steveplym

It goes on the front over the crankshaft. The rear of the motor is the rear main seal. Those three holes in that half moon shaped piece are threaded and the front plate which the timing chain cover bolts up to bolts up to them. I'll see if I have a pic of this somewhere.

That is what I was thinking. Thanks for the info.

Looks like the same weather we are having here today. Good day to stay home and relax. I'm ready for 70 degrees and sunny. Tired of the wind, rain, and cold.

I get the same rubbing noise too Greg. I'm running 205 75/15's and the speedometer seems to be off a bit too. I may go to a 215 or 225 once I need new tires. I probably will in a year or so. Been running these since about 2001.

Jim's got a good picture and that piece goes on the front.

I'd go with the NAPA one, but be weary of the autozone pumps. I put an autozone pump on my old truck and it left me stranded a year later. I bought one from NAPA after that and have been running it for about 3 years now without any problems.

Wondering will the ECI kit work with the stock brakes? That is if I wanted a dual master cylinder for my stock drum brakes.

What makes me mad is that I bought one just like that from Roberts for $7. Closest NAPA is about 30 minutes from here. That was a year ago, probably would have cost me just as much in gas to go get it though.

I've been using the 6 volt starter in my car and have just converted it to 12 volt. It starts so fast now I hardly have to push to the starter button to get it to start. With the HEI I installed it fires up easy. Like the others have said, you will need a 12 volt coil that is not internally resisted. It will say on the outside "External resistor needed." Then all you need is a ballast resisitor. You can get one for a few bucks from any auto parts store. Just put it in series between the ignition switch and the positive side of the coil. Then you should be set on the ignition. I'd buy an extra one though as they have been known to fail at inopportune times.

That should work whether you have electronic ignition or not. Ignition is just marked positive on the diagram. If that looks like the connections you have I'd say give it a shot. Just wondering if there was any reason why you didn't go with the GM three wire alternator? I just converted mine with that alternator and it was super easy to wire up and don't have to worry about a voltage regulator. I know that each to their own and sometimes you use what parts you have, I was just wondering if you thought about the GM internal regulated alternators.

I think they fit the same rims Bill. I have a nine inch hubcap on my spare and it seems to be the same rim.

Looking good Bigred. The most user friendly paint in my opinion is lacquer. You have to sand and buff it to get a good shine, but it cleans up easy. Only problem is due to regulations it is almost impossible to get anymore. Next up would be single stage enamel. Only because it is a single stage process, where basecoat/clearcoat is two stages. IMHO you will be more happy with a basecoat/clearcoat paint job.

A thread I started on this a few years ago. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=3029&highlight=Fuel+Gauge Sounds like you have your wires connected right. I had to run a ground from under the sending unit out to the frame. That took care of my problem. Otherwise it always went straight to full. Not properly grounded means it will go all the way over to full. If the wire that runs to the switch from sending unit is grounded it will read 1/2 when full, 1/4 when half, and so on. If you haven't run a ground wire from under the sending unit screws to the frame yet try that. Over time with painting the straps and the frame the tank ground can not work.

I've thought about joining the Lincoln Land region POC. It is about 1 1/2 hrs drive to St. Louis for me. I'm a member of a local car club here in the area. We put on two shows and just enjoy hanging out on the weekends with the cars. It's fun to do things with other like minded people.

Looking good Fred, that bodywork is coming along nicely. Keep it up, it gets better.

This is the tool most body shops use. It works very well.

I think my bumpers were rechromed in 1980. Seems my grandfather told me he paid about $100 a piece back then at a place in St. Louis. I think he said they are closed now. Looking at all these prices I think I'll go out and put another coat of chrome polish on them.

Nice looking car Andrew. Welcome to the forum. Keep hanging around here and you'll learn a lot.

1947 Plymouth. Old paint job, but same center caps and trim rings.

Went to Waterloo this morning. Didn't find much for myself. It rained all day today. Cars and trucks stuck out in the mud and water everywhere. Guess I should have stayed home, but had a good time with a couple of friends anyway.

You can add one that has replacement filters or just an all in one filter canister. I changed mine over to the reusable filter that just has the cartridges to replace. I've also got an extra filter canister that has to be replaced all in one that I bought a few years ago. If you would like to have it let me know. You can buy and make the lines at any auto parts store. Just have to get the right fittings to screw into the block.

I tried to pry one off an extra one I had. I had one with a better backing and another with a better skin. The skin ended up tearing from being rusted together. I could not get it off. Maybe the chrome shop would have different tools and better luck.

Well I hope the honeymoon is not over by then, figuratively speaking. Let me know and maybe I'll come up in June as well. There is always something going on in the Stl area.

Check this link out. David Maxwell had this in his car at one time. http://www.casmfg.com/Accessories.htm Go down to the center of the page.

Looks like a new item on ebay. P-15 address labels. Convertible, Coupe, and Sedan. I would think you could print these up yourself, but neat none the less. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-PLYMOUTH-SPECIAL-DELUXE-CON-COUPE-PERS-ADD-LABELS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a2Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220386825808QQitemZ220386825808QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories