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Found 5 results

  1. After my change in plans from running a rebuilt Chrysler 360 in my '52 Suburban to a stock rebuilt 230, I was left with a number of holes in the firewall (that I had made) to help the V8 to fit. My friend Ryan Ballis, who does mobile welding for his livelihood, was able to use TIG to patch them up. We cut the identical firewall section from my parts wagon and he trimmed it to fit then stitched it up. TIG is much different from MIG in that it's quiet (no bacon frying) and slower. The shielding gas is pure argon, and there is no wire feed from the tool, you manually feed it in with your left hand. TIG, which stands for Tungsten Inert Gas, uses a thin pointed tungsten stylus. It's preferred for body panel and sheet metal repairs because of it's lower heat that won't blow through the metal, like MIG can. Very interesting watching Ryan's technique as we could hold a discussion while he worked.
  2. I am restoring a 1948 Dodge D24 and have a firewall plate that is blank (after being cleaned). I want to know what information would be on this plate, so I can recreate it. The upper plate in the photo (not yet attached to the firewall) is the one I would like to put some information on (rather that just being a 'plain' metal plate). The lower plate is the serial number. I actually think that both of these would be black - is that correct? Should I paint these black and then have the engraved serial number on the one plate and 'some information' printed in white or silver on the other plate.
  3. Wanted to share the path we went down in trying to save the original Pressboard type Inner Firewall Cover from our P15 project. Ours was looking pretty sad and had a few areas on the drivers side that were missing. What I found available as a direct fit replacement looked either cheap (stapled together) or one that looked pretty descent, (was at least a molded piece) but was close to $300. I've got $50 in the following repair to our firewall cover and thought I'd like to share this here on the forum. I also applied the same method to my other cardboard/pressboard kick panels and heater side panel ducts with consistent results. Loctite 2 part epoxy, 1/8th inch pressboard/chipboard material (I purchased a new 12" x 16" piece off ebay for $3 dollars - delivered), 4 cans of Plasti-Dip flat black, and 1 can of Plasti-Dip Glossifier with Fade Buster (depending on where you get it, Lowes versus a smaller hdw. store like Ace, ea. can costs around $6-7 dollars). I used masking tape on the areas that were frayed (like the edges of the openings of the cover), to make form walls to hold the Loctite 2 part epoxy in place while it cured. larger spots I took a very small amount of fiberglass matt, cut it up with scissors, and mixed it in with the epoxy for strength). I used the new 1/8 " chipboard to make new pieces to replace areas that were missing, and applied the same process we used in doing fiberglass repair. Which is as follows: there's much less strength in attaching two sections with a square 90 degree angle, you just don't get enough glued surface area contact to allow for strength, but overlap the two pieces and mate them together by shaping each piece with an overlapping taper (so one piece rests upon the other piece ) and you gain strength. The rule of thumb we used doing fiberglass repair was to make your tapered surface area where your going to glue things back together, equal to the new surface area you area attaching. Never had one fail that way. I've attached some pics we took along the way, that show the firewall cover from the day we removed, then mid stream epoxy and chipboard repairs, and then this past week when they got Plasti-Dipped. Pretty straight forward easy. Like with all this kind of stuff, being clean is critical. I used brake parts cleaner to clean areas before glueing, and also before applying the Plasti Dip. I like the brake parts cleaner as it leaves no residue and dries away quickly. (This was all a "what have we got to lose kinda thing", but our bonds seem strong and we had no sings of contamination when applying epoxy or the Plasti Dip). The information is not found on the cans, but if you go read their tech sheet found on the internet, the plasti dip shows a temp range of -30f to 200 f, good chemical resistance (however petroleums are shown as limited), which I didn't think should be a big problem inside the car, and a life of 7-10 years (outside in the weather) with the UF coating applied. I really liked the flat black of the Plasti Dip (before the uv top coat was added which also gives it the gloss) a little better than the gloss finish, and debated on whether the sun could get to the very bottom of the Cover enough to warrant using the UV top coat, but decided to go that route for a bit more assurance in regards to longevity. Course once the epoxy repairs set up, you've got a bit of easy sanding to do...and before applying the Plasti Dip I went over the entire panels with a red scotch brite pad and brake parts cleaner..to promote adhesion. Fun stuff..whether it's sanding a part and painting it, or something like this,...I really enjoy trying to make these old forgotten, neglected parts look like something again. Steve'o
  4. From the album: 49 P15C off frame restomod

    Painted the firewall so I could install the motor and trans before the body shop gets the car.
  5. A little help please. My " before " photos missed this piece before removal. I've been working on the firewall / engine compartment area. Can someone tell me ( photo helpful) where this belongs ? Appreciate and / all help. Thanks ! Clay
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