55 Fargo Posted February 25, 2009 Report Posted February 25, 2009 Fred I'd jump on that deal. Keep going and get your car as smooth as possible and let him spray it. Hi Ed, this is a good deal, his work is decent too, I have seen a few of his paint obs. I can take my time this spring and early summer, with the prepping, I have got a lot of prep done over the last month too. He figures he will be able to paint it mid summer, as he has a number of vehicles to paint first,and this is only a side line for him. So I prep it as best I can, then do the final blocking, go to his place woith car, and he takes over and paints her. He looked over my work so far, and he thinks my work is decent too, but in some areas I still need more prepping, but I already knew this, so I will keep plugging along. The good part, is this, I will still driver her a bit until the last week or so before paint, that way I can get my old car drive fixes until the paint job.........Fred Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 25, 2009 Report Posted February 25, 2009 Fred does he travel? Not sure, he has a nice little country set-up at home, he said, it will be a lot nicer paint job than Maaco. Maaco paint jobs are nice too, they just can vary from Franchise to frannchise, he actually said he initally learned to paint from a guy that was a Maaco painter, as they do a lot of painting, they seemed to get good at it. I will also spend the few extra bucks and get the Centari line, it isn't much more than Nason, so why not. I figure with paint $250.00 and his labor, it will be about $500, around the same price as Maaco, which uses the Scherwin Williams Acrylic Enamel line, at least in Winnipeg they do.......Fred Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 I'm not knockin' you either, your method works for you. So you shoot your rusty metal primer from a spray can Fred? Or from a gun...big difference between aerosol and regulated air pressure, that is one of the factors in proper adhesion. Constant steady flow is better than spray shake spray shake and so on. Nothing out of a spray can can match a true automotive paint in a paint gun. Not to mention you don't have hardener in a rattlecan. Just my 2 cents. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 I'm not knockin' you either, your method works for you. So you shoot your rusty metal primer from a spray can Fred? Or from a gun...big difference between aerosol and regulated air pressure, that is one of the factors in proper adhesion. Constant steady flow is better than spray shake spray shake and so on. Nothing out of a spray can can match a true automotive paint in a paint gun. Not to mention you don't have hardener in a rattlecan. Just my 2 cents. Frankie, I don't do aerosol as a rule, but only on occcasion for certain things. For the rusty metal primer, I reduce it with automotive acrylic enamel reducer, about 40 to 50 %, then shoot it out my HVLP spray gun, usually 3 coats, each after they flash. As I have written in this thread, it's a 1st primer on bare metal, metal that is stripped,blasted cleaned. From this point it's filler work, then I have been using 2 k urethane high build primer, all with no issues as long as the rusty metal primer is cured. The rusty metal primer can be rolled if a person is so inclined, it has great adhesion, good corrosion resiatnce, and actually blocks very nice once fully cured. As far as the Rustoleum paint is concerned, I mix it as follows 8-4-1, with again automotive reducer, and wetlook acrylic enamel hardner, ratio 8-4-1. It sprays nice, again out of my HVLP. Because there is hardener added it dries faster, and is a harder shinier finish too, great for frames, inner fenders, trailers, parts etc, and if so inclined a low budget paint job. I am not rying to convince anyone to do as I do, but this has been working so far. The only thing I might do different in the future is go with a 2k epoxy primer on the bare substrate instead, but who knows, I am not finished this project, not so sure I would dive into another so quickly.....Fred Quote
moparalltheway Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 The stripper you are using is the best way. You could sand blast the smaller spots if needed. I would be careful of the primmer and paint I mix. For economy try out the tractor and implement paint at TSC. Nice stuff and lots of colors. Quote
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