moose Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 This is the manifold that I built for myself this winter. I finally decided Saturday afternoon to start the installation on my '55. Since it is my daily, I had to get it done. A couple of late nights and I just "finished" it. Lot of clean-up and tuning still to do, but it runs again! I had to show it to somebody(my 4 and 1 year old kids don't quite get it) Quote
Powerhouse Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Lookin' Good man! I can't wait to get your manifold setup installed... What do you torque the nuts at on your manifold? Also...got a close pic of your linkage? I'm working on one for my dual setup...Just going to make it out of threaded rod and some tabs with nuts to tighten them in place... Quote
Jim Yergin Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Impressive. Do you notice a significant difference in the performance? Jim Yergin Quote
claybill Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 greg...pick up a couple fram #3924 air filters at walmart )$5) they fit right in place of the little filters....and look real busnesslike! big and orange but color!!!?????i like 'em..to each his own.. bill Quote
Powerhouse Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks Greg...pretty much what I'm doin..Thanks for the pics! WHere did ya get those bearing things and are those just anchor bolts connecting to the carbs?? Quote
greg g Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Got the heim joints from a Go Kart/MicRod store, steering or brake linakge stuf for them. You can get smaller ones at places that sell supplies for radio controlled models. the rest of the stuff is jam nuts, threaded rod locking collars, and brass gromets. the liks to the carbs are brass rod, whihc I threaded on the ends, end at the carb bent 90 with a jam nut. the threads are long enough to provide some adjustment where it goes into the heim joint. The levers are held in place and adjustable on the rod by more jam nuts. It could be a bit more precise but it has worked without a problem for 8K miles. I have an auxilairy throttle return spring that goes from ont of the car arms to the inner fender (just in case) I think that I finalized the design in my little pea brain one morning about 3:30 AM. Interesting design manifold, Moose. Have you ever given any thought to building something that would use the SU carbs as used on a Jag 6?? They are slightly angled side drafts. Quote
Powerhouse Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 HA....GEE...I shoulda just looked around the shop where I work...we make atv/karting/golf race rims. We have karts and the like all over the place. Thanks for the info... Quote
Powerhouse Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Hey Moose...sorry for the temporary hi jack of your thread.. Quote
moose Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks for all the compliments. Powerhouse- don't worry about taking over. That's what a forum like this is for, to learn from others, right? And here's enlarged picture of my linkage. It's not quite done- I need to make another bell crank with a higher/longer arm to the linkage coupler rod. I'm also making return spring mounts. Jim- I'll let you know after I've driven it again. Maybe tomorrow. Greg- SU's? No but I just got my first Carter YH side-draft. I've got another coming, and I'm planning on those for my A. Quote
moose Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Posted May 5, 2009 I realized I didn't answer your question Powerhouse. Torque on the manifold nuts? I haven't ever used a torque wrench for one of my manifolds. A lot of times there's no way to get it on to the center studs. I usually just make them as tight as I can with a short ratchet or wrench. And I replace any studs that are questionable. Then run it a little, get it warm and tighten them again. Then run it a little more and tighten again. Then run it a little... and so on, till my calibrated arm isn't able to turn it anymore. My coupler rod is made of 1/4" threaded rod to the tabs at the ends, with a 5/16" steel fuel tube(1/4" ID) over it, and arms welded on. Quote
slicknapier Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 (edited) Moose, when you built your header and intake did you just buy a bunch of pre-bent tubing or did you buy a kit for something else and just adapt it? Edited May 6, 2009 by slicknapier Quote
woodscavenger Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 I love your heater control turn off valve!!! The head and headers look great. What would you charge for another setup like that? Quote
moose Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Posted May 5, 2009 (edited) I normally use mandrel pre-bent tubes. This is a one-off "made for me" set. I put a lot of hours into this one. Mostly because I have had the mechanic's car for too long. You know what I mean, when you work on something all day long for other people, you don't want to keep doing it for yourself. So my car has suffered for a while and has been looking worse and worse. Always kept running and driving, but no primping, painting or, god forbid, cleaning. So now I'm going to take some time for my own stuff. All that said if you want something like that one you'll have to make me an offer I can't refuse... Oh yeah, don't worry Bebop you are still on my current list. Edited May 6, 2009 by moose___ Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 Looks like the much sought-after Ace Hardware heater shutoff valve from here. Quote
moose Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Posted May 5, 2009 I love your heater control turn off valve!!! Thanks, use what you have right? Quote
Powerhouse Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 yes indeed...my overflow tank is a milk jar, cork stopper and some hose clamps....and carb linkage is an old butter knife...waste not want not I always say! Quote
laynrubber Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 Looking good Moose, love the headers i bought from you....still have to send the pic yet and i don't have anything of the engine put together either.....one more thing to do. Quote
n1gzd_plymouth Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 awesome. How does it sound? Rebecca Quote
Shifticus Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 Neat looking. How's it perform, and what did you have on it before? Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 Have you ran that yet? from the looks and the length of the runners it looks like it is gonna want to be a high rpm deal, not much on the bottom end. Quote
moose Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Posted May 5, 2009 Sounds smoother than before... I don't know if it's some kind of intake resonance or because I re-did the connectors from the collectors too. It still needs some tuning, it stumbles in gear pulling from an idle. But, get past that and it pulls really hard through the mid-range. It's definitely a noticeable improvement. Quote
moose Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Posted May 5, 2009 I've always been told that a long intake runner makes for better low end, and it seems true from the first few rides I've taken in the car. It pulls surprisingly hard in the midrange. Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 5, 2009 Report Posted May 5, 2009 Think tunnel ram, what rpm's do they work at. the only car with a lot of low end torque is the early 60's mopars with the long rams but they had a special cam to make them work. Quote
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