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Posted

I just read all post on this but didn't get the answer. I'm installing 7 wire new signal the old one was removed but the wire's' where still there. My question is on the stoplight switch wires there are 2 old type red wires 1 too the rear stop light on trunk and The other to the head light switch,that is correct to the wiring diagram. now the new signal diagram has the red wire from signal switch to the stoplight switch, Question is how many wires are on the stoplight switch ?

I ask this because they jury riged wiring all around, in trunk, too the battery etc. Thanks Jim

Posted

Because one of the brake light bulbs needs to blink when the turn signal and brakes are on at the same time, the brake stop switch is wired through the turn signal switch.

There are two power sources for the seven wire signal switch. One to the relay, and the other to the stop switch. You can leave the power source from the headlight switch to the stop light switch, but from there it will go into the signal switch.

Check out this diagram below, an note that the wires labled three and four are mis-labled...

TurnSignal.jpg

Pete

Posted

The old signal switch Grote 966-7 has the same wire colors as the new one

The new wire diagram show's power source with fuse (red) goes to the x terminal of flasher, I have it coming from the ignition(thats where the old part went.)"The red wire from signal goes to the stop switch(what side not sure)

I thought the other red wire on the stop switch went to the trunk stop light.

I don't see any relay on the wire diagram for signal or car diagram what am I missing?

Posted

Maybe the old one was hooked up wrong........

I hooked mine up following the above directions, and it worked.

I have the tail lights as both lights and turn signals.

The center light is only a stop light.

Posted

Bob as far as I know the tail ights are park and turn 2 filament bulbs.

where did you connect the the fuse holder wire going too the x terminal on the flasher, and is there 2 wires hooked up together on the stop switch post and one wire on the other side? Where is the relay your using for the other power source?

Posted

Good questions, Jim. I'll have to think about it for a while, as it's been

some time since I hooked them up. May need to go out to the garage

and look on the car. Can't recall that there is any sort of relay in

the system. I do know my parking lights are currently hooked up as

turn signals only, since I didn't want to go to the trouble of putting in

two contact bases. Have to get ready to attend and play music for

a Valentines dance at the Elks Lodge.....so it will be tomorrow before I

can expand on my answer.

Posted
Bob as far as I know the tail ights are park and turn 2 filament bulbs.

where did you connect the the fuse holder wire going too the x terminal on the flasher, and is there 2 wires hooked up together on the stop switch post and one wire on the other side? Where is the relay your using for the other power source?

I assume you mean the 5 amp in line fuse wire that is going to "+" on the flasher to battery? Mine is hooked up to the ignition switch to the flasher. That way the key has to be on for the turn signals to go on.

With the stop lamp switch. If you hook up all your directional signals to this switch it will power up the bright lights on the rear lamps when it senses power from the stop lamp switch, or when the brakes are applied.

This is how I wired mine. One side of the stop lamp switch to battery power and the other side I spliced the wire to the turn signal switch and a wire that ran directly back to the center stop light. All three rear lamps will light bright when brake pedal is pressed. Plus if you have your turn signal on it will flash on that side and not stay on all the time as the turn signal switch will take car of that. Center lamp will stay on as long as brakes are applied when wired this way.

Posted
Good questions, Jim. I'll have to think about it for a while, as it's been

some time since I hooked them up. May need to go out to the garage

and look on the car. Can't recall that there is any sort of relay in

the system. I do know my parking lights are currently hooked up as

turn signals only, since I didn't want to go to the trouble of putting in

two contact bases. Have to get ready to attend and play music for

a Valentines dance at the Elks Lodge.....so it will be tomorrow before I

can expand on my answer.

I hooked my park lamps as turn signals only too Bob. Was much easier that way.

Posted

Yes the 5amp fuse wire is going too the Ignition. (there are 2 factory red wires going too the stop switch, they came out of the harness,I can only assume they followed the factory wiring diagram, 1 to tail and 1 to light swich) I was going to spice the red from the directional signal to one on the stop switch as it looks like there was a wire splice into one of those wires,

Does this seem right ? I will not be able to test for awhile as I am still repairing wiring harness that goes to the front. and redoing the horn wiring.

Posted

if you go to the tail light king web site he has 2 wiring schematics posted that are typical for 5 wire or 7 wire. The center brake lamp is the wild card in the mix. It depends if you wan to run the lamp and or have brakes in the out board lamps also. You can wire the signals like the schematics powered from the brake lamp switch. then run a seperate wire from the switch to he center brake lamp to retain it as a brake only lamp. The signal wireing will make the outboards brake/signal lamps as well as running lamp. You will end up with three brake lamps, which in this day and age of cell phone talking tailgaters is not a bad thing.

A5007R%20Wiring.jpg

Posted

Thanks I'll follow the A5007R diagram, I made a note to test the brake switch wires (when I power up) to see what one has power,then i'll splice in the red direction wire to the other wire that shoud be going to the trunk lights.

Posted

Looks as if there have been some good answers on the turn signal install

since I looked yesterday. I think I would run completely new wires for the

signals, as opposed to trying to use something already there which you're

not sure of. That might add to the confusion if a problem occurs. Also

I think none of the diagrams presented involved a relay. One other thing

I might mention is---when I installed my signals, I had two different brands

of the silver flasher cannisters. I used one, signals blinked real slow. Switched to the

second one, signals flashed more rapidly. Apparently

all flashers do not work exactly the same.

Posted

I got out to the tent today and traced all the wires again, and marked them I'll hook them up if the weather holds out. I put a 535 MAPA Flasher 6 volt 3 prong on I just have to change some wires that they had used because they cut out the directional switch before I got it. If I everget done I post it. Thanks everone Jim PS while I was tracing I found holes in the exhaust, and a kink in the rear brake tubing. Never ends

Posted
. One other thing

I might mention is---when I installed my signals, I had two different brands of the silver flasher cannisters. I used one, signals blinked real slow. Switched to the second one, signals flashed more rapidly. Apparently all flashers do not work exactly the same.

When I installed signals in my truck the turn indicator on the column wouldn't work even with a ground wire directly attached to the column brace. A new flasher cured that

Posted

Jim, now that you have a handle on the flasher installation......I'll add

this little tidbit that I did. I bought the cheapie $20 chrome plated

turn signal unit seen in the picture. There is a green plastic end on the

handle that has a bulb behind it and blinks to say your lights are

flashing during a turn. However it has never worked on mine (I found

out later I need an additional ground of the housing).......so I invented

my own indicator lights. If you look to the left, just below the dash you

can see two red lights side by side.

I bought those lights at a swap meet fairly cheap. Made a holder to keep

them side by side, covered the works with aluminum foil. Then ran a wire

from each, and tapped into the left tail light wire and right tail light wire.

Thereby, the right blinks for right turn, left for left. Would have liked a

better holder for the lights.....but this one works for now.

These indicator lights could be placed anyplace a person desires....I just

thought this was good for my case. I don't know which signal unit you

have, but it probably already has a workable indicator light built in.

I plan on replacing my chrome cheapie (which has developed an internal

problem) with a better grade switch.....so probably will not need the

auxiliary indicators with that.

The reason for wanting visible indicator lights is -- since my turn signal

is manual......does not self cancel......I have been known to drive for

quite a way with my turn signal blinking. Just like grandpa. :eek:

(Come to think of it---i am a grandpa.)

9b5d8395.jpg

100_1493.jpg

Posted

Bob your new switch is a good one. Thats what I have. I need to dig out my turn signal project for the coupe and get busy on that. Factory signals are turning out to be a pain :)

Posted

Yes, Ed, it seems that the newer 7 wire flashers are easier to work with

than the older style 5 wire. I just have to make a strap to go around the

steering column - the original one was missing. They have a sort of "J"

hook on the end that goes under the parts with a screw. Then you tighten

down the screws to pull the strap snug around the column.

Posted

Very familiar with it. It took me a couple tries before it was tight enough that it didn't move with operation.

Posted

I am wondering what would effect the flasher speed. Would higher amperage or higher voltage cause a flasher to blink quicker? For some reason, I am thinking a flasher with say 12v, but lower amperage, would flash brighter but slower. Any thoughts?

Posted

A thermal flasher unit will flash faster if there is more load (amperage) through it because the thermal switch in side will heat up faster with the higher load. Your idea of using a 12v flasher unit is interesting, but I don't think it'll work because 6 volts may not be enough to heat up the thermal piece inside to pull in the contacts. see http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal2.htm

Bob, I feel your pain on leaving the signals on. I did that many times when I first got my truck out and about. I then found a small beeper (I actually had it in my desk drawer from something) that worked on 3 - 30 volts. I wired it up to the flasher so that it beeps with the turn signals. Now it's hard to ignore the beeping when the signals are on.

Also, on my Signal Stat 900 switch, the mounting clamp was missing. I fabricated a "horseshoe" shapped strap that went around the steering column and attached with the original screws on the signal switch. It may not look perfect, but it works fine.

Merle

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