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Posted

For better or worse, the 47 is in final primer, needs to be blocked, wetsanded, and painted.

It's a so-so job, but I do not have anymore time to fool around, and the cash as well as time is tight, so hopefully will lay paint on her soon.

I know the body rpep is not stellar, but she has come a long way...........Fred

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Posted

Looks really good to me Fred. Get er painted and then spend some time sanding and buffing it. It should turn out pretty nice.

Posted
Looks really good to me Fred. Get er painted and then spend some time sanding and buffing it. It should turn out pretty nice.

Well Steve, it looks a lot better in pics, but that is the reality of my body work.

I have been doing a lot of research on Urethanes and ISOs, got me kinda a spooked. I primed this car in the garage, with the windows open, and wearing a 3M nask.

I am not sure what to do now, I might just use an enamel without an ISO containing hardener.

Urethanes, and ISO are real nasty stuff, very scary how it could get you all of a sudden, there is this guy on the Hamb, he was spraying outside, wearing a 3M mask, and he got exposed, and is very sick

Anybody got suggestions for some non ISO paints........

Posted

1) Why are there no leaves on the trees?

2) Why are there fuzzy dice hanging in this car? Will this make a difference to the paint or do you feel better because they are there? Why would any adult hang fuxxy dice in a car. I see teens driving a 97 Buick with fuzzy dice hanging and that does not bother me as they dont know better. But an adult should know better.:mad:

Posted
1) Why are there no leaves on the trees?

2) Why are there fuzzy dice hanging in this car? Will this make a difference to the paint or do you feel better because they are there? Why would any adult hang fuxxy dice in a car. I see teens driving a 97 Buick with fuzzy dice hanging and that does not bother me as they dont know better. But an adult should know better.:mad:

Answer to question #1, the effects of me spraying urethane paint has been far reaching:confused: , this year all the leaves fell off the trees early, like last October. Being your now a Southerner:rolleyes: ,(not critisizng dixie) you may have forgotten the leaves take a little longer up north to come out:p , they are budding and starting.

Answer to question #2, my 2 kids, my 5 yo son and 1 yo daughter at the time, gave me those for Fathers day:) , they will hang there till they dry rot off:rolleyes: .

Now what about the topic, whats your take on the nasties of urethane paints.......

Posted
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Now what about the topic, whats your take on the nasties of urethane paints.......

I know nohing about paint. But I do know something about soldering wires as I spent the past few days doing such. So ask me a soldering question as I am doing my best to take your thread off topic:D

Posted
I know nohing about paint. But I do know something about soldering wires as I spent the past few days doing such. So ask me a soldering question as I am doing my best to take your thread off topic:D

Now that is something I would like to learn to do properly:D , I always find it hard to solder 2 wires together in a splice situation:eek: .........Fred

Posted

Looks good to me, Fred! Have you decided on a colour yet for your car? Can't wait to see it in paint. You will want to drive it all the time to show it off!!

Posted

Yesterday I wanted to pracitce some spraying of enamel paint.

This is an old chrysler hood, no prepping, very rough surface.

I mixed Tremclad Gloss Black, and Tremclad Recreational White, to come up with a 1940s mopar dove or airwing grey.

I mixed the paint with medium speed enamel reducer, and wetlook hardener, and shot on a mist coat, then a full 2nd coat.

It is very shiny, smooth, no peel no runs, no ripples.This pic does not piclk up the shine for some reason, it is very shiny. It would be very shiny if cut and polished.

The important thing, it allowed me practice with the spray gun, very happy with the results.......Fred

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Posted

Fred, you must be a perfectionist. The body on that car looks great the top looks good as well. I think you did a great job. I remember a old painter telling me once that sometimes they painted a car to see where the bad spots were. They would then repaint later. I did not understand him until I had my first car painted. He was talking about the bleed thur and the chemical reaction. You have done such great work let a good painter paint your car, I got some real workmanship in the body it looks nice. They use the right sealer,primer and paint. They know temp and reducer. I visited a guy they is in a pickle right now as he tried to paint his car and did not know that he needed a catyls (forgive my spelling) the paint will not dry. It's been 6 days. I have some guy's helping him. The hood you did looks good however that's a single stage right? Guy's around here paint all the time, I don't and while I know what to do I have never done it on a large scale(dash boards, trim garnish moldings don't count. If you do try it I got my fingers crossed for you, get a numbered break down and follow it to the letter. Good luck;)

Posted
Fred, you must be a perfectionist. The body on that car looks great the top looks good as well. I think you did a great job. I remember a old painter telling me once that sometimes they painted a car to see where the bad spots were. They would then repaint later. I did not understand him until I had my first car painted. He was talking about the bleed thur and the chemical reaction. You have done such great work let a good painter paint your car, I got some real workmanship in the body it looks nice. They use the right sealer,primer and paint. They know temp and reducer. I visited a guy they is in a pickle right now as he tried to paint his car and did not know that he needed a catyls (forgive my spelling) the paint will not dry. It's been 6 days. I have some guy's helping him. The hood you did looks good however that's a single stage right? Guy's around here paint all the time, I don't and while I know what to do I have never done it on a large scale(dash boards, trim garnish moldings don't count. If you do try it I got my fingers crossed for you, get a numbered break down and follow it to the letter. Good luck;)

Rodney, this car will not be painted by a shop, but by me.

I am in no position to pay for a paint job right now, heckl my Wife just went to the City and bought a 2007 Pontiac Torrance AWD, so that ought a tell you how much is not left over for me to get a pro paint job.

If you don't know enough to put in the catalyst, then you outta do some study first.

I know a lot of paint theory, my practical is very elementary though.

So the car will get painted, someday she will most likely get a pro job. The bodywork looks good in pics, but is lacking, as again, I am not a pro, this car started out very rough.........thanx Fred

Posted

Fred, the paint is nasty but you have to remember that most of those guys have never painted a car and are not speaking from experance, I have been doing this since I was 15 and have painted lots of cars without proper protection(so i was stupid-not to much help from the manufacture or suppliers on safety) and so far I have made it to 50 with no problems! just be smart and use a good charcol filtered mask and get one of the paint suits and a head sock and have a good fan acting as a puller to pull out the fumes and you should be ok. you are not going to be doing this everyday. I think the guys that had a problem with it had some type of problem before and never knew it till they painted or are super sensitive to it.I will say that the new stuff is way worse than the old paint by far.

Posted
Fred, the paint is nasty but you have to remember that most of those guys have never painted a car and are not speaking from experance, I have been doing this since I was 15 and have painted lots of cars without proper protection(so i was stupid-not to much help from the manufacture or suppliers on safety) and so far I have made it to 50 with no problems! just be smart and use a good charcol filtered mask and get one of the paint suits and a head sock and have a good fan acting as a puller to pull out the fumes and you should be ok. you are not going to be doing this everyday. I think the guys that had a problem with it had some type of problem before and never knew it till they painted or are super sensitive to it.I will say that the new stuff is way worse than the old paint by far.

This is why I am now on to Lacquer primer if needed, and an enamel topcoat finish, going to even try and avoid the enamel hardener, or use it sparingly.

Going with urethane, and having the paint last a few years longer is not worht mine or any family memebers health.

IMHO, BC/CC does look great on some restos, and of course mdern cars/trucks, but somehow can look out of place on original type antique cars. JMO........Fred

Posted

Fred, prep it your self and take it to a shop with your paint and you should be able to get it sprayed for a couple hundred or less, then you don't have to worry about it, and it will come out much better than if you worry and try and cut down on the right mix to be safe and have problems with it hardening or runs all over the place.

Posted

I've sprayed urethane primer with iso's in it and always used a charcoal filter mask. I usually do wear a mask, but sometimes when you paint small items are in your garage you take the mask off before you realize the solvent fumes haven't left the area yet. I did that a few times and the worst that happened was I got sick at my stomach.

Other than that no lasting effects. Don't lose hope Fred. I painted my first car when I was 14, in the back yard at about 6am. Weren't as many bugs at that time. :)

It was a good learning experience and I've tried to do everything since then to get more experience and learn from other folks who are very good at painting.

If you never do it you'll never learn. Some people just don't want to mess with it and I understand their sentiment, but if you want to learn there will be a whole lot more pride knowing you did it.

Personally I think the most enjoyable part of restoring a car is the refinishing part. Get to watch that color get laid on and see all your hard work pay off.

Posted

Fred, I am not trying to discourage you from painting your car. I know how things are right now and being able to do-it-yourself is a great thing. I also know that the wife comes first, I know this because I have been married 24 years. I think you have heard it from the best here on the forum. I would love to paint my car. I think I know what to do however when you have options(friends) when the word gets around I would be lucky to tape it myself. This is why I wanted to do the 1939 Chrysler. I would like to do it from start to finish. I have become very impatient these last few years and with the injury I have it doesen't help.

I was in the paint store and saw a poster from a paint supplier they have the step by step on painting. I use Sherwin/williams paint because I have a nephew that works there, they actually ruduce the paint for you that way there is no room for errors. The base/clear system is very easy, the bace part allows you to correct problems before they are catastafic.

You can do this, it's not impossible because to many people can, take a deep breath and go at it. The weather will be 70 degress soon and that perfect for painting so I've heard, plus I can't wait to see it:)

Posted

Rodney, you and I have been married about the same amount of time (we hit 26 in September). And you're right. If you have an ally in the Mrs., everything else falls into place. Heck, Rodney saw my sandblasting mess and we talked about how my wife was OK with it. As long as I made it all disappear when I was done, which I did.

Fred, congratulations on what you've done. From the pictures it looks great. If the imperfections bother you, maybe you could have a friend who does body work give them a quick once-over before you paint. Now's the time while it's in 2K. I just filled in the rust pits on one of my fenders and my very first lesson was not to use too much filler. I way overdid it on the first fender and now I'm sanding all the excess off. I won't do that on the next fender. I'll be learning as I go, too.

Posted
Rodney, you and I have been married about the same amount of time (we hit 26 in September). And you're right. If you have an ally in the Mrs., everything else falls into place. Heck, Rodney saw my sandblasting mess and we talked about how my wife was OK with it. As long as I made it all disappear when I was done, which I did.

Fred, congratulations on what you've done. From the pictures it looks great. If the imperfections bother you, maybe you could have a friend who does body work give them a quick once-over before you paint. Now's the time while it's in 2K. I just filled in the rust pits on one of my fenders and my very first lesson was not to use too much filler. I way overdid it on the first fender and now I'm sanding all the excess off. I won't do that on the next fender. I'll be learning as I go, too.

Thanx Joe, but not to many offers up here to tweak my work, which I will do myself.

The secret to laying on filler is to apply filler on intended area say 8 inche X 6 inches, then sand with board/block with 80 to 100 grit, then fill lows, block again with 100, then do a skim coat over entire area, with either a premium filler like Rage Gold or 2 part glaze, then block with 150 to 180 eeven 220.

But if you have large areas of filler, and think you will add a bit here and there, and make her level and straight, that might be tough, a final skim coat over the entire area and past, is the ticket. Make sure all your outeredges of filler is nice and feathered.

On real rough panels, try the Evercoat Feather fill, use a cheap 2.0 or 2.2 gun, this is polyester primer, like shootin filler, does not shrink as much, you could bury a quarter on the panel if you had to. I personally have no tried it, but it will fill 36 grit scaratches no problem with some coating.....Fred

Posted

The first attempt at body work you always use a little to much filler:) The one thing I learned over these years is that feathering the edges is the most important thing to learn. The paper you use must have different grades because if you just use 100-220 you will put that grade of scratch in your body work. When I was fixing the trans am I made sure I ended all body work with 600 grit. this way when the 2k primer went on there were no scartches to be seen. I have heard of all the different fillers however I use the metal to metal it cuts well and it is water proof. The under door repairs that I do need this kind of protection. I did most of my body work by hand at the shop. In the end I did use the DA sander. All work came out great.

I think with cars like what we have (round) using a flexable block works very well.

I will be doing my 1941 front clip over this week so I need to strip it to bare metal. I have alittle more knowlege now so it will be be easier.:cool: boy I can't wait, hey Joe I am glad you cleaned up :) your wife is very understanding. I had to take 3 loads of junk to the dump in my 1953 Chevy last week. I did it to get her mind off the 1941, she thinks I'm though for the summer after the Pontiac...I've just begun:D I got to get ready for the movie season.

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