I personally like the "peel 'n seal" stuff in Lowes roofing section, butyl rubber sheating that you can cut with a scissors and peel the paper off before you stick it on. Makes great sound deadener. Then put your favorite insulation on top of that,and you'll have a quiet ride. I also like rattle can bed liner as undercoat inside fenders, AFTER I apply ZeroRustr. JMHO Hey Greybeard, does that "peel n seal" stuff from Lowes have a strong odor?Tom Quote
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