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Setting points


Ed Fleming

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Sorry for regurgitating an old thread, but a correction should be made. DWELL can be calculated based upon no. of engine cyl. and no. of strokes. Point gap cannot. .020" gap is also a common spec in small 1-2 cylinder engines. .020" is a good place to start, then adjust gap until proper dwell is obtained.

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Sorry for regurgitating an old thread, but a correction should be made. DWELL can be calculated based upon no. of engine cyl. and no. of strokes. Point gap cannot. .020" gap is also a common spec in small 1-2 cylinder engines. .020" is a good place to start, then adjust gap until proper dwell is obtained.

even in this approach as you use a base line gap and work from there..the use of the DWELL meter is again the only proven method to get to there..without a dwell meter and new contacts close is just that..close...

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Related to all this:  as a new 6 volt car owner, I thought I'd try and hook up an analogue 12v meter and it gave me what appeared to be a steady dwell reading that was not in specs, but "nearby."   I haven't checked it against my estimate of the actual gap yet, to see if they seem to agree, but anyone had any experience with whether or not I can trust or go by this reading?

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The dwell meter I use does not have a voltage rating. It only has 2 wires one connects to the distributor side of the coil and the other to ground. This tester simply picks up the point set opening and closing and voltage is irrelevant. Most all 12 volt point ignition systems use a voltage reducer so the actual voltage going across the points is something close to 6 volts.

 

drill2.jpg

 

dwell_meter.jpg

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  • 10 months later...

I think the deal is that the piston nearest the dizzy driveshaft may in some positions interfere with it. Putting the engine at #1 tdc assures it will clear. Also make it easy to put back in ans static time, as the engine is already where it needs to be.

Do not turn the engine while the distributor is out.

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