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48Windsor

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Everything posted by 48Windsor

  1. Looks great! I wouldn't worry much about the stains, etc. After 76 years, all of us have a few "character flaws"! Tom B
  2. Good to know. How thin is your stainless piece? Also,do you have a gasket on each side of the stainless piece? Thanks for the help. Tom B
  3. Thanks for the suggestion. Thats the easy solution, I agree. I'm guess I worried about all the exhaust hitting under the carb, possibly boiling the gas in the carb or causing vapor lock problems. Since the bottom of the intake is open, seems like I ought to put some separation between the two to route the exhaust gases out. Maybe I'm making more out of this than I need to but don't want to do it again.
  4. Ok guys, I'm back again. I've got the manifolds separated. I'm down to either spending another $100 on repairing the heat riser or removing it. My preference would be to remove it. I haven't seen any pics or anything on putting a piece of metal between the two manifolds to block off the exhaust to the intake. Is there enough slop to put a piece of metal between them and not crack either of the manifolds when I go to cinch them down?? If I go to having anything welded, I'm right back to spending at least $100 to have someone do it. Seems like I'm taking one step forward and two steps back on this thing. Hmm, must be a song like that. I admit, I really don't know what the hell I'm doin with this thing so sorry for the dumb questions. Tom B
  5. In relation to this, I've searched every combination for the correct position of the washer, nuts, etc. for the intake/exhaust manifold. I'm installing a used intake/exhaust that has not been separtated, and need am wondering where the different types of washer go.I know the 4 cone shaped nuts and washers go on #1 & 6. but, the rest are a quandary to me. Someone has been into it before which is why the exhaust was cracked. Anywhere I can go to get this info. My manual is pretty usless, all it gives is torque 15-20 lbs. I don't want to crack this one. Thanks for any help
  6. I finally got another intake/exhaust manifold. I'm going to disable the heat riser so I don't have to separate it. I'm looking at having someone braze the shaft to plug the worn bushings/hole on each side. I just want to verify that I need to turn the shaft clockwise to get the flapper in the proper location so the exhaust exits without restriction. Any other suggestions on disabling it or on install is appreciated, Thanks Tom B
  7. Welcome. I recently acquired a 48 Windsor 4 dr. Its my first old Mopar but not my 1st old car. Going through what you are just getting into. This is a great site with lots of expertise available. Sounds like yours is in better shape than mine. Figuring out these old rigs can be frustrating at times, but they are simple enough you can usually work through it. Oh, we like pics. Tom B
  8. Well, I finally got it off. No wonder it was so noisy! I've got a couple leads so hopefully one works out.
  9. Today i got commandeered into helping pour a patio. Working concrete is almost as bad a laying on your back working on a Chrysler. This car is a 251 6 cylinder as stated above. I've got all the nuts out except for the one in the middle underneath on the intake port. Also, need to get at one nut on the exhaust pipe.Both are kind of a bear to get at. No impact wrench on them. Been soaking them so hopefully they'll break lose. I forgot that the studs in #1 and #6 cyinder get into the water jacket! By the time I got it screwed back in,,,,,,,,,, Well lets just say my shop floor has now been cleaned real good! I just had to shake my head and walk away. Will work on those last two Friday.
  10. My floorboards are a freakin mess so I won't be able to help you a whole lot. They are patched up with a crapload of bolts with nuts under the car. Took me an hour with the wife to take it all lose. The few original bolts were the same size. There was one short one that I believe was on the top/middle of the tranny hump. The solenoid cover sounds about right, I'll have take a look at it.
  11. Casper50, thanks for the very generous offer. But, as is my usual luck, its a 251cu. in. so I assume a 25". When/If I start looking for one, what years do I look for or do I just need a 251 manifold??? If anyone runs across one, let me know. Thanks for all the tips on what the welder needs to go through. I didn't think cast iron could be welded successfully. I'll try to quiz them without offending them if i have to go that route. I've gotten all the nuts broke lose except for the last 2 on #6 cyl. Of course there's always got to be one. Letting it soak overnight. Interesting side note. When I removed the carb, the two nuts were barely tightened down. They're fairly short studs but don't you usually us a lock washer on them. Can't imagine it wasn't leaking a little. Also, I thought it was missing the choke rod deflector, but the last person had it turned around. I turned it towards the choke rod, but things aren't lining up right. Will have to look at the pic i got earlier. Dpollo, Bucyrus is about 2.5 hours east of me. My daughter and her family live about 30 min. or so from there. Probably a little far. Good to know though. Tom B
  12. Today I got serious about researching the intake/exhaust manifold and carb rebuild. Spent some time trying to determine where the exhaust leak is. Sure enough,crawled under the car to put PB Blaster on all the nuts and saw that the exhaust on #6 cyclinder is cracked. I imagine finding one will be as rare as a hen's tooth. Also, while looking around in that area, how in the world can anyone ever adjust the valves. even with the fender panel removed. What a setup!!! I've rebuilt small engine carbs and 1 barrels on old tractors. I'm pretty hesitant on trying to rebuild this Carter BB. Lots more parts, balls, accel. pumps, dashpot, etc etc. Looks like I need to turn it over to a local shop. Ok, done crying in my beer. I hate paying shop labor.
  13. wow, lots of talent there. Awesome job
  14. Thanks tips guys. I just hate it when I ruin something, and didn't ask about it. This is a great site with a lot of experience willing to help a novice like me. Tom b
  15. Bingster, no problem. IIf you need anything else just holler. Kuckle - Yeah, it amazes me how it takes care of itself. I do use the clutch when shifting to reverse or between 2nd and 3rd positions on the shift pattern. Marble Dropper is a fitting name, listening for the shift.
  16. I've searched and read a bunch of items on garnish moldings. Haven't found anything on exactly how these things are attached. After removing the screws, what else is holding them on. Mine need some refurbishment. I tried to lift the rear door ones off but they appear to be held somewhere on the door panels?? Do they need to come off. I get tired of wrenching sometimes and need a diversion like cleaning/painting up some bits. Thanks Tom B
  17. I was a working stiff. But,I did graduate from Aggieville! Tom B
  18. Good to know I'm not the only one not enjoying laying on a concrete floor. Note to self, close doors before getting under car or it can severely limit the range of motion when getting up. After monkeying around with this thing, I finally got it back to where it was before. At least it not slipping any more.Whether its correct who knows. Took it for a jaunt around the section out here and everything appears to be functioning again. Put it in 3rd position and never touched the clutch till I got back home.While it was jacked up I spent several hours cleaning up 50 years of hard grease and gravel off the front end components. Found a couple zirks covered up that hadn't been touched in a while. Greased it up and added lube to the steering box. Big improvement on the ease of steering. Thanks all for your patience, its been a while since I've had a vehicle with a clutch. Bingster - here's a pic of the washers and bolts holding the floor.
  19. Sure I'll take some nuts and bolts pics. Some are reasonable originalAnd some are not.
  20. Yes it's a fluid drive car. Check the oil in the fluid coupler and it's full.It appears I have no free play. As soon as I hit the clutch pedal the Clutch Fork starts to move. Is the free play set with the clutch depressed Or with it fully out?Sorry I've forgotten how all this is supposed to work. There is a little slop in the linkage but not all that much.
  21. Just spent over half a day removing the floor pan to get to the clutch and brake pedal assembly. In all the previous owners wisdom, he sandwiched metal over the old rusty drivers side floorboard and globbed on undercoating all over everything. But, oh well. Will fix it later. The clutch pedal was 2" lower than brake pedal. Wanted to get it adjusted even. Should have left well enough alone. I've read most of the clutch adjust items in the posts. Thought I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into. I got the clutch pedal adjusted even. But, the clutch adjust is where my novice skills are showing up again. I'm afraid the old clutch is getting towards the end of its life. But, it was still working. Now its very marginal. My question is, To get the most out of the worn clutch, do I adjust the clutch rod longer or shorter?? Or is it an effort in futility. I didn't notice it slipping before, but now, with the tire against a 2" ledge going into the garage, it slips enough to not get over it. Man, I'm too old to replace this thing laying on my back any more. Thanks for any help. Tom B
  22. I'm in ROSSVILLE, about 25mi. W of Topeka. IIf you don't mind a Chrysler, would like to hook up to swap lies also. Tom B
  23. Wow, looks very nice! Have Fun. I noticed you're in Ks. Where you located. I just started on a 48 Chrysler Windsor.
  24. Thanks all for the comments. Dpollo, not up on all the semantics and terminology. It says FLUID DRIVE on the trunk so thats what I'm going with, meaning all that drivel line stuff. Hows that for being exact! Dodgeb4ya, thanks for the great pic! I thouht there had to be a way to keep it from shorting out. Right now I put some wiring shrink wrap around the choke rod to keep it from grounding out. Rube Goldberg I know but it works as a temp fix. Wonder if I could make something similar to what's in the pic. Is it aluminum? Or, are they available somewhere?? Thanks again all. Tom B
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