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  1. I'm the recent owner of a 1951 Dodge B3B and I had it up and running great until a few weeks ago. Among other issues, the starter stopped working. My mechanic took it out and sent it over to a local rebuilder who eyeballed it from across the room as a Dodge truck starter. Long story short, the armature is broken and it doesn't seem like anybody makes a replacement starter for these trucks. Does anybody have a line on where to find one (new or used, at this point I don't care)? Or of there's any kind of adapter to use a different starter or something like that I'm open to any and all solutions. The truck does have the original 218ci motor. It has been converted to 12V negative ground but the entire truck was professionally rewired, including starter cables. The original starter was working fine until this happened and it used to start the truck great with the extra umph of the 12V battery.
  2. Here is Delores, My '49 Dodge Wayfarer Business Coupe. La Plata blue, original and unrestored. Lives in England.
  3. I've looked everywhere (on the forum and search engines) looking for a correct or even close modern match for the metallic gold paint for 1949-50 Dodge Coronet Gyro-Matic fender script. The original is a satin or flat metallic gold with red "Gyro-Matic" inlay - See photo of a NOS example for reference. I can match the red inlay close enough, but the I haven't been able to find a close match for the satin or flat metallic gold paint. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. I am really just starting out on my restoration project for a 1952 Dodge B-3-B 108 218ci 3.6L high-side pickup with a three speed manual on the column. The pickup was produced in Detroit on 18 April 1952 according to the Build Card I received from the Chrysler Corp Historical archives. My plan now is to identify the problem areas and take photos of everything from multiple angles. So far I have found the following: (NOTE: updated 17 Dec 2014) Engine does run. I need to repair the fuel tank that has one small puncture hole, with light rust inside and outside the tank, and replace the entire fuel line. The fuel gauge does not work or it is my fuel tank sending unit, which has an unusual locking mechanism, that is not working correctly. REMU guys said the tank is shot and need a new one. Fuel sending unit was shot so that only leaves the fuel guage that works as far as I can tell. The transmission shifts easily from the 1st thru 3rd gear. However, the transmission does not currently shift into reverse. Brakes are currently inoperative. Plan on putting disk brakes on the front. Break lines are rusted through in several areas and a small 5 inch section of the left rear break line is actually broken off. So like many here of course completely new break lines will go in as well. Cab floor is totally rusted out and I have replacement floor pans that will be welded in as well as bolting on new Toe board panel(s) for just above the floor pans. The CAB will be the biggest challenge as far as body work goes. The frame is straight with the exception of the last six inches on both sides of the rear end. Apparently the previous owner backed up and the spare tire carrier under the bed got caught up resulting in damage shown in the frame photo. All wiring is original and needs to be totally replaced. This fall and winter is the break down period and get replacement parts as needed while conducting some minor repairs. Spring and summer of 2015 is where most of the major work will start to be accomplished.
  5. Hi everybody, I just want to say hello. It's great to have a platform like this. I bought my 1942 Dodge D22 Custom Coupe one and a half year ago in Texas and brought it to Germany. It was last licensed in California 1957. 1973 the last owner wanted to restore it and insatlled a ne interior, new tires and gave it a paint job, but as I know, it was most of the time kept in a garage. There wasn't much to do to get it back on the street. I just installed a new wiring harness, new brake cylinders and tires and some little things and enjoyed the first summer. This winter I will get a look at the transmission and engine, and perhaps I try to fix the interior, because the 70s style fabric is really creepy ;-) Here's a little video of the car and the "restoration" Have fun: Kai
  6. Hi everyone, first post here. Great looking site with great information. I am hoping someone can help me with a query I have. My family has what is almost certainly a Canadian built D15 and I am looking to decipher the data plate on the firewall. I know information is sketchy at best...especially for Canadian built cars, but any help is greatly appreciated! The tag reads: D15 2DR SED 1317 1559 AKF 1317 is the body number, correct? As in the number of the D15 body that rolled down the line? Does anyone know what 1559 paint code or AKF trim code is? The car was owned for roughly 40 years by the same owner before he passed away and we purchased from his family last year. The car was clearly cared for and driven often, and will continue to be loved and driven. Luckily he had stored away A TON of spare parts and Canadian specific manuals. None of the manuals have been too much help with colour/ option information or history unfortunately. Thanks for your help! Dean
  7. MXTMOPR

    1953 1 ton Dodge

    Work in progress. Cummins turbo diesel 1 ton, 2 wheel drive chassis. 5 speed trans. Big Mopar truck front fender flares, stretched front fenders 12" to fit intercooler. Cab sectioned over frame 4". Top chopped 3". Running boards lowered 2". Front frame modified to lower radiator and intercooler to fit within the 53 sheetmetal. Doing a little at a time by myself in my own shop.
  8. My Dad's Wayfarer. 318/904, A/C, 7.25 rear axle. All Mopar of course. Driven from PA to Florida for the Mopars with Big Daddy show in Ocala.
  9. Harley tail lights, Plymouth trunk handle and brake lamp, hand formed frenched license plate box. 2" Lowering blocks, Ford gas tank fits between frame rails very nicely if you want to delete the vertical spare tire mount in the trunk.
  10. MXTMOPR

    1949 Wayfarer Business Coupe

    Hand built in my shop. Mopar 318/904, A/C, Suregrip rear. Driven from Florida to Pennsylvania several times a year. A good runner, very dependable and gets 22 mpg with the air on.
  11. So i have my old dodge truck, when i got it the windows in the doors were busted and the weather stripping and whatever was supposed to be in the door to seal the windows and guide them was stripped, i found a website to get parts but i dont know if they are the rite parts and if i can find them any cheaper somewhere else.. this is my first restoration and lets just say i know a ton about this truck but i dont know a lot about the little things on it. its the pilothouse 3 window cab and the doors have the vent window in them so could someone give me a hint on what parts id need for the windows to seal and roll up and down like new? i dont have any parts to reference so im basically starting from scratch. any help would be much appreciated and ill have to post some pics of it now and when i first got it. i started this project as a 6th grader and i am now a senior and entered it in its first car show as of last night! super excited!
  12. Does anyone have the clip that joins the windshield trim. They would be wulling to sell or point me in the right direction to get one
  13. I am serarching for a post. A while back there was a posting of a member who's father built a Mid 40's Plymouth and they used a MBZ 300d engine and they drove it to Alaska and back..but I can't seem to find the posting. Does anyone else remember or have earmarked the thread so they can pass it on to me. thanks
  14. so i have my old 1950 dodge b2c and im rebuilding my engine well making it look new again and painting it and cleaning it in the process i am pulling everything apart cleaning and painting things when i took off my distributor i realized that my Vacuum advance on the distributor isnt working i pulled it off and sucked on it surely enough nothing happened and i already rebuilt my distributor and dont feel like buying a whole new one were can i get this part? i went to 3 [parts stores and they had nothing. im hoping this will fix my trucks running issues thank you ! ill [post before and after pics of my engine later for all you interested it looks beautiful for only spending 200 dollars spiffing it up and some elbow grease
  15. so i have this 1949 dodge parts truck its axle is different from my 1950 dodge b2c my dad and i realize the thing is a pain in the ass to push and turn and he asked me if there was a way to check what rear end this may have he thinks its a spicer. does anyone know if that was a factory option back in 1949?? he said it could make the value go up a few hundred or keep it to put in my original truck. any help would be great and if you have a 1949 4 speed truck could you show me a pic of your rear axles? if its any chance that a spicer would be on there that would be great!!
  16. hey guys i decided to start a new subject my old one is kinda dead now. so as you all know i have a 1950 b2c with the 218 l 6. i finally got it to run rebuilt the carb today and it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes but still ik it will run once its really hooked up. but now that i have an exhaust system installed on it somewhat. its more quiet at the engine and i have noticed two things. crankshaft pully wobbles a lot. and theres a ticking coming from inside the valve train. so i started the engine and ran it and the weird thing is none of the lifters are stuck they all move freely with the engine running i was actually able to spin the lifters with my fingers they seemed to spin pretty freely is that what the should do and i dont know if the engine is supposed to do that i mean its a 1950 im sure the lifters werent dead silent but any help would be greatly appreciated. all valves open and close i dont have the tools to adjust them and not exactly able to run it long enough to get the engine to temperature. so if they are supposed to spin freely like that when the engine is running what could be making the ticking? i used an oil gun and sprayed thick oil on the lifters and it didnt silence the ticking at all they look like they are getting lubricated. ive been having oil passage problems so im scared to run the engine to long i dont want to break it. basically my oil gauge reads 40-50 and when i unplug that line it spurts oil but when i unhook the line to my oil filter the return and the supply nthing comes out of those two lines so i dont know if just that passage is clogged or something else is. you see if this was an earlier engine the info would be available but like my dad said it being a 1950 and a chrysler we just dont know too much about it. so if you could give me info and tips on how to chase the tick and adjust my valves and just any info you can really. i need every ounce of knowledge i can get!!! thank you all so much ill try and get a video of it maybe and post it or post it on my youtube so you can watch and listen also my enghine has some pretty bad sludge whats a good additive to remove all that??
  17. Hi everyone Im new to this forum. Im 17 and have been building my dodge truck since I was 12, ive done all the work myself and payed for it. Its been a dream working on it and i now own two of them (parts truck and original) but heres my problem my shop manual has one firing order, that when i turn the engine over knowing theres spark (ive rebuilt carb. new spark plugs, etc shes all new.) it does nothing once in a while like for a half hour of cranking it pops very slightly but wont start. so i test the spark .25 inch gab of spark then i try the firing order at 153624 and all i get is a ton of back firing and popping and stuff it ran once about 2 years ago and i havent changed a thing it didnt run to well and everything is right ive checked it a good 40 times. it fires but like its timing is off and so i adjust it and get nothing.... ive been stalled for 2 years because it wont come to life.. and i need help this truck is perfect all except it doesnt run. i need some help from people who actually have worked with this specific engine. 218ci l6 thank you for any help or tips you can give me.
  18. Good morning all, this is going to be my restoration album for any and all work I do to my 1940 Dodge D14 De-luxe (or deluxe, it varies based on what old brochure you're looking at). I'm really thinking about naming the car Mary Jane after my late grandma, who never wanted anything more than to ride in it before she passed. I'll always regret that I couldn't do that for her but I'll dedicate my work to her memory instead. Just so everyone knows, this will be the first attempt at something of this scale and complexity in my entire life so I'm sure I'll be asking for a lot of help on it. But if you want to stay and read through goof ups or are thinking about the same thing yourself and want some ideas, I'll say my purpose in posting is complete. One thing I really want to do is to break this down as intelligently as possible so here's what I'm thinking: 1. Do work in zones. Electrical, fuel delivery, transmission, engine, oil system, brakes and wheels, interior,body, paint. Fully completing one and then moving on to the next 2. Then break down each zone into its own checkpoints. E.g for electrical, wiring the brake lights, converting to 12v (if I do), etc 3. Keeping everything organized. If you have any tips like special bins for parts or anything feel free to throw those at me. This weekend I'll post pictures to show where I'm starting from and what my garage looks like and then we'll let the fun begin.
  19. I am interested to find out what motor oil you guys are putting in your Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth Flathead P15-D24 engine and why. What's your favorite Brand of motor oil for your old Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Flathead 6 motor and why? Brand: SAE: Why: Thanks, LFT
  20. Ok hi chaps, time to introduce myself due to the impending arrival of my ( by far) biggest project to date. I´m sig..(thats what they call me) I´m british but have been living in spain for the last 20 years. ex architect turnrd furniture designer making one off contemporary stuff in steel and stainless. anyway since finding a pile of old custom car magazines in a tip when I was about 8, I´ve always been into classic car design with an edge, hidden speed and tricks with stock externals. so the problem with spain is that they don´t really have a car culture to speak of. the dictatorship until the mid 70´s meant no-one owned any interesting cars, and therefore there are very few to renovate. The sale pages are full of 2cv´s, old SEAT´s and the odd renault. most of the cool stuff is brought down from france (the citroen DS´s, the strombergs etc), but this is expensive. so unintentionally one day I looked to see what US ebay had going on and found a 1339 luxury liner sedan within 1 minute, at a price of a 2cv with papers over here! without too much thought (as is usually my case) I was in touch with the seller and we struck up a working relationship. anyway long story short, its now mine and sitting in NJ port waiting for the slowboat to barcelona. this has given me a time frame to figure out exactly what I am in for!. the floors are riotted out, and the chassis is pretty pitted but I hope saveable. body pieces are all there and the dash is ok. it has the flatty 6 in and 3 on the tree. unfortuantely the rear bumper is somewhere on a roadside between north carolina and new jersey, during the first part of the voyage now I have been informing myself and the idea of 80km/h top speed worried me so whilst looking for a rear axle change I happened across a 1988 daimler/ jaguar for 300 €!, working 3.6litre automatic leather interior etc etc.this seemed to be too good a bargain for spares so it was bought a couple of weeks ago and has since been stripped of everything and chopped up waiting the scrap man. you see , its important you all understand, that this is spain, there are no spares for a prewar dodge or a flatty. transport and import charges from the states are stupid, so I´ll be limited to using euro stock . this will be no traditional rebuild, it can´t be..besides being british, my idea of traditional is very different to the american version. I say this because of all the grief some people get when mentioning engine swaps and the like. In this case is kind of out of neccesity. I hope you all understand (if not agree!) that said, I massively respect all the original features of the car, even if they are wrecked I want to keep it as antique looking as possible to all but the inspecting professional eye. ok so you´ll be wanting to see the specimen in hand these are the pix from the seller, as obviously I havent seen the car yet
  21. From the album: B4B build info

    Found this font for Dodge lettering. http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176059

    © MPrutz 2014

  22. From the album: More of my 51'

  23. This is my "barn-find"....although I've always known where it was so I didn't find it. This is my great grandfather's truck...his name on the side along with the name of the farm. My grandma gave me this truck when I was 10 years old and this vehicle is what made me fall in love with old cars. 25 years later, I am finally at a point where I am resolved to get it running again after sitting parked in a little home-made "dodge barn" for 42 years. After a lot of time and patience, I got the seized engine unstuck by jacking up the rear wheel, turning it all the way to one side, and filling the chambers with WD-40 or whatever other penetrating oil I had on hand. Then I would turn the wheel all the way to the other side until it stuck, and did the same thing. After a few weeks of back and forth every few days, it came unstuck...even has compression. Threw a battery from my Model T on this truck yesterday to see if the starter worked, and the truck cranks over now. My next step will be to drain the old oil, WD/40 and everything else out of the system and put some new oil in, then pull her around the farm to get lubed up. The gas tank is quite rusted, visually, on the outside. No idea what it looks like inside, but I'm guessing terrible, so I have some questions. Keep in mind, this truck will not be restored or repainted to look new. It is an old farm truck so I'm not going to do much to its appearance at all, except wash it, but I want it running smooth, staying original as possible, and safe to drive. That being said, has anyone got advice on how to replace a shot gas tank in a B1B? Does anyone make reproduction tanks specifically for this truck that I'm not finding? I found this: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/prd349.htm They say with some modifications their dodge tank will fit a B1B. Has anyone used this tank? Another company? I'm just interested in your thoughts as I look at tacking the fuel system. Thanks boys!
  24. I have a starter for my '47 Dodge, was in the trunk when I bought it (maybe that's why it didn't start). Anyways... looking to bolt it back up, and realized that there are no bolts. Anyone happen to know the size/thread I'd need? Thanks.
  25. I thought I would post some pictures of my great grandpa's Dodge truck since I pulled it out of the barn. This thing has only been out in the daylight 3 times since it was parked in 1971, the year my grandpa died. Once was when I was a 10 year old kid...I asked my grandma's brother to get his Farmall over to the "Dodge shed" and pull it out so I could wash it. My uncle said "Hey you know there are stakes for the bed of that truck somewhere around here....I'll see if I can find them.." He dug around for a while and came back with all the wood. The farm in the 50's had a sawmill up and running, hence the "fire wood, slab wood, rustic slabs", and also had hundreds of goats too, hence the "Get your goat at Timber Edge Farm". The second time this truck got pulled out was about 10 years ago. The Dodge shed was right next to a massively tall sycamore tree. An impressive tree well over 100 feet high. In a pretty bad storm the top 25 feet of that tree broke off, flew over the dodge shed, and embedded itself like a 12inch diameter spike in the ground on the opposite side of the dodge shed....meaning that thing, in any less wind, would have smashed the truck to pieces. So I cleared a new space for it in the barn, chained it up, and dragged it out of its shed. 2 weeks ago, I finally got the engine unsiezed using the "jack-up-the-rear-tire" method. I didn't have a breaker bar or a lot of room to work, so I read about this method and it worked. Poured WD-40 and liquid wrench into the cylinders and let them soak over the winter (I've got no timeline with this truck), then this spring I jacked up 1 rear tire, put the truck in high gear, and turned it as far as I could to one side. When it stuck, I jerked the tire a few times, then sprayed in liquid wrench and left it a few days. Came back, turned the wheel as far as I could the other way and did the same thing, figuring I was creating some pressure cracks in the rust that the oil could get into. Came back a few days later and could turn the wheel all the way around. This weekend I got it out, changed the oil and hooked to my neighbors tractor, and we pulled it in third gear down the lane and back at my place with the plugs out and a capful of oil in the chambers. The truck went about a mile. When we got back, we put a battery on and it turns over easily with battery power. I also drained the gas tank and added 2.5 gallons of E85 to soak in the tank to work on the varnish and will drain that out before I move the truck again. Anyways, I thought you would enjoy some pictures. The Dodge also got to formally meet "Mr.T." when he drove by. Mr. T.'s flatbed comes in handy as a mobile work station. We were headed down to check on my beehives in the woods. Interesting how modern the dodge looks next to a Ton Truck from 25 years prior.
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