Jump to content

Wahoowins

Members
  • Posts

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Traverse City, MI
  • Interests
    Anything old
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Club Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired U.S.C.G.
  • Occupation
    Retired

Recent Profile Visitors

918 profile views
  1. Dpollo mentioned replacing a flexible jumper wire and worn insulation on it. Went to the local auto parts store and he had a braided jumper wire with no insulation. Is it necessary to have insulation on it? Secondly when I went to install it, I now see that there are actually two jumper wires. The second is clamped to the post where the points spring and screw are and then to the housing. Should these both be the braided wire?
  2. Thanks, those are great suggestions. I've never heard of the flexible wire before but will certainly look at that first. I had already done the coil test that Merle suggested and it was a strong spark.
  3. 1950 Plymouth with factory inline 6. No spark after coil. I have tested the coil lead to ground and get a good spark with points open and bridging with a screwdriver. No spark from that point forward to any plugs. I'm going to presume the issue is with the distributor but don't know how to test it. New coil, points condenser, plugs and wires. Points are gapped at .020. No signs of cap cracks. I've had a difficult time finding a mechanic locally who is willing to look at it since it doesn't come with a port for plugging in their diagnostic computer. Any advice on how to proceed with the diagnostics would be much appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use