Protecting parts, engine mounts, linkages, mountings, etc

[pflaming]

What is the most / more acceptable method of protecting structural parts. For example, I cleaned up the triangular front motor mount today, it like other parts are 'crusted' with years of dirt, heat, oil, ect and I find it easiest to use a steel brush wheel on my drill motor. So, now: rust primer and engine paint; or leave (they may not have been painted when new) as cleaned; or ______. You all know I am just doing a fairly thorough clean restore, but I don't want my truck to look foolish either. At present I am thinking of coating these parts with a rust inhibiting primer then use semi-gloss black paint, the kind used on engines to take heat @ 500 degrees.

Worked on the firewall today. I used the above method. Was going to leave it 'as found' but just looked terrible. Will add a plate over the heater area to cover all THOSE holes. I hope the primer / paint method I used is OK. Sort of late to ask.

As soon as my motor mounts arrive, will reinstall the engine and see if it will start, good weekend project. With the clutch and brake pedals removed it is easy to put it back in and a lot safer. Lost a friend a year ago, because he took a short cut and the car fell!!!!!

Paul

[SteveMelchiorre]

I asked a similar question a few months back....

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=10541

Steve...

[pflaming]

When I take off the 'road oil' I do not see paint. I see metal, not shiny but not paint. If this is left, is that an acceptable cleaning? That is my question.

[grey beard]

Paul,

Several years ago, when I began my Pilothouse project, I was reading the archives from this forum and learned of a paint called Zero Rust from our web master, GTK. Bought a gallon and still have some left. This stuff wants the metal to be free from loose rust and grease, but otherwise will stick to whatever it gets put onto. I used it on all my exposed metal parts and am very pleased with the way it covers, adheres and looks when dry.

It can be brushed, rolled or sprayed, and can be thinned or cleaned up with lacquer thinner. (Sound like a salesman, don't I?) I have used POR 15 and do not like it. Zero Rust costs less than half the price of POR, cleans up easier, and is much more user friendly. I think it beats the POR for adhesion, and unlike other rust paints, can be left as it is for a finish coat on engine and chassis parrs, etc. I used black and one coat does it all - no need to top coat it unless you want another color. Check it out at $52 a galllon and free shipping.

http://www.zero-rust.com/?referrer=google&gclid=CK3z7OL_upcCFQv7agodBw2OTQ

Cut and paste that long address into your address bar and see what you think. Works especially well on rusty door cavities and frame rails where you can't get the wire brush or scraper in there. I used it for my entire cab floor inerior and exterior, etc.

[Frank Elder]

Paul I like your creativity, most throw a quickie paint on the outside and leave the engine compartment looking"ORIGINAL".

Gotta say the idea of a survivor paint job with an immaculate underhood area is very appealing.

Frankie

[pflaming]

Frankie, not my idea. My son has a very nice early '55 Chevy in Maine. He put a striking red paint job on it, professional with three coats of clear! The first local show "get together" he went to they wanted to see the engine. He had done NOTHING under the hood. You know what he did next.

So, my conclusion is: Maco and others can do a quick or professional outside, but no one can do a survivor outside. This truck has an interesting exterior, so I want to have a striking under the hood, for me and for the 'more curious'. I'll get there, just don't want to spoil the truck.

Working on non mechanical items while waiting for parts. Hubcaps today, maybe the dash next.

Foggy out here! Can't wait for the warm weather we get in Febr.