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Rustoleum Type Paint results For those Interested


55 Fargo

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Hi all, here are a couple of pics of a quick Tremclad (rustleum paint), sprayed out of a HVLP gun, reduced with , medium speed enamel reducer, and Evercoat Wetlook Hardener added. Mixing ratio is 8-4-1, where Dupont Nason Acrylic enamel is 8-2-1, the Tremclad is thicker viscosity paint to begin with, has a high contnet of mineral spirits, so a slower flash and dry compared to conventional auto acrylic enamel.

I only took this old hood and quickly scuffed it's rough surface with 220, then wiped with lacquer thinner.

On a slick smooth 400 wetsanded surface the gloss would be more brilliant yet, so would cuttting and polishing.

I am only posting this for a few of the guys that are interested in this kind of low budget painting on there cars,trailers, houses,mother-in-laws etc.

post-114-13585349952592_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585349952923_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rockwood
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Thanx I thought it looked half-a$$ed decent, there was no substrate prep. The paint itself went on well, no peel runs or paint problems, it's darn glossy, but would look slick on a well prepped surface.

I posted thgias there was some interest in low-budget painting on here a number of times over the past couple of years..........Fred

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10.jpg

Here is Rustoleum straight from the can with a 2 1/2" roller and only a wash with a pot scrubber as surface prep. Still looks okay after 2 years and is keeping the rust at bay.

Edited by WatchingWolf
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Hey Big Bad wolf, that looks good from my screen, and it was a cheap alternative for the time being.

This paint can be polished and waxed if it gets dull......................fred

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This is what I love about this forum, you guys are open minded enough to look at alternative methods, and ar not ready to criticize, if you don't necessarily like the idea.

I would not use an alkyd paint, like Industrial enamel or Tremclad, if my budget would allow it, it does not at this time, so I either go cheap or don't go at all., not looking for another option at this time.

Alkyd enamel is very much like the paint of the 40s 50s on our cars, unless they were lacquer paint jobs.

They will not tolerate the elemnts as a BC/CC or SS urethane or AC paint, but with hardener added they are tough and shiny.

They will require more maintenance to keep shiny, especially if left outdoors especially in the south.

I do not know how long cars in the 40s and 50s stayed shiny if left outside, but I would imagine a few years, and they would need a polish to restore the shine.

I do not bring this topic to autobodystore.com, they will get mad or laugh you off, as they are into professional products/methods only, same with hotrodders bulletin.com, the Mods get downright angry, if Rustoleum or roller painting topics are posted, and they will delete the post if this happens, no more discusiion on roller painting or alkyd enamel is allowed on there.

That is why this is a true old Mopar forum, guys who understand.......Fred

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So it sounds like I'm not really not that crazy since I'm considering using TSC tractor paint on my '40 Dodge, $30/gal seems to fit my budget better than "real" car paint. There is a limited color selection, but since I'm getting my father's Oliver 77 soon, I considering using Oliver green on the ole Dodge. If not that, Massey Ferguson grey might be nice.

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everyone must consider the merits of their vehicle, budget and DIY skills and tools...no one is really crazy at what they do..they are only different from what others do..and it is hard at time for us to let this sink in..(me included)...if you do go the way of TSC paint, of which I have looked at myself while in the store..I basically feel that if used with the proper automotive quality thinner and used with an acrylic enamel high gloss hardener you will have better results that if just used as it...I also feel certain that these are alkyld based paints and not really best for out of doors storage per say as the paint when it ages does chalk..they polish back with little effort again to the original lustere..just a bit more maintenance...but applied correctly will outlast some of the BC/CC I have seen over the ages where the painter did not get the clear applied in the proper flash time and thus causing premature seperation due to lack of chemical bond...(sanding between coats is a mechanical bond)..

of course professional body shop will scorn this to no end but then again their livelyhood is depended upon the jobs they turn out and often must turn out quickly therefore a system like this would not be something that they could really stand behind and their work is reflecetive of future work coming in..the paint systems out there are expensive but do have some degree of quality built in..however the end results is till limited to the user's ability and equipment. So I guess it would be good to agree about now that while they do good work, it is not mandatory that you have to take your work to them...

take your time and go for it..there is no sense in putting a 8000.00 paint job on a 2500.00 dollar car...

I will add one more thing here...if I were to have to choose between the TSC paint and Nason...I would have to give the TSC a fighting chance...I would not paint the Tin Man's lunchpail with Nason...of all the brands I have shot over the past 24 years..this stuff is the pitts...this goes for the lower line class of primer under the OMNI brand....Walmart rattle can probably be better stuff...

Edited by Tim Adams
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I just did a little experiment with Tremclad Gloss Medium Blue, put a small amount in a plastic cup added some Tremclad aluminum. Instant Metallic Medium Blue, nice color.

I would try this with large volumes it takes to paint a car, but may try this for small projects.

The aluminum is mor satin, and it would dull the paint a bit, plus the aluminum would be hard to control in the mix for large amounts of paint it take to paint a car or truck.

At least I think it would be difficult to do, I could be wrong.....

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everyone must consider the merits of their vehicle, budget and DIY skills and tools...no one is really crazy at what they do..they are only different from what others do..and it is hard at time for us to let this sink in..(me included)...if you do go the way of TSC paint, of which I have looked at myself while in the store..I basically feel that if used with the proper automotive quality thinner and used with an acrylic enamel high gloss hardener you will have better results that if just used as it...I also feel certain that these are alkyld based paints and not really best for out of doors storage per say as the paint when it ages does chalk..they polish back with little effort again to the original lustere..just a bit more maintenance...but applied correctly will outlast some of the BC/CC I have seen over the ages where the painter did not get the clear applied in the proper flash time and thus causing premature seperation due to lack of chemical bond...(sanding between coats is a mechanical bond)..

of course professional body shop will scorn this to no end but then again their livelyhood is depended upon the jobs they turn out and often must turn out quickly therefore a system like this would not be something that they could really stand behind and their work is reflecetive of future work coming in..the paint systems out there are expensive but do have some degree of quality built in..however the end results is till limited to the user's ability and equipment. So I guess it would be good to agree about now that while they do good work, it is not mandatory that you have to take your work to them...

take your time and go for it..there is no sense in putting a 8000.00 paint job on a 2500.00 dollar car...

I will add one more thing here...if I were to have to choose between the TSC paint and Nason...I would have to give the TSC a fighting chance...I would not paint the Tin Man's lunchpail with Nason...of all the brands I have shot over the past 24 years..this stuff is the pitts...this goes for the lower line class of primer under the OMNI brand....Walmart rattle can probably be better stuff...

I have no experiience to back me up, but I get the feeling a good quality alkyd enamel would and could be as good or better than the lower end lines of AC Enamel from the big auto paint companies.........Fred

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