steveplym

For those that live in the St. Louis area May 2nd the Lakers car club is putting on a cruise night on the brick streets in downtown Lebanon, IL. It is from 6pm to 9pm. It is held at the Dr. Jazz Soda fountain and grille. They have this the first weekend of every month. I'm planning on going up there that evening and was wondering if anyone who lived close by were interested in getting together either at the cruise or before somewhere else. I know it is a little over 3 months away so plans for that weekend may be a bit fuzzy right now, but let me know if you are interested and we can figure something out. Probably will be the first outing of the season and I'm hoping to get the old Plymouth out for a spring cruise.

I was just checking the links and realized I didn't see a p15 d24 calendar for this year. I forgot who always made the calendar. Anyone know of a 2009 P15 D24 calendar?

The cheaper gun I used was a conventional gun. Ran at about 45psi and sprayed single stage enamel. Paint laid down great with that gun, but due to being conventional did have to worry about dry spray as the overspray was much more than a HVLP. I run my HVLP gun at around 20-25psi. It sprays better than my cheaper gun and has much less overspray. Best way to find out how it will spray is to experiment. First time I painted a car I used a siphon feed gun that had a large cup. If you weren't careful when painting a hood, roof, or decklid you could get the bottom of that cup in the paint. Plus you always had paint leftover. If I were you I'd start priming and experimenting with the guns you have now. You can always find a small piece on your car and paint it with the gun once it is prepped and ready. That will let you know how the gun will work and you won't find out halfway into a paint job. When I paint I try to take as many panels as I can off and paint them seperately. I also try to paint the car in sections, especially if it is a big car. Cuts down on the chance of overspray causing dry spray on fresh painted parts.

Yeah the gun is only about 25% of the paint job. Then you have the quality of paint your using, the quality of your bodywork and primer, and the gun settings as well as the painters technique and control. Plus if you get a bit of dry spray or orange peel just sand and buff it. I always put a little bit more color on just so I can have a little more to sand off if needed. Mistakes happen as you probably already well know.

I bought the devilbiss starting line kit from Eastwood. It was a similar set. I've also used the cheap guns as well. They work just as well. In my opinion for primer any gun is fine as you are going to have to sand it anyway. Final finish is where the rubber meets the road. I did paint my old truck with a $25 gravity feed gun about 10 years ago. Put down a very nice paint job. This is the kit I purchased. Around $150 from Eastwood. I've heard from other guys you can get them for a bit less.

Thanks Norm. I'm not sure if I'm coming up to WI meet or not. Thanks for the offer though. There is a lowes, home depot, and Menards close by. I'll probably go and buy some carpet. So is about 6 feet enough to do the trunk area? I've got a thin piece felt in the trunk, but it is showing wear pretty bad. I can use it as a pattern though.

Looks good Norm. Where did you find the carpet?

I've been looking for a trunk mat for my car. I was wanting felt, but rubber would be okay too. I contacted First Class Parts on Ebay, but apparently they went out of business. Anybody else out there selling or making these type of mats?

I hooked my park lamps as turn signals only too Bob. Was much easier that way.

I assume you mean the 5 amp in line fuse wire that is going to "+" on the flasher to battery? Mine is hooked up to the ignition switch to the flasher. That way the key has to be on for the turn signals to go on. With the stop lamp switch. If you hook up all your directional signals to this switch it will power up the bright lights on the rear lamps when it senses power from the stop lamp switch, or when the brakes are applied. This is how I wired mine. One side of the stop lamp switch to battery power and the other side I spliced the wire to the turn signal switch and a wire that ran directly back to the center stop light. All three rear lamps will light bright when brake pedal is pressed. Plus if you have your turn signal on it will flash on that side and not stay on all the time as the turn signal switch will take car of that. Center lamp will stay on as long as brakes are applied when wired this way.

I don't blame you Robin. I'd keep them too. I had to ask though.

I've got one of those. I used to use it in my daily driver to power my radar detector and xm radio. Radar detector quit working so now it just powers my xm radio. It works great.

Ok, thanks shel.

Is that end to end Shel or just the shaft itself?

Anyone know the length of the driveshaft for a P-15 four door? I assume that they would be the same lengths, but I'm not sure. I've got an extra and the shaft itself measured out at 46 1/2". Sound right?

Wow! Nice car. Welcome to the forum.

Don't want to get rid of those P-15 hubcaps do ya Robin?

This is what I would consider a rat rod as.

Ed, I do not know of any 6 volt setup to convert the vacuum to electric. There is a 12V unit available, but that doesn't help you much. I kept the vacuum wipers on mine. I found a good used motor and used a vacuum canister with it. It works really well, but it's getting time to get the motor rebuilt. There are still businesses out there that do that work. Contact Ficken wiper service @ http://www.wiperman.com or call (631)587-3332 M-F 9-5 EST.

Sounds like you got a good plan. Rat rod to me is a heavily chopped, homemade hot rod. Call it what you want, but if you do it to your car and you like it. I think it's cool.

I thought I'd seen it around the net. So does it still have the flathead?, is it converted to 12V? What's the scoop on the car man!

Welcome to the forum Matt. Looks like you have a nice car there. That car looks familiar, did you buy it on the net or locally? Seems I've seen it somewhere before. Ask any questions you have, what's nice is that none of us know everything about our cars so when other have problems I always learn from their mistakes and successes.

Hope it works for you. I'm always hooking up stuff backwards. I read the schematic 10 times and still forgot which way it goes. Don't feel so dumb. One additional note. I'm saying right or left as looking at it from the front of the car. So it would go top passenger side connector goes to the horns, top drivers side connector goes to the horn button. Bottom passenger side goes to the negative side of the ignition coil. Bottom drivers side goes to the ammeter.

Top left connector goes to the horns, top right goes to the horn button. Bottom left goes to the negative side of the ignition coil. Bottom right goes to the ammeter.

Here's a picture of my relay. Are you sure you have it hooked up right?