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how much should i pay for 47 coupe?


pm547100

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Needs total restore. Motor turns,has rusty floor and rear quarters.has title.This is in Wisconsin.He is asking 2500.00 My wife says to cut the top off and make a pretend convert out of it. Any help.

pete

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pete, personally i am not a total restore kind of guy. i envy those with all that talent. i don't have it or all the tools necesary. however, were i to be one in the case of this 47 coupe, i would not pay that price for the car as described. i would not go over $1000 and for that the car better be 100% complete, albeit rusty and not running. remember to add transportation costs and other expenses just to get it. i am not a fan of turning it into a permanent conv., but that is up to you and the wife. if you ever decide to sell it, you then have a limited market. good luck, dennis

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picture is worth a thousand words...and the how much..how much is it worth to you...that is the real killer...cars vary in price from location to location..as they say location is everything..next to over all condition that is...I just bought a very super solid business coupe..extremely nice with huge supply of parts to go with it..complete with a modern V8, tranny , tilt column etc etc...lets just say it was less than half of what they are asking but then I feel I got a steal on this car..that is why I moved on it...I have since sold the engine and tranny for 1/2 of what I paid or as I look at it...for the cost of traveling some 1100 miles round trip to go get it...

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Some cars are so far gone that cutting the top or shaving the trim and such is the only way to go...finding affordable trim for an entire car shoots the budget to hang and back..quickly...would hate to see a coupe go this route..but then ..could be your shot at a convertible..not that fond of these big convertibles myself..that is why everyone else owns them..lol

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Price all depends on how bad you want the car. That said, if the car is complete and not otherwise damaged, you could probably part it out for at least the $2500, maybe more. Yes, as Tim mentioned there may be better deals out there from time to time, but those times and deals are really far apart. About the only time you'll find a coupe for less is when someone is desperate to get rid of it. Floors aren't that hard or expensive to fix if you do it yourself, even if you buy the reproduction floor panels and rockers for it. Those quarter panels only go for about $35 to $40 each for reproductions too. So.........don't let that scare you away from the car if you really want it.

Of course, if you have to pay $1,000 to get it transported on top of the $2500, you could probably find another one closer for about the same price and condition, if you keep searching.

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Norm..where are you buying panels that cheap...certain company referenced here now and again..you could not get one panel for what you quoting them all to be...granted..doing your own work..fabricating repair sections to weld in..yes by and far you be ahead and get out for a very minimum amount of money....

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Hi Pete. If its any help to you,the Ply converts were made from bus. coupe bodies. The deck lid will interchange with relocation of hinges,and the doors were formed from the bus.coupe using a fair amount of lead. The cowl and windshield ,however were specially made for the convert. from the belt pinch weld up. I once bought and sold a clb coupe that someone started to make a convert out of. It wound up lookin pretty darn good,and he made a removable top that lifted on and off. Its still around and hes havin lotsa fun with it. If you parked it along a regular convert. you could really see the difference---like the deck lid and the top of the windshield,which peaks a little on all except the convert. Its flat to match to the top header bar. I think it would be a fun job to do,and you would have a bigger back seat than the convert. which is really small. One thing tho---the dash was welded to the body in the convert to give it the rigidity it didnt have from a roof structure. As to the price--Id say that if its really nice and complete ,thats okay if you like it,but he should come down a little . Frank M.

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Norm..where are you buying panels that cheap...certain company referenced here now and again..you could not get one panel for what you quoting them all to be...granted..doing your own work..fabricating repair sections to weld in..yes by and far you be ahead and get out for a very minimum amount of money....

Tim,

Got that price on the reproduction quarter panel from Gil at Gil's Body shop in Iowa. Use to be a link on the links page for them. That was sometime in the late 90's or around 2,000. But..........like you said, it's cheaper yet if you fabricate your own, and that's not hard to do either. Even his floor pans were reasonable. Think I could have bought the whole front floor board in the proper sections for about $200 at the time. I only needed minor repair though so did my own out of flat steel stock.

I did see some of Gil's work though. Jim (can't think of his last name now) from the POC and who use to write and publish the P15 Driver bought the floor sections. Several of us got together in Deerfield, Illinois and he had the floor sections in the trunk of his P15 coupe. Had just got them. High quality work. They looked just like original. Don't know if you were on the board when he was publishing the Driver but a lot of other guys should remember. By the way, haven't seen him posting for a long time either.

Guys, don't think he made parts for the D24. He had patterns for the P15 because he had restored a P15 convertible.

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Tim' date='

Got that price on the reproduction quarter panel from Gil at Gil's Body shop in Iowa. Use to be a link on the links page for them. That was sometime in the late 90's or around 2,000. But..........like you said, it's cheaper yet if you fabricate your own, and that's not hard to do either. Even his floor pans were reasonable. Think I could have bought the whole front floor board in the proper sections for about $200 at the time. I only needed minor repair though so did my own out of flat steel stock.

I did see some of Gil's work though. Jim (can't think of his last name now) from the POC and who use to write and publish the P15 Driver bought the floor sections. Several of us got together in Deerfield, Illinois and he had the floor sections in the trunk of his P15 coupe. Had just got them. High quality work. They looked just like original. Don't know if you were on the board when he was publishing the Driver but a lot of other guys should remember. By the way, haven't seen him posting for a long time either.

Guys, don't think he made parts for the D24. He had patterns for the P15 because he had restored a P15 convertible.[/quote']

Just remembered Jim's last name from the POC. Was Jim Leman (spelling). Sorry Jim if you're reading this. I'm terrible at remembering names sometime.

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Pete I paid 2400 for my coupe in MN about 3 years ago. Complete minus a couple little things and not very rusty. Junkyard car out of wyoming. Also came with reupholstered seats in gray vinyl. So from that I'd say your rustier car with no new seats is 1000-1500 range.

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Pete I paid 2400 for my coupe in MN about 3 years ago. Complete minus a couple little things and not very rusty. Junkyard car out of wyoming. Also came with reupholstered seats in gray vinyl. So from that I'd say your rustier car with no new seats is 1000-1500 range.

Ed,

Did the $2400 also count shipping charges, or your cost to go get it? If Pete did find a car for $1000 to $1500 in Wyoming he'd have to get it back to Wisconsin. That would boost the car back up to about the $2000 or $2500 mark. So.........same price as he can get it only 3 miles away. What's the difference if you pay that much for the car, or less, then add the shipping. Total cost comes out the same.

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I paid $600 for the p18 and $250 for d33.

About the only cars you'll get around here for those prices are parts cars, unless the seller really has to get rid of it right away for some reason. Even then you'd be hard pressed to find a coupe of any make or model for under $2500, and then it would be about what Pete described or worse, and the engine might not even turn.

Now, that said. No matter what we are buying, even stuff in the store. As soon as we buy what we thought was cheap, we then see that same item advertised cheaper somewhere else. I know we've all been there before.

Can Pete buy another coupe say in Wyoming, etc. cheaper for about what Ed paid at $1500. Maybe so.............but like I said, he then has to get it home and that adds about another thousand, so you're right back up to the $2500 total cost anyway. Plus, since it's only 3 miles away from him he has the advantage of looking at it in person for no cost. Can't do that with a car in some other state.

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the car is only 3 miles away.It is complete 100% and the trime is good.

Offer them $1500 in that case. It's worth $500 to not have to make a road trip to pick one up. Explain to them the cost and amount of work that will be necessary to just fix the rust problems before you offer the $1500.

Forget cutting the top off. If you do you will be sorry because it won't be long before the body flexes and you either can't get the doors to shut,or they pop open going around corners.

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....... Plus' date=' since it's only 3 miles away from him he has the advantage of looking at it in person for no cost. Can't do that with a car in some other state.[/quote']

Norm,let's not forget the value of a clear title from the state where you live. The state of NC confiscated the clear Va title of the 37 Dodge truck that I bought that had been titled in Va since 1938 because they didn't like the serial number. They made me post a $3000 bond and file all the paperwork to get a new title after having the DMV inspector come here to inspect it. I saw the paper the DMV inspector filled out to send off to the DMV that identifed it as a "rebuilt 1937 Dodge truck". When the new registration came back from the DMV with the new VIN numbers,it was identified as a "2007 homebuilt truck" It has been two years now and I still don't have a title. Yeah,I have been driving it and getting registrations for it,but I can't sell it because I don't have a title for it.

Not only that,but the last letter I got in from the DMV identified the truck by the new NCDMV VIN number,and then went on to ask me what the VIN number was,and what happened to the original title. What happened to the original title was DMV lost it.

In the next numbered request from them on the same letter they wanted to know why the seller didn't give me a good title (he did),and why I didn't contact him to get him to apply for a new title to give me. I responded with,"I can't contact him because you confiscated all the paperwork I had that had his name and address on it,and it's been a year and a half since I bought the truck."

Besides,let's face it. The guy got his money a year and a half ago and has already spent it. How much time is he going to be willing to spend applying for a new title to then mail to me? Especially since the NC DMV notified VA that they had destroyed the title because it was a bad title? Otherwise I could have just gone up to Va and applied for a new title myself.

It's been over 6 months since my last letter from the DMV on this,and my tags expire in Dec.

Like I said,don't overlook the value of a valid title from the same state you live in.

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Any time I move to a new state, I always make a photocopy of my current title in case the "hard-working civil servant" that collects my registration taxes makes an error. When I lived in Arkansas, the local DMV office interchanged the VIN w/ the title number for my P15. The "talented" lady filing the forms assumed that all VINs have letters and all titles have only numerals. What a headache getting that straightened out! I haven't needed my copies since, but I am expecting to need my copies with the move to Missouri. They couldn't even get my name and address right for my driver licence copying off my utility bill. I had to come back again to get it straightened out. I might even have the copies notarised this time before going into the DMV to confirm that the copy matches the original.

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