Reality is setting in!!

[realgonekatt]

This morning the ol 46' (plymouth c.coupe) wouldnt start for nothing. Spark? check, Gas is carb (and ether)? check

So, I finally check the compression, I only had to check #1...35psi!!! I can hardly believe she ran at all yesterday. What I wonder is if after sitting for a few decades the rings maybe rusted up and who knows? Im hoping for a simple fix to get her rolling till I can build my spare.

Im also in the middle of converting to front disc brakes (charlies kit) and got the front tore down tonight and suprize!! driver side spindle is loosey goosey..

Looks like Ill need to remove the spindles and take them to the machine shop to get the holes punched out anyhow, as I have found a 5/8 fine tap but the corresponding drill bit is not available anywhere around here. Never removed this type of spindle, looks like a real hoot though. Should I look for a worn bushing of some sort if/when I get it apart?

It looks like I might be better off to just rebuild the whole frontend at this point.

Anyone got any pointers on where to source parts? I think kanter has frontend parts but they sure are proud of em' and the budget is already quickly depleting.

Problem is, Im too obsessed with this thing to turn back now, Thinkin of selling off my pride and joy, My 66' BSA A65L that I built last year (less than 3000 miles) That would put me right in the ballpark to gettin Norma (the 46)

where I want her. This is getting serious.....

[JIPJOBXX]

Pore some diesel oil in the cyclinder and let it sit for a while your rings might just be stuck. Jon

[JIPJOBXX]

I have heard but never did do it but if you get it running pour some cleanser down the carburetor to score up the cylinders a little. Bonamie that's what I was told to use. I have an old friend that can make almost anything run and he mentioned this to me. Old school at it best!

[Don Coatney]

9/16" drill bits are available from McMaster Carr. I see in your profile you are a mechanic by trade. What kind of mechanical work do you do?

[Joe Flanagan]

When I got my car and did the disc conversion, I redid the whole front end. I figured it was full of surprises like the one you found. I got all my stuff at Bernbaum's. I redid the kingpin bushings, replaced the bearings at the kingpins, put in all new rubber in the control arms, etc. I figured since I was going to have it all torn up for the disc conversion, I might as well do it all.

[realgonekatt]

Im an A.S.E master tech, worked at landrover for 3 years and mazda for 2 years. Im at an independent transmission and general repair shop now. Lately, been lucky to get any work at all. Studying on switching trades quite a bit though.

Im after a 37/64" drill bit. even snap-on didnt have one....

9/16" drill bits are available from McMaster Carr. I see in your profile you are a mechanic by trade. What kind of mechanical work do you do?

[realgonekatt]

Yeah, thats the route im going, I plan on keeping this car for a long while, and drving her about every day. Plus, I just cant bolt up new stuff on all that crusty mess. greazy mud has replaced all the rubber long ago. Were the parts pricey?

How well did everything come apart/go together?

When I got my car and did the disc conversion, I redid the whole front end. I figured it was full of surprises like the one you found. I got all my stuff at Bernbaum's. I redid the kingpin bushings, replaced the bearings at the kingpins, put in all new rubber in the control arms, etc. I figured since I was going to have it all torn up for the disc conversion, I might as well do it all.

[Don Coatney]

Im an A.S.E master tech, worked at landrover for 3 years and mazda for 2 years. Im at an independent transmission and general repair shop now. Lately, been lucky to get any work at all. Studying on switching trades quite a bit though.

Im after a 37/64" drill bit. even snap-on didnt have one....

Once again McMaster Carr has the drill bit you need.

[Joe Flanagan]

I redid my front end about seven years ago so my memory is a little foggy. I think all the rebuild stuff was around 200-300 bucks. That didn't include the disc conversion kit, though. But like I said, I don't remember real well. If you want to price it out, go to Andy Bernbaum's website and go to his parts index. It's easy to use and you can just add the stuff up that you need. I also got all new ball joints/tie rod ends. Getting the old stuff apart can be a challenge. I'd plan on snapping off a few bolts here and there. I followed the manual when I put the front end back together as there are some specific measurements, etc. that you have to go by. What I found difficult was torquing down the new bushings in the control arms while keeping the right distance between the arms themselves. Mopar had a special tool for that, which youl'll see in the manual. I had to improvise. The other thing I should mention is that before you try to drive the kingpins out, there is a tapered pin that secures them in place and it can only be driven out in one direction. This pin is usually so covered in grime you couldn't find it in a hundred years. I didn't even know the thing existed and I was trying to drive my pins out and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. At that point, I wasn't paying close enough attention to the manual, I guess. It's in the fine print, as they say. There are two bushings for each king pin. They have to be line reamed. Since you're a mechanic, you shouldn't have any trouble with that. And now I'm just remembering I got new coil springs, too, and I think that was 200 and some change. If you've got a manual and all the right equipment it's actually a pretty fun job. Here's a picture of my project:

[realgonekatt]

Im a mechanic but, unfortunately, I work on modern cars for a living. THis old stuff is the biggest challenge, Its not like I drive out kingpins on a daily basis at work. doing a timing belt job on a lexus is hardly comparable to working on our cars.

With that said, Working on this car is almost therapeutic in its simplicity. But one should never confuse simple with easy.

Today Im going to order my king pin kits, might have to put off the bushings/tie rods etc. for another time as it looks like $400 that I dont have right now.

I still need to clean and inspect everything though, and if its too bad off then,

I suppose Ill have no choice.

Yall, know any quicker way of removing 60+ yrs of mud/grease. Ive been using a wire brush and mineral spirits and Its slow going. Labor of love is what I keep telling myself.

[james curl]

Try oven cleaner, just spray it on and leave it overnight, then rinse off with water. The main ingredient is Lye. Might take several applications to get it all but it will go to bare metal before it is through.

[Plymouthy Adams]

actually a good putty knife will go a long way in removing the mixture of dirt and grease...you can also flash this with a propane torch and use a cloth to get the small residue left from the putty knife..then use of kerosene and a small 1 inch natural brissle brush will finish the job...

[Norm's Coupe]

I wouldn't sell off my other toys if I were you. You'll just be sorry a year or two down the road. I'd just keep them and do the work on the Plymouth slower as the money became available. After all, it's a hobby can, you don't need it for everyday, so it doesn't matter when you get it done. At only 28 years old, you've got lots of time. I know people who took more years than you've been on earth to fix up their old cars.

These cars are both simpler and easier to work on than the modern cars. So, if you are a mechanic, it should all come easy once you get into it. The electrical system is a whole lot simpler and easier because you don't have all the electronic garbage on it. Basically the mechanical components are about the same as on the new cars, especially the engine.

That said. You mentioned you are an ASE certified master mechanic. Think back. How did you get your ASE certification? Through studying books and also working at the dealers shops. At those shops you had service manuals to help you determine the problems with the cars, and the books gave the solution to the problem. You can get the same kind of education from a service manual for your car. They are available from Crankin Hope (link on reference page), or online through other places. You can also pick up a parts manual for your car from most of those same people. Will be the best $50 or $60 (total for both books) you will spend on your car.

[Joe Flanagan]

I second the putty knife motion. I've had good luck with oven cleaner, too. If I were you, I'd just take my time and enjoy it. Once you start hurrying, the fun goes out of it.

[Frank Elder]

Put her on the rack and use a hotsy if you have access to one, steaming hot water works miracles:D

[TodFitch]

I wouldn't sell off my other toys if I were you. You'll just be sorry a year or two down the road. I'd just keep them and do the work on the Plymouth slower as the money became available. After all' date=' it's a hobby can, you don't need it for everyday, so it doesn't matter when you get it done. At only 28 years old, you've got lots of time. I know people who took more years than you've been on earth to fix up their old cars.

These cars are both simpler and easier to work on than the modern cars. So, if you are a mechanic, it should all come easy once you get into it. The electrical system is a whole lot simpler and easier because you don't have all the electronic garbage on it. Basically the mechanical components are about the same as on the new cars, especially the engine.

That said. You mentioned you are an ASE certified master mechanic. Think back. How did you get your ASE certification? Through studying books and also working at the dealers shops. At those shops you had service manuals to help you determine the problems with the cars, and the books gave the solution to the problem. You can get the same kind of education from a service manual for your car. They are available from Crankin Hope (link on reference page), or online through other places. You can also pick up a parts manual for your car from most of those same people. Will be the best $50 or $60 (total for both books) you will spend on your car.[/quote']

What he said.

[realgonekatt]

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[realgonekatt]

Heres a few progress pics gents. So far everything has come apart with no incident. this car is over 20 years older than my mercury was yet its like she was preserved by all the grease/mud (once I finally get to it)

Like I said, the kingpin joint has excessive play on the driver side, the rubber bushings on the uprights are a little shotty but, aside from that, everything is tight in the upper and lower arms. So for now, Im gonna clean and paint everything, replace the kingpins/kp bushings and the rubber then put it back together with the disc brakes and proceed as planned. I may need some guidance with the k. pin R+R. can it be accomplished with a standard shop press? or is this a job for the machine shop?

[steveplym]

Looks like you are making good progress there. I need to redo my front end too, but it will have to wait. Good luck with your project!

[realgonekatt]

I wouldn't sell off my other toys if I were you. You'll just be sorry a year or two down the road. I'd just keep them and do the work on the Plymouth slower as the money became available. After all' date=' it's a hobby can, you don't need it for everyday, so it doesn't matter when you get it done. At only 28 years old, you've got lots of time. I know people who took more years than you've been on earth to fix up their old cars.

These cars are both simpler and easier to work on than the modern cars. So, if you are a mechanic, it should all come easy once you get into it. The electrical system is a whole lot simpler and easier because you don't have all the electronic garbage on it. Basically the mechanical components are about the same as on the new cars, especially the engine.

That said. You mentioned you are an ASE certified master mechanic. Think back. How did you get your ASE certification? Through studying books and also working at the dealers shops. At those shops you had service manuals to help you determine the problems with the cars, and the books gave the solution to the problem. You can get the same kind of education from a service manual for your car. They are available from Crankin Hope (link on reference page), or online through other places. You can also pick up a parts manual for your car from most of those same people. Will be the best $50 or $60 (total for both books) you will spend on your car.[/quote']

Thanks for the response, I have already ordered a re-pop shop manual.

I dont want to come across as a dumb kid that just wants to take shortcuts and throw this thing together. Make no mistake that I want it all to be right.

But I really do need to get her on the road as circumstances are known to change and I may not have time money or whatever down the road. so I wanna keep on making progress as quickly as possible while Im in the position to do so. I'm still having fun, but tinkering with my old flat mills is what will really be fun.....at the end of the day this is what its all about...

[TodFitch]

I may need some guidance with the k. pin R+R. can it be accomplished with a standard shop press? or is this a job for the machine shop?

I haven't done a 1940s one, but I used a bench vise as a press when replacing the king pin bushings on my 1933.

And there was a recent post over on the AACA discussion forum about removing old king pin bushings using a long bolt or threaded rod and some washers of a suitable diameter. Basically you use the washers to pull the bushing out as you tighten the nut on the bolt.

If you have access to a shop press you are ahead of many of us on tooling.

[Joe Flanagan]

If I remember right, I was able to install new bushings with a common vice but I had to take them to a machinist to have them line reamed, which, I was told, is critical.

[TodFitch]

If I remember right, I was able to install new bushings with a common vice but I had to take them to a machinist to have them line reamed, which, I was told, is critical.

You do need them line reamed but I was able to get an appropriate reamer with guide.

[Frank Elder]

What does line reamed mean? And how does it apply to kingpins. It must be obvious that I have never rebuilt a front end before:eek:

[Young Ed]

The new bushings in the spindle are reamed to a custom fit to the kingpin.