JaysonK

I did not look up your specific request but they have lots of stuff...try

https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/interior-area-related-parts?pagenumber=11

On 7/16/2018 at 5:42 AM, Pete said:

Try a couple tankfuls of non-Ethanol gas. I had the same issue and this cured it for me.

 

Pete

 

Have put in non ethanol gas, have heat shield and changed the coil... will take it out for another run and see where I am at

1 hour ago, JaysonK said:

Heat riser is there but not hooked up, will look at what position it is in.......I have tried to push gas pedal and starter at the same time but it still takes time

Looks like I will need to repair the heat riser, the spring is sprung....however it is always sitting in the closed position so that should just make it run crappy before it warms up it should not have an issue when warm......anyone know what a good operating temp is, my truck runs around 196 when warmed up..I believe it might be the fuel vaporizing issue p81jan mentioned just confused about the heat riser if it is always closed heat is going right out the exhaust and should not cause this issue?

43 minutes ago, JaysonK said:

Heat riser is there but not hooked up, will look at what position it is in.......I have tried to push gas pedal and starter at the same time but it still takes time

Looks like I will need to repair the heat riser

13 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

Have you inspected the distributor points and what is the ignition timing set at?

Dan points look good to me but I am no expert, lol...as for the timing.......that Is something I need to check....

18 hours ago, JBNeal said:

additional information 

more additional information

Thanks for the info, unfortunately I don’t think it is the starter or cables, I will double check but I am sure I have size 1 cables, I am getting 6.7 volts to the starter

17 hours ago, PT81Jan said:

 

is the heat riser flap still there or maybe it is stuck open ?

The flap was missing on my truck when I got it some years ago. Provided too much heat to the intake manifold which exactly caused the issue that you describe. The fuel is getting vaporized too much and thus too little fuel is entering the combustion chambers.

Only way to start it again was to pump /completely press the accelerator down, which over-enriched the intake. But due to that it sometimes only started with a horrible explosion, two times at the gas station ...

After installing a heat riser flap starting cold or hot is no longer an issue.

 

edit: see also the heat riser topic in the tech tip section -> http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html/

Heat riser is there but not hooked up, will look at what position it is in.......I have tried to push gas pedal and starter at the same time but it still takes time

7 hours ago, greg g said:

Is the base of your carburetor wet with fuel?

Only if I leave the choke out after warm up, not an issue when I remember to push it back in

2 hours ago, Reg Evans said:

I've heard that a weak coil can cause that when it gets hot.  

Interesting. Never thought of that. I will check that out.

Your third picture is what I have on my 52, I have not owned it the whole time but I was told they were original

my dash bulbs were missing so I had to find some replacements, whent to a mom and pop store in the next town over and yep he had them but I had to buy the box of 20.... no issue with me now I have spares.......got Home plugged them in and none of them would work, so I did some research and bought a different brand on eBay, and yes I bought the box...still nothing, then I realized they have to indtalled in the gauges for the ground to work.....moral of the story......I have lots of 6volt bulbs if you just cant find them anywhere else.....oh and I need to learn more! 

Did a search and did not see any answers .....I Have a 52 B3b with original engine still 6 volt system, cold starts great but after running for awhile and warming up it is a bitch to get started, the starter has recently been overhauled so I do not think it is the problem. I have the heat shield for the fuel pump. Anyone have similar issues, I hate taking the truck to run a quick errand because I look stupid cranking away for ten minutes trying to get her started again......

4 minutes ago, tanda62 said:

I got a shop manual and parts manual for my 53 B4C from vintagemoparts.com in a PDF form.  This way I can print out the pages I need for a particular job and have them right there while I do the work. Nice to have these on the computer so the pages are always clean when I work with them.

Great idea.....I will steel it! 

On 5/14/2018 at 7:28 AM, The Oil Soup said:

Here's one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHOP-MANUAL-B3-SERVICE-REPAIR-DODGE-TRUCK-B-3-BOOK-1951-1952/231446567069?hash=item35e34a589d:g:cFwAAOSw~o5aTni2

I have this book for my ‘52 and it has been very helpful it is not all inclusive but most of the mechanicle issues I want to tackle are in there, but not everything for instance windshield wiper motor etc is not in this book.

This was the first project I did with my ‘52......what a learning experience it was ....i had lots of slop in the old king pins but did not have to go oversized. I removed the whole axl to take to a machine shop to have the new king pins put in , my truck no longer wanders and the steering is spot on. These systems in these trucks are so simple i catch myself overthinking everything. The biggest pain is the shacklebushings IMO.

Anyone have a picture on where the interior dome light is mounted?

The Wagner bulb said worked I now have dash lights, thanks for the help, 

Around here most people don’t want to sell because “they are going to get around to doing something with it” or they think it is made out of gold and want you to pay $3000 or more for a non running truck. 

Anyone know where I can find a door lock?

51 minutes ago, FlashBuddy said:

Seriously Paul? I Google "triangle lift" and found this

 

I am positive that my wife will not allow this kind of lift in my truck! 

This isn’t why I am so hesitant to strip my B3 down to do a frame off, I know I will get in a situation where I will let it sit so I am doing small ptojects at a time so I can keep it on the road

16 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

I don't know the GE cross but, I used "Wagner 55" I bought from Napa for the cluster bulbs and "Wagner 51" for my Signal Stat 800 on our B4D

Thanks I will try it, the bulbs my local autozone had the pins were to short to work.

Anyone know what 6 volt bulbs go in the two instrument clusters? 

On 4/25/2018 at 9:34 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

Another chrome one with the original red paint line...

Thanks

On 4/25/2018 at 1:11 AM, JBNeal said:

additional information

Thanks I did a search that did not come up, great info