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48Windsor

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Everything posted by 48Windsor

  1. Success! Have been troubleshooting the Fluid Drive on the old girl. Spent the last week resolving wiring issues. Amazing how brittle the old wiring is! I think most of the problem was just insulation being worn off wiring in the engine compartment. I also found one of the choke rods resting on the screw of kickdown switch???(not sure what its called as I get all the components mixed up). That couldn't have been good. The info on the Imperial site was very helpful. Anyway, had to take it into town, around 10mi. roundtrip to get it inspected. Tranny performed flawlessly! Chicks were waving and old guy like me stopped me at at the gas station. Now, on to carb rebuild, exhaust leak, etc. etc. etc. Thanks to all for the assistance thus far. Tom B
  2. Tom, thanks for the heads up on the parts. I 'm hoping I don't have to go there but knowing my luck, who knows. Man that wiring is brittle after 70 years. Can't hardly touch without the insulation falling off! Tom B
  3. Tom S - thanks, checked all that. rb1949 - Thanks - heard that site mentioned somewhere before. Their info is better in some ways than the manual I bought. Will look at putting in new wires. Since its a driver, don't need original looking harness. Tom B
  4. Well, I got my manual finally. Been going through the Fluid Drive diagnostics. Everything has checked out until I got the governor switch is not opening. Can this be looked at with the governor on the tranny?? I assume there are some points stuck or not making.?? Tomorrow I'll trace the wire for continuity first, to make sure its ok. I did go ahead and replace the 10w oil in the tranny since I was there anyway. On to more testing. Tom B
  5. Thanks. Thought it was a little wide for 6v. Tom B
  6. I see in the tech pages the plug gap is .025 But, for ACR 45 use .035. I have ACR 45's . Just seems like an awful wide gap.
  7. I pulled the fuse and took it for a spin. It shifted up so it must be in one of the other components. I've slowed the idle down to what I think is about right. Don't have a tach to see rpm's. Will start pulling the carpet back remove the covers. Will also check the carb connections.
  8. Well, got a couple problems solved. Got the old 6v system charging again like it should. Rebuilt generator, the shop said was out of an Airflow, and cleaning up some wiring solved that problem. After going through all the wiring, I missed one wire going to the distributor that had a flaky end on it, causing no spark. Looked good, as it was one of the original soldered wires. Darn thing turned out to be only making about 50% of the time. Anyway, got it running well enough to take it down the road a bit. Clutch pedal feels sluggish going in and out. Seems to shift into all gears ok, pedal iis just slow. Same with the brake pedal, might be a little mushy too. I imagine the old pucks might be a little corroded. Will have to look into the brake system at some point. Didn't seem to want to shift into high gear in either range. I'm hoping the idle was set to fast for it to shift. So, on to all the new challenges. I did find out that my shop manual should be here Wednesday, so that should help. Thanks everyone for all the assistance and patience thus far getting the ol girl back on her feet. Tom B
  9. Yep, thats the way the wires traced out, Didn't know what the relay was called. That's kind of what I thought. Figuring out what comes out of an old harness is time consuming to figure out. Anyway, I've got everything hooked back up according to the diagram? and the way it was originally with the exception of correcting the +and -on the coil. Hooked the battery up, NO SMOKE!. Hit the starter button and it ran for about 15 seconds and died due to the choke/carb not being right. Started again and ran for 5 seconds. Now, no fire to the plugs. Must have lost something, points, coil, condensor. One step forward, 2 steps back. Another mystery, I found this wire buried under tape on the armature wire harness. Any idea where it should go. Sorry for being such a pain but I'm kinda shootin in the dark on this 69 year old stuff. Can't afford to take it somewhere and have someone else try and figure it all out. Thanks for everyones comments and advice so far. Looking forward to driving this old rig.
  10. Thanks for the tips. Bad grounds on these old cars are always a problem it seems. To many years of moisture and neglect. After looking at the wiring diagram again could the two wires shown going to the - coil connection be joined together somewhere in the harness, resulting in only one wire>
  11. Hi all, been going through the old 6v system. I like to clean up all the contacts, replace battery cables, etc. to try and keep it functional. Wasn't charging, took gen. in to check out/rebuild. Its toast, arm. shorted. inside of case looks like something exploded. Rebuilder found one on a back shelf rebuilt years ago. Bought it for $125 which I thought was a SCORE!. Printed the wiring diagram off another site. The wiring in engine bay is a mess. While tracing wires to the coil, the wire to the ignition switch is MIA. Don't know how it started and ran and shut off with the key??. The - side of the coil only has a wire coming from the relay on the fender. Anyone out the know which bundle the ignition wire is supposed to come out of??? The wires on the + side now trace back correctly. It WAS wired backwards. Sorry don't have a pic of the wire bundles coming out of the firewall Fuel gauge doesn't work. Prev. Owner replaced fuel tank, lines, and supposedly the sender. Is there a way to check whether its gauge, sender or other problem? I've got a shop manual on order but I hasn't showed up yet. Any guidance appreciated. Tom B
  12. Thanks for the comments. Trying to get used to using this forum. Don't have a photo editor so here goes on loading a pic. That's interesting on the tire size. Where did you get the info? Just found a twisted wire lug on the generator, good thing I didn't try to drive home! Not charging. Will see if I can get it rebuilt. Starting the process of going through everything to get it road worthy. As you can tell by the yellow white walls, they are probably 30+ years old. They're severely cracked also. Made the ol F150 grunt pulling home. Tom B
  13. Thanks for the good info on tire options.
  14. Thanks for the replies. So somewhere around 215 or 225-75-15's should work, and not screw up the speedo too bad.? Sounds like I will have to watch it closely if I go with 225. I looked at the Yahoo group but didn't look like there was much activity on it. Will check it out. Also, will post a pic or two when I get it home. Thanks again. Tom B
  15. New here, trying to get up to speed on Chrysler products lingo. Just acquired a 48 Windsor, amateur restoration back in the 80's, Has been sitting for a number of years. Current owner replaced gas tank, all fuel lines, all new brakes, lines, cylinders, etc. Seems to run ok but old tires kept me from driving it home, so will trailer it home tomorrow, about 150mi. one way. Next step will be to start going through it to get it roadworthy. I've been reading, trying to get educated on it. I'm sure I'll have many questions. The Tech Tips contains a lot of great info. I read somewhere they came out with 650x15 tires. Mine has 710x15's on it. Which equivalents should I go with when I replace them with radials? Thanks for any insight. Looking forward to visiting with you all and hope I don't bore you all with my questions. Really like the old "marble dropper", at least that's what the fluid drives used to be called in this part of the country. Tom B Rossville Ks
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