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Found 9 results

  1. Hello! We are restorating a Plymouth Deluxe Business Coupe (P-15). The car has been shipped over the ocean from USA to Europe lately. We started the project this summer. This is how it looked like when we got the project into work: Originally this car had no back seat but someone has put a random seat there instead. Not very quality work: Now this is where we need your help a little, people. As the bulkhead is totally removed we don't even have an example of it. If someone has a decent bulkhead for sale maybe we can make a trade. If not maybe someone of you is able to make some proper pictures or drawings of the bulkhead of a business coupe. We would be really appreciated: At first when we looked at the car it didn't seem to be in very bad condition but when we stripped it apart it was seen that the floor was almost gone. The floor was "repaired" with galvanized roofing sheets. There was lots of them on one another. There were also a lot of newspaper named Quad-City Times from the year 1985 inside the "sideboxes" (sorry for my english): In fact the floor's condition was so bad that before we could lift the body from the frame and sandblast the car we had to change the "sideboxes" and most of the floor first. The sandblasting would vanish the remains into the air and we wouldn't have any example in front of us later. PS! If you have any questions or suggestions please let us know. Regards, Leevi
  2. Hey all, My P19 fastback was "barn fresh" when I got it last week, and I've been going gangbusters ever since figuring out all of it's secrets, one of which (not really a secret actually) was that it had been turned into a mouse luxury liner. I have removed all of the seats, carpeting/vinyl on the floor, and have sprayed the entire car and trunk out with a hose after using a mild degreaser. The headliner and door skins under the rear window remain, and I'm sure have absorbed some odor too. Anyway, the car still stinks. How do I get rid of the urine smell? I can tell that even the steel retained some of the odor. Also, what's the best way to remove the headliner without irreparably damaging anything? My goal is to get this thing mechanically sound for the road this summer, drive it around, then begin body/underbody repair in the winter. I'm wondering about Simple Green, Nature's Remedy, or straight bleach for the urine smell. Thoughts? Also thinking of trying to have the seats extracted at a detail shop so they are usable and bearable for the summer. Thanks to all for replies!
  3. The new Nov. 2015 issue of Hemmings Classic Car features a restoration of a '48 D24 Business Coupe. It is quite an ambitious body off the frame restoration. The report is to show the completion of the work next month.
  4. I'm currently trying to get a 51 b series going and all I need to do is hook up the cables from the battery to the starter(foot starter), but all there is, is a spot right in front of the lever I'm assuming for the positive. Am I correct on this? Second I don't have the key for the ignition and I was wondering if I could cut the wires and install a toggle switch? Any answers appreciated
  5. Good morning all, this is going to be my restoration album for any and all work I do to my 1940 Dodge D14 De-luxe (or deluxe, it varies based on what old brochure you're looking at). I'm really thinking about naming the car Mary Jane after my late grandma, who never wanted anything more than to ride in it before she passed. I'll always regret that I couldn't do that for her but I'll dedicate my work to her memory instead. Just so everyone knows, this will be the first attempt at something of this scale and complexity in my entire life so I'm sure I'll be asking for a lot of help on it. But if you want to stay and read through goof ups or are thinking about the same thing yourself and want some ideas, I'll say my purpose in posting is complete. One thing I really want to do is to break this down as intelligently as possible so here's what I'm thinking: 1. Do work in zones. Electrical, fuel delivery, transmission, engine, oil system, brakes and wheels, interior,body, paint. Fully completing one and then moving on to the next 2. Then break down each zone into its own checkpoints. E.g for electrical, wiring the brake lights, converting to 12v (if I do), etc 3. Keeping everything organized. If you have any tips like special bins for parts or anything feel free to throw those at me. This weekend I'll post pictures to show where I'm starting from and what my garage looks like and then we'll let the fun begin.
  6. Good evening Gentlemen (well it is here where I'm writing from!) I'm Stanley and I have, in a moment of madnesss, bought a car from ebay when it failed to reach it's reserve, and I had no knowledge of the marque or anything about it mechanically. I have purchased, what I think to be, a 1950 Plymouth super deluxe. Its a runner (just about) and seems quite intact. I know nothing about the car - not even how the gearshift works as the previous owner is deceased and there is no paperwork. Im based here in Bristol in the UK and the car is right hand drive, but marked up as a Dodge. What would really help would be someone to tell me how to start it correctly (as it turns and doesn't catch, unless you put 'easy start ' down the throat of the carb), drive it - and what to look out for. Also a good source for spares would help, and if anyone knows a fellow owner her in the uk so I can call them and ask questions! Here's a couple of poor photos of when I collected it a couple of days ago.. Thanks for any help. Stanley Windrush There's only two things in life that involve no skill, laying down and spending money, everything else involves some sort of intelligence.
  7. I have been working on my 1941 P12 for the past several years. I always looked at the restoration process as my hobby, not having the car finished or driving it. However, I want to have it completed for the summer meet in California. The restoration itself is about 85% complete. I mainly need to get everything assembled again. I am going to post a weekly update on my progress on my YouTube channel. Take a look if you are interested. If you subscribe to the channel, you will get a notice when a new video is posted. Please comment on the video and let me know what part of the project you want me to talk about or ask questions. I will give answers in my videos. Here is a link to the first video. I have been a member of the Plymouth fourm for a number of years. I am new to the p15-d24 forum. Looks like a good place for information. Mark
  8. I'm currently rebuilding my B-4-B's power plant and restoring the engine compartment close to factory condition as part of the project. Does anybody know which brand of paint most closely matches the silver engine color? Also, I wanted to get your input on the correct factory paint colors for the following items...I've taken a guess for each part: Air Cleaner: Semi-gloss black Bellhousing: Silver Bellhousing Pan: Gloss Black (?) Breather Cap: Semi-gloss Black Breather Tube: Silver Draft Tube: Semi-gloss Black Engine Block: Silver Fan: Semi-gloss Black Frame: Flat black (?) Front Motor Mount to Frame Bracket: Semi-gloss black Front Motor Mount to Engine Bracket: Silver Generator: Semi-gloss Black Inner Fenders: Semi-gloss Black Intake Manifold: Silver Master Cylinder: Natural Cast Iron Oil Filter: Semi-gloss Black Oil Pan: Silver or gloss black (?) Pulley, Water Pump: Semi-gloss Black Pulley, Crankshaft: Silver Radiator: Gloss black (?) Radiator Core Support: Semi-gloss Black Starter: Semi-gloss Black Steering Box: Natural Cast Iron Timing Cover: Silver Transmission: Silver Upper Radiator/Grill Shell Filler Panel: Semi-gloss Black Water Pump: Silver
  9. Hello! I just got a 1947 Plymouth special deluxe club coupe that I want to restore. It has a really clean body, all the rust, except for a tiny spot under the driver door, is surface rust. It still has the flathead and tranny in it too. Only thing is it's been sitting in a field for like 30 years and the motor might be rust-seized. Any tips for dealing with this? Thanks.
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