DarkSideCustoms Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 I have a 48 plymouth special deluxe 2 door sedan.I am wiring up a universal 7 wire turn signal switch, i am having trouble finding the stop light switch that i need to wire up the turn signal. i would appreciate any help to find the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 (edited) Open the hood, stand on the driver's side with your flash lite and look under the starter area right by the frame rail. Edited September 27, 2009 by FRANKIE47 it isnt under the generator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted September 27, 2009 Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 Open the hood, stand on the drivers side and look down to the frame, look just below the starter relay/solnoid on the inside of the frame just in front of the clutch overcenter spring and bellcrank. It is a screw in pressure switch with two bullet terminals facing up. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkSideCustoms Posted September 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2009 thank you i thought i would be around the master cylinder no wonder i could not find it thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Coney Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Is the switch an in-line pressure switch and therefore part of the hydrulic system, or an external, lever-operated switch that pivots when you press the brake pedal? I have the latter on my Canadian D25C coupe, but the bracketry seems decidely home-made (Dexion shelving angle iron!). When I first bought the car the stop lights did not illuminate, as the lever arm had moved on the brackets slightly and was no longer making contact with the bottom of the pedal. The guy I bought the car from says that there is a new in-line pressure switch in the spares he provided, but he did not know whether this was an original fit or just a better arrangement. I'm planning to open the hydraulic lines in due course and substitute the hydraulic switch, for a more reliable operation. Richard, London, UK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkSideCustoms Posted September 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 it is an inline pressure switch Is the switch an in-line pressure switch and therefore part of the hydrulic system, or an external, lever-operated switch that pivots when you press the brake pedal? I have the latter on my Canadian D25C coupe, but the bracketry seems decidely home-made (Dexion shelving angle iron!). When I first bought the car the stop lights did not illuminate, as the lever arm had moved on the brackets slightly and was no longer making contact with the bottom of the pedal. The guy I bought the car from says that there is a new in-line pressure switch in the spares he provided, but he did not know whether this was an original fit or just a better arrangement. I'm planning to open the hydraulic lines in due course and substitute the hydraulic switch, for a more reliable operation. Richard, London, UK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Coney Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Thank you. I guess the one in my car failed and was replaced at some point with the non-hydraulic lever arm switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jharring10 Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Hi, I was going to open a new post but figure that I'll start with a continuance of this one as it is similar in nature. I have a 1949 first series DeSoto (same as 48) and I cannot for the life of me find the stop light switch. I have looked everywhere and cannot see it. Could the oil filter be hiding it. I have a brand new one waiting to go in but just cannot find the sucker. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It was replaced year ago by a local mechanic back in the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Get under the car, find the master cylinder, follow the brake line. The switch will within a foot of the mc. Looks like this, terminals May differ depending on supplier. Get a brake switch socket to make r and r easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkers72 Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Driver’s side , top of frame rail near radiator . Under battery area accessible from top 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jharring10 Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Found it! Right behind that radiator in front of the battery where junker72 sad it was. Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Not where mine is on my 46. If you think about now would be a good time to change the power feed. I powered mine with new wire directly from the battery side of the solenoid. The line has an inline fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse. Currently the power goes from the ammeter through the fuse on the headlight switch. The repower point takes the load out of the lighting circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jharring10 Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Got the new switch in an lights are working again. Greg, I think that's a great idea and will be looking at this option. I appreciate all the help here as I couldn't find that sucker for the life of me. I never thought it would be located where it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 17 hours ago, greg g said: Not where mine is on my 46. If you think about now would be a good time to change the power feed. I powered mine with new wire directly from the battery side of the solenoid. The line has an inline fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse. Currently the power goes from the ammeter through the fuse on the headlight switch. The repower point takes the load out of the lighting circuit. Greg, Your current wiring bypasses the ammeter, which isn't a big deal, but I tend to use the ammeter to check that my brake light switch is working. After having a few failed switches I will often check that my switch is working before starting up my truck. With the key off I will step on the brake pedal. If the ammeter needle moves towards the negative side I know that I am sending current to the lights. No ammeter movements means it's time to dig out my spare switch... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 (edited) 40 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: Greg, Your current wiring bypasses the ammeter, which isn't a big deal, but I tend to use the ammeter to check that my brake light switch is working. After having a few failed switches I will often check that my switch is working before starting up my truck. With the key off I will step on the brake pedal. If the ammeter needle moves towards the negative side I know that I am sending current to the lights. No ammeter movements means it's time to dig out my spare switch... I agree. I had a bad connection at the switch for a few days and didn't catch it until after an evening drive while pulling into the shop. I now watch the ammeter to verify the brake lights are actually working. I suppose the argument could be make that if all the connections are well-maintained we shouldn't have failures.....but we are working with 70+ year-old cars..... Edited October 10, 2019 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 The funny part is, when wired as noted, applying the brakes actually induces the regulator to boost the charge rate. I can see the brake light draw indicated on the amp gauge as a positive movement. I should mention that I have my brakes wired into the body lamps as well as the center light. Also my outer lamps have after market fixtures with halogen 6 v bulbs. Running lights are 35 watt, brakes are 55 watt. Rear signals are wired to separate motorcycle fixtures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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