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Bison00

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Everything posted by Bison00

  1. Are you installing the new band using the procedure in the shop manual? The reason I ask is that I also thought the lining was too thick when I installed mine but there are multiple adjustment points not just the main clamp. The extra adjustment points center the band on the drum. If these are not set correctly for a new band it won’t fit.
  2. Looks like China is reproducing them now. Previously all I’ve seen on eBay were NOS ones. The repop is not cheap but its nice to have the option of buying a new one.
  3. I believe the capillary tube senses temperature in the heated air duct and partially controls the heater valve to hold a constant air temperature, like a thermostat. So you set the desired temp with the hot/cold control and then the bulb tries to hold it there. I don't know how well it works as my car (50 New Yorker) had a replacement valve with no bulb. NOS ones are very pricey. I have heard there is a Volvo part with a bulb that can be adapted. I use my heater a lot this time of year in Canada and with just the hot/cold control it takes a lot of fiddling to get the temperature comfortable, so the bulb thermostat seems like a good idea.
  4. I have to confess, I just don’t understand the logic behind the dislike of generators. Its like: old heavy unsafe car - Love It old low power inefficient flathead - Love it old 6V generator - Get it out of my car! Generators are part of the vintage vibe. They make a vintage engine bay look vintage. They work fine, even if it is disconcerting to see a 20A discharge when stopped at a light (with accessories on). Why the hate for generators? My 50 New Yorker had an original, miserable electrical system when I bought it. The battery was always run down, wipers were dead slow, lights kind of dim. I replaced all the wiring front to back, using the proper gauge, including removing the dash and replacing all the wiring there. And I made sure everything was well grounded. I Installed a new Optima battery and a NOS regulator. I am still running the original generator. I haven’t even taken it out to check the brushes and bearings, although I will this summer. Generators work fine but it seems that the vintage electrical parts - generators, 6 V and points ignition, just gets no love compared the the rest of our vintage machinery. I admit I am a retired Electrical Engineer who always loved vintage electrical and electronic gear, more that the modern stuff I worked on for a living. Curt
  5. James, Thanks for elaborating on that. Are you saying the Optima engineers recommend there should be zero charge showing on the ammeter for a fully charged battery ? Mine certainly does show a slight charge at all times when cruising and I thought that was normal. According to Optima’s website, the maximum recommended float (fully charged) current is 1A but they go on to say that if your vehicle charging system maintains a float voltage of 14-14.8V (7-7.4V for a six volt system) you should be fine. That is a pretty broad voltage spec that any correctly adjusted stock charging system should be in compliance with. I did check this a year ago but I think I will hook up a digital volt meter and ammeter again and see what is going on as the car operates. I’m also going to check for any heating at the bottom of the battery. If there is too much float current it should be a simple matter of adjusting the voltage regulation relay to lower the voltage a bit. That in turn will lower the charging current. For sure a digital regulator designed for AGM batteries should be a safe way to go but I enjoy keeping this old technology stuff working, and I see no reason that a mechanical regulator can’t be dialed in to the correct voltage and charging rate for an Optima. In fact, from what you are saying about the digital regulator products sometimes working and sometimes not, I’m inclined to stick with the old adjustable mechanical regulator. There should not be any “sometimes it works, sometimes not” voodoo for a well designed product. My comment about matching the regulator and generator is really a separate issue about getting the full rated charge out of your generator. If we install a 30A regulator with a 45 amp generator, the current regulation relay will prevent the generator from giving its full rated charging current. As these cars have barely enough generator power to run all the lights and accessories, you need every amp you can get. You also don’t want the generator producing more than its rated current, or it will overheat. Thats why I don’t understand the “one size fits all” new replacement regulators sold by the vendors. thanks, Curt
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