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Everything posted by Los_Control

  1. The links are normal, is part of internet sales. I do not know how it all works. I believe the advertisement links are randomly added as you type, then the forum site we are using gets a monetary percentage of sorts. Just saying that it is nothing on your end that is causing it.
  2. I am also going to come up against this issue. I have 2 tanks to choose from, one has a ball of old bubble gum looking patch material on it already. Another looks good on the exterior, but it sat with no gas cap on it for years and expect holes. I have newer tanks available from different trucks, What I wonder about, is there any certain modern sending unit that can be made to work with the original gas gauge? Or what others have done to get around the gas gauge issue.
  3. Thank you verry much for that. I was not sure and been trying to pull on it. But have also tried to push, with the bent and weakened handle, I may need to get creative. At least I know which way to go. Feel confident I can get it open. Had a similar issue on a old chebby. Seems like there is 2 rivets that hold the handle, and only dangling by one. Just when you think it will break, you pull harder and it will release. But took a couple months to get the hood open, was worried it would break off. I have a stick lying on the core support now, so the hood can not close again.
  4. It is starting to warm up, snow is melting and time to get back to work. This 51 suburban I have not been able to open the hood, feels as if the hood release handle is bent. I only assume and do not know, Handle is pulled towards you to release? When I do this, it runs into grill metal before it releases. Seems like I will need to bend the handle back in such a way that I can get more movement on it, but need to confirm that I should pull and not push the handle. A quick look at it, I do not think I can remove the grill to get to the core support without the hood open. Tho
  5. Seems like it was between 1934 and 1935 that they did a little physical work on the bell housing, moving the starter location. I would think the '35 or '36 trans would fit fine. Or even newer. Does the 1937 have a floor shift or column? Thinking it is floor shift, my 1949 truck has the 3 on the floor with a 1937 218 engine. I bet something newer then the 37 would fit.
  6. Was a lot of recent conversation about upgrading the stock brakes to disk. Looks pretty straight forward. Power steering still might be nice for the wife daily driver though.
  7. interesting that it had a under the hood heater also. I have not got the hood open on this thing yet. So have not seen. Hood latch is bent and when you pull it to you, run out of room because it is bent. Will be a creative process to get the hood open. Add rust and weather. Maybe when the sun comes out it will open itself.
  8. I have one that is mounted under the drivers seat. I am curious if this was standard location or a option on these cars. Not sure what to think of the location. I suppose it helps heat the rear passenger area better. But sitting on top of the heater, would seem to be hot and uncomfortable. I would be tempted to turn the heater way down or almost off. My wife on the other hand ... probably never get her out of the car.
  9. What happens is you get a crown in the tread area, you will be riding on the center of the tread and not full contact with the road. This will lead to irregular and premature tread wear, a bit of a safety issue with possible hydro planing on wet surface. And generally bad handling while driving. This would be extreme conditions. With the 5" wheel, I do not think you will see any of these conditions. And if you do, you could maybe adjust it out running 30 pounds air instead of 35 to get the tread flat. You would not be under inflated and get a good ride and handling. The 4
  10. I agree, arguing on the internet is about as productive as counting ants in your garden. Back in the day before metric radials, we had L R 78 15 The L would be the height again and the 78 the width. When we got the metric radials, the same concept was carried over and used for years. I see all are calling the 235 the width and the 75 the aspect ratio. Honestly this is a sales tool imho, makes it sound like rocket science and you are getting the latest space age technology with our tires. If we are so precise with the measuring, why does two different brand of tires with the
  11. In a past life before I became a carpenter, as a kid I started out running a service truck repairing semi truck tires, did that for a few years and then I started off in a shop retreading truck tires. I retreaded for about 14 years. During that time I spent much time in school for repairing tires, I was a certified Bandag master craftsman for over ten years and eventually ended up managing the retread shop. When that shop sold, I went to another company and started a off road tire repair shop. In my late 30's was tired of breathing rubber dust and I wanted a change, moved on to carpentry.
  12. the correct way to read tire sizes 235- 75-R-15 235 is the height of the tire 75 is the width of the tire R is indicating a radial, B would be a bias 15 is the rim size. Is kinda stupid but funny how the tire width is / was explained to me. 75 means it is 75% wide as it is tall. I did not create the system, I dont claim to agree with it, but it is what it is. A 70 series tire is wider then a 75, a 60 series is wider then 70 and the 50 series are ... A quick glance at a random online tire store, they do make some 80 series tires, but did not see them in
  13. I got to go visit molly today, rocked her pistons a little, and then looked at her rear end. The u-joint does look like a different animal, not sure if this looks like the odd ball everyone was talking about. If it is, will be hoping I can use the yoke off the 52 transmission and install it on the 49. Time will tell, still to cold and snow on the ground to be working outside for the joy of the project. Where the 52 is parked, cant even get to it because of snow.
  14. actually I kinda like the brass look, but may get them re chromed sometime down the road. Will for sure be sanding the chrome off of my dome light, maybe we could make a trade for my chrome and your brass
  15. I also thought the same, but if a inline fuel pressure regulator was installed, and probably should have one any ways, would think it to be ok.
  16. Not sure what others have done with electric fuel pumps, sure you need a regulator also. Think carburettors like 5-7 pounds pressure. I asked the same question about fuel line size. The original fuel line is 5/16", but the brass fittings and fuel pump connectors are all 1/4" or 3/8". I never measured them, just saying they are smaller then 5/16" And the larger line dropped down to a smaller size fitting, I really dont think would be much difference, if was just kept all at the same smaller size. Since I have to buy line any ways, will stay with the 5/16" and use the existing bra
  17. I have found that the metal trim on my 1949 is brass with chrome over it. Just saying it could be possible that someone removed the chrome and is now just brass. My dome light is the same size/shape as the one in the photo above. But still hanging from the wires, buried in the tattered shreds of the remaining headliner. Not sure if it is also brass.
  18. Thanks again merle. The B3B looks like it was the transmission was the reason why it was parked. Missing the top cover plate and linkage for the column shift. Now if that tail shaft yoke would fit the B1C, would give me the later ujoints for the new drive line ... will have to remove and inspect closer.
  19. My B1C has already had a front axle swap to a 1/2 ton. I will need to carry 2 spares with different bolt patterns. It has been sitting since 1978, will need a complete brake job, Lines, wheel cylinders, I do not want to deal with the larger brake drums, shoes of the 3/4 ton. I am pretty sure I will not be happy with the original gearing. Now if we throw in a possible u-joint issue, maybe now is the right time to do a rear end swap. I would expect to include the drive line as part of the swap. And the 1/2 ton 3/4 ton wheel base differences, will need drive line work.
  20. Thank you, I will take a close look and compare the B1C and B3B and see if they are different and take a photo. Maybe it is possible to use the yoke off of the B3B transmission, if it has a better option for u-joints. I was just kinda caught by surprise while reading this thread.
  21. Do you think the 49 B1C would be included in that group? Now am curious as I want to keep the original 3 speed floor shift transmission.
  22. I would like to have the larger 230 myself. Seems that plyroadking is correct in the came should be different. Changing the rotating assembly would give you the cubic inches, but not change the way it breathes to handle the new volume. But searching the part numbers may prove they were the same. But having 2 trucks and 4 218's Seems I will be staying with the more common 218. *sigh*
  23. I never thought of ujoints for our truck being a issue, seems there would only be so many choices in cap size, something off the shelf would work. Seems one more reason to do a explorer rear swap and driveline .
  24. One thing I have noticed on these old trucks, the metal work is pretty straight forward. I need to practice my welding skills, no doubt about that. I figure the floor is the perfect place to do it. I have some rust in the rear of my cab, and a bit on the inside floor as well. This includes the passenger side rear mount. And I have a extra cab that is pretty much rust free and would be a excellent donor for floor replacement. The problem is, I cant justify in my head to cut up the other cab, to replace these simple flat metal spots on my 49 cab. Just go to the metal mart and
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