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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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so i have my old 1950 dodge b2c and im rebuilding my engine well making it look new again and painting it and cleaning it in the process i am pulling everything apart cleaning and painting things when i took off my distributor i realized that my Vacuum advance on the distributor isnt working i pulled it off and sucked on it surely enough nothing happened and i already rebuilt my distributor and dont feel like buying a whole new one were can i get this part? i went to 3 [parts stores and they had nothing. im hoping this will fix my trucks running issues thank you ! ill [post before and after pics of my engine later for all you interested it looks beautiful for only spending 200 dollars spiffing it up and some elbow grease -
so i have this 1949 dodge parts truck its axle is different from my 1950 dodge b2c my dad and i realize the thing is a pain in the ass to push and turn and he asked me if there was a way to check what rear end this may have he thinks its a spicer. does anyone know if that was a factory option back in 1949?? he said it could make the value go up a few hundred or keep it to put in my original truck. any help would be great and if you have a 1949 4 speed truck could you show me a pic of your rear axles? if its any chance that a spicer would be on there that would be great!!
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Hi everyone Im new to this forum. Im 17 and have been building my dodge truck since I was 12, ive done all the work myself and payed for it. Its been a dream working on it and i now own two of them (parts truck and original) but heres my problem my shop manual has one firing order, that when i turn the engine over knowing theres spark (ive rebuilt carb. new spark plugs, etc shes all new.) it does nothing once in a while like for a half hour of cranking it pops very slightly but wont start. so i test the spark .25 inch gab of spark then i try the firing order at 153624 and all i get is a ton of back firing and popping and stuff it ran once about 2 years ago and i havent changed a thing it didnt run to well and everything is right ive checked it a good 40 times. it fires but like its timing is off and so i adjust it and get nothing.... ive been stalled for 2 years because it wont come to life.. and i need help this truck is perfect all except it doesnt run. i need some help from people who actually have worked with this specific engine. 218ci l6 thank you for any help or tips you can give me.
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I saw this paint scheme on the H.A.M.B. Very nice!
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I thought I'd find this in the tech archives, or under resources, but can only find that it takes 5qt/4.7 litres oil... but not what type. Nice sale on for a 5 litre jug of Quaker State (40% off) 5w30, 10w30 and 5w20... was going to buy a couple of the 5w30 for my Chev Impala, thought I'd grab some for the '47 Dodge as well, since the oil has been in there probably 20-30yrs. Just not sure what kind it takes. Figured when comes time to fire it up and see if it turns over, probably best to have new oil/filter.
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Need the weight of '48 B1B flathead 6 engine without transmission. I need to ship it with a moving company and they want the weight to calculate the charges. Does anyone know how much it weighs? thanks, Chris
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I'm currently rebuilding my B-4-B's power plant and restoring the engine compartment close to factory condition as part of the project. Does anybody know which brand of paint most closely matches the silver engine color? Also, I wanted to get your input on the correct factory paint colors for the following items...I've taken a guess for each part: Air Cleaner: Semi-gloss black Bellhousing: Silver Bellhousing Pan: Gloss Black (?) Breather Cap: Semi-gloss Black Breather Tube: Silver Draft Tube: Semi-gloss Black Engine Block: Silver Fan: Semi-gloss Black Frame: Flat black (?) Front Motor Mount to Frame Bracket: Semi-gloss black Front Motor Mount to Engine Bracket: Silver Generator: Semi-gloss Black Inner Fenders: Semi-gloss Black Intake Manifold: Silver Master Cylinder: Natural Cast Iron Oil Filter: Semi-gloss Black Oil Pan: Silver or gloss black (?) Pulley, Water Pump: Semi-gloss Black Pulley, Crankshaft: Silver Radiator: Gloss black (?) Radiator Core Support: Semi-gloss Black Starter: Semi-gloss Black Steering Box: Natural Cast Iron Timing Cover: Silver Transmission: Silver Upper Radiator/Grill Shell Filler Panel: Semi-gloss Black Water Pump: Silver
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Hi all, I'm new here to the forum and thought I might as well dive in. I've got a 48 4-door deluxe that my husband and I are hoping to restore. We're trying to figure out what we are working with and hoped that you all could answer a question about the engine number. What we have found stamped on the engine block does not match any other numbers for a typical flathead 6 that I have seen mentioned, so any ideas about what it means would be great. Here's the number as I read it: WN5401237952 It might be possible that the N is actually a second W, not sure. These are pictures of the stamp itself in case anyone want to see. If anyone has any clues, I'd love to hear them. Thanks.
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Well, after 7 months, I finally finished the the 230 rebuild project. I did a complete mockup on the crate before putting her back in the truck. More pics to come as the job progresses...
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ok, so i am working on this 41' dodge truck in the woods, as i have been for the last couple years, and NOTHING on the truck has moved but the doors for the last 30 years. i pulled the head to see how badly the cylinders were rusted (not very bad) and while i was at it, i dumped some 2-stroke oil in the cylinders in hopes it would help free it up. i checked the engine oil on the dipstick, and it looked like the normal 30-year-old oil looks, kind of brown and dirty. i came back about a month later to check on it and pull the head again to dump in some better lube, and checked the oil to see if any 2-stroke oil made it that far, but there was some milky white fluid towards the bottom that wasn't there before. it would make no sense to be water or antifreeze because neither mix with oil when just sitting and they would have just settled to the bottom. what could it be? the 2-stroke oil was blue, and the crankcase oil was still the same brown sitting on top. keep in mind, the motor was stuck, so nothing could have mixed.
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Well, after 4 months, I finally got my block and other engine parts back from the machine shop. They ground the mains .040" under and supplied me with matching bearing shells. I used the plastigage method to check the clearance, and they all measure .001", right in the middle of the specs (.0005" - .0015"). When the caps are bolted on snug, not even torqued down, turning the crank in the block is very difficult. I have to put a pipe wrench on the front snout bolt and use a 4' long cheater bar to get it to turn (with one foot on the engine stand). Even with this effort, its only a few degrees at a time. With the caps torqued it's pretty much impossible. The addition of rods and pistons won't help, either. I'm worried if I continue with assembly and get the engine back in the truck, then try to start it, it won't turn over. Should I take the crank back to the shop or count on my 6 volt starter to wind up this baby?
