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Posts posted by Los_Control

  1. Julie I have not talked ... no reason too.

    You know you have been taking advantage of and there are friends to help you.

    You need to get that truck out of there as quick as you can.


    Just incredible the amount of work they have done on it with a $20k  cap ...

    You just need to get the truck out of the shop hands and soon back too your hands.


    You paid what you owe ... now you owe nothing.

  2. 1 hour ago, chrysler1941 said:

    Interesting info. I never knew that. My other non MoPar has a polished ribbed stainless steel Peckat Comet Skyshield visor.

    Thats just someones opinion. We are all entitled to have our own opinion.


    My Uncle born in 1928 that passed away a couple years ago told me that.

    He would tell me about the days he would skip school, get Aunt Jennies attention and drag her out and they would take the model A out driving all day.

    High school sweet hearts that were married for over 50 years til death.

    The story about the old ford with mechanical brakes and they installed a flathead v8 ford in it. Couple of 16 year old kids, scared the crap out of them ... that car would run but the brakes were non existent. I sure miss the times I had with him telling me stories about the past.


    So let me explain, when I said the statement above, I was kinda sharing a story my Uncle told me and his opinion.

    Was tough times back then, they were buying cars for $5 or $50, trying to make them go fast ... the visor would slow you down.

    And it really was his opinion, that the visor should stay on the Grandpa's car ... not a Hot Rod.


    But later on in the 50's or 60's they got popular. But back in the day, the kids did not think much about them, threw them in the iron pile.

    Again your car and you do you. I apologize for sharing a story from my Uncle ... actually brought tears to my eyes thinking about him.

    His nick name was Grumpy .... and thats what Grumpy would tell you   :)

  3. 10 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

    There really wasn't any confusion - I just thought that perhaps with a custom hood it might have a dual purpose.

    You are correct really .... Main reason was it did live outside. After a good rain when I would start it a day later, and the electronic ignition would be wet and run like crap for some time until it dries out.  I finally got my garden shed built this spring so now it has a place under cover to park.

    I still use it to pull a trailer with for yard work and hauling brush to the dumpster. I could get caught a a summer downpour, then be dead in the water til it dried out.

    Just will be more dependable with a hood. Then it has a headlight switch and wiring, but no headlights. The hood will give me a place to mount them.


    Kind of boils down to what is your time worth? Obvious my time is not worth very much  :D Really not worth building a hood now that have a dry place to park it.

    But! The dual purpose is teaching myself to weld and fabricate. I really made some rookie mistakes making the frame for it. I started with curved pipe thinking it would look cool. I would have been way ahead starting with straight pipe instead I finally got it but learned something.

    Here is a video, no need to watch it but is what I am thinking for the hood. Nothing fancy.

    I do not like the flat front end on this one though. I cut my hood to length straight across like this ... immediately regretted it and started welding it back together.

    That was another learning experience. But I got it. I just want a little angle coming to a point in the middle, cut the metal 2" long then fold it in at a angle and recess the grill.

    Just give it a little style.

    Is the mower worth it? No! I have a better sears craftsman 42" 6 speed that has a good hood, paint, headlights with a little work I will be using it instead.

    What I am learning from the experiment is priceless. When I get back to working on my pilothouse. I wont even hesitate putting in the needed patch panels and will be even more comfortable with mixing the paint and spraying it. Just from working on a old lawn mower.


    Thats the real dual purpose.







  4. 43 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said:

    s that mower going to be a racing mower? 

    Sorry there is confusion. I use that mower to cut my grass ... there is no other purpose for it from me.

    So while I build a tilt front end on it to keep the weather off of it ... I also built a garage for it and no weather gets on it.

    No I am not building something special .... just cutting the grass.

  5. Back in the day ... ya all wanted what you got.

    The visor was something your Grandpa ran. Nothing wrong with it.

    The kids were embarrassed to have such a abomination on the windshield..


    Not saying I am correct, just saying if you were a hot rodder in the 50's the visor was for your Grandpas car not yours.

    So while we touch bases on the visor ... just not really important.

  6. I only wanted to add, I am no small engine mechanic .... just have a lifetime of experience with them. And I watch videos.

    I can usually keep the old junk running.

    The difference though is our life styles. I was disabled 10 years ago when I was 48 years old. Now 58.

    I was building houses and doing finish carpentry work, employer was charging the customer $65 per hour for me to be there ... I ran a 3 man crew ... I had no time to work on lawnmower engines.


    Most working people really do not have time to mess with small engines. Not a bad thing ... just something you need to juggle your time with.

    I can see you easily making more money working your job and not messing with small engines. Simply a choice we make in life.


    @Eneto-55 Just saying life has more then one path, up to you to decide what path to travel.

    Here is a photo of a current project. I want to say it looks stupid, but am learning from it to fabricate sheet metal. It works perfect without a hood.

    The goal is to create a hood with lights like the old doodle bugs of the 1940's.  Just trying to learn & fabricate like our Grandfathers did.

    I enjoy the learning.


    @Eneto-55 You could easily make money working and replace the pressure washer many times over.

    You have to wonder if you want to fix it, or just make life easy and replace it. Or you have time to learn from it.


    We have a local small engine repair shop here in town. The city brought in a commercial zero turn mower for repair.

    The shop owner quoted $1700 for replacement of the rear end.

    The city decided to buy a new machine and sold old machine to my neighbor for $50. He added fluid and used it for 2 more years til he died.


    The shop could have done the same. They were more interested in going in for the kill and make some serious money not check the fluids.


    You just need to be careful who you take your stuff to.  A old retired fart like me can be good, while some shops can be bad.




  7. This is my first pressure washer. I wanted one for awhile and looked for used. Seems they all needed a new pump. Been abused ... Or if they worked & they were asking for as much as a new unit. So I just bought a new one. I think they sell enough pumps that they are reasonable in price.


    I also am anal about having water connected to it. I wont even check for spark without the water running through it. I just lay the wand on the ground out of the way and have a spring clamp on the trigger to flow the water.

    I know the engine will not start .... feel it is a good habit to get into. Anytime the motor turns over it has water flowing.

    The water is the lubrication for the rubber pieces in the pump. Turning it over dry you may not kill it .... possible you will lose a few hours of service life from the wear.


    Would you drain the engine oil from your car ... then turn the engine over to check for spark? May not kill it but not doing it any favors. Possible will lose a few hours of service life from turning it over without proper lubrication.

    Just my feelings on it, may be anal or just taking care of what you have and keeping full performance from the machine.


    Adjusting the valves is pretty simple. Just like a car engine. A lock nut and adjust the shaft ... make sure the valve is closed then set the clearance.

    Can probably study the head and determine which valve is working the intake/exhaust. You really just need the spec to adjust them to.


    On one video I watched "mustie1" He was repairing a riding mower with no compression. The valve adjustment was very loose. and the adjusters had a piece of machined hardened steel for the push rod to ride on. So the rest of the valve train was made of mild steel ... cheaper to make.

    When the adjustment got loose enough, the hardened steel piece fell off, the push rod no longer made contact.

    Not saying all engines are like this, just something to be aware of if you see something strange. And why I think it important to spend a few min to inspect once in awhile.


    The rubber plunger on the carburetor is more like a model and manufacturer difference then a age difference.

    I had a 1952 Triumph motorcycle that had a metal plunger on it and sure the older 40's motorcycles had them not sure when it originally came out.

    And my new weed eater I bought 2 months ago has a plunger on it. The plunger has been around in one form or another forever.

    Then my 2 riding mowers  and my pressure washer have choke only on them.  Pressure washer also new this year.


    What your wife says makes a lot of sense sometimes.

    One shop visit you could have as much as the price of a new machine invested in it ... I paid $350 for mine. You are not wrong either.

    I actually like the learning experience. They are very simple machines to work on. You can learn much from them.  Like working on our old cars  for many like myself is relaxing and not stressful.

    You could just replace the engine and get on with your day.  Or diagnose the problem and make a educated decision ... know why you are better off replacing the engine.


  8. Whole lot of information to be learned about setting up a rear end here.

    Whats the goal ... is it going to be original and taken to shows ... thats one way.


    What if you installed a 7:3/4 rear end .... A great rear end if not giving it any power.  Like a flathead 6?

    What if you went up to a mopar 8.75 rear end ... do you really need the strength for the engine you running?


    @Lorenadvice is good. But finding good replacement rear ends or transmissions on older mopar are out of range for many.

    They mentioned a Ford Ranger rear end which I think is a 7.25 ... and 4" to narrow. Nobody ever did that swap and not get laughed at.


    Mopar rear ends are incredible finds today ... you have a mopar you going to need that rear end to be build specific.




    @Loren Just saying, I think this is a scam but I have no proof. While a decent rear end from a Ford or Jeep will run for $200 or less.

    Everything works the same ... the Ford is stronger & it is cheaper. More availability.

    Then we know Mopar never built their own rear ends in this crisis.

    So we just using what works for us in our cars today. Yeah the $2500 car just send your pay pal and fix you right up.

  9. 33 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

    That underperforming shock absorber might be OK

    All I can do is try it and see what happens ... it does ride better then when I had the old shocks on ... It might be ok.


    I hear ya on waiting on tires .... I think my wife wants to make a road trip to Albuquerque 6 hours 1 way.

    We  only live once, if she wants to make a trip I do not want to stop her with a tire purchase.

    She knows I need to slather on the dialect grease and new tires. to make it road worthy .... She wants new tires now and says she has triple A A A if she has issues. Let her go.


    Tire rack has matching tires on the front for $70 each ... I figure is fair.




  10. Just now, Eneto-55 said:

    I WAS kinda' wondering about the valves, if one was stuck.  I should try to check the compression, but need to look up someplace what it should be. 

    I am going to take a stab at compression ... Just like a flathead 6 or any gasoline engine, you kinda need 60 psi for it to run? I am guessing a small engine is pretty close to the same.


    There is a difference on small engines, some have a compression release built in to ease starting.  While others do not.

    My quick research just to get a idea ... A older 1981 horizontal shaft 5 hp flathead briggs & stratton has a compression release built in and a 60 psi compression test is good.


    While a newer 5 hp vertical shaft lawn mower with no compression release shows 80 psi from the factory specs ... and claim you can drop 20% and still have power to cut grass normally.?


    Thinking what you really need to figure out, does your engine have a compression release?


    The other thing about the valves ... You "say it is a older unit" Whats old to you? My Riding mower is a 1994 and 27 years old. It has over head valves.

    Does your engine have overhead valves or is it a flathead?  

    The OHV is a decent design, but a little chincy on heft. Something that needs to be regularly maintained depending on hours you put on it.

    The adjustment will loosen up with time and eventually not open the valve enough, or drop a spacer as it gets too loose. Now the valve will not even move.

    Is a important step on OHV that we never worried about on a flathead.

    That could be your problem. I am in the middle of the 2nd mowing season on my valve adjustment ... working fine .... this winter will go through adjustment again before 3rd season. Not something you have to do weekly, just something to be aware of.


    The Tecumseh is a solid motor. As far as I have heard. You can go to Harbor freight and buy a replacement off shore engine.

    30 years ago I had a Briggs & Stratton 5 hp gas powered air compressor ... I was 24 years old I bought it cheap and eventually ran out of compression and not start. I bought a book, a set of rings & gaskets. With less then $50 invested in it replaced the rings and used it for over a year and sold it for $200 later... was still running great.

  11. Thanks @JBNeal I honestly did not know there was such a thing as priming your shocks.


    Although I did prime it as they suggested just by playing with them.

    When you cut loose the packaging strap you would expect the shock to fully extend. It went about 4" or 1/2 way and stopped.

    I pulled it to fully extended and pushed down about 6 or 8 times to see if it would start working ... still just 1/2 way.

    Let it sit over night and still 1/2 way.

    Then I just collapsed it 6" or so, just the top 1/2 of travel ... still it went 4" and stopped with 2" of travel left.


    So I installed it anyways   :D

    My thoughts are, is so close to the first of the month, I put a few hundred $$ into it this month.

    Before ordering the new tires for the rear, going to wait til after the 1rst and put the tire bill on next month budget.

    I measured ride height at a specific point with old shocks and so far the bad shock the ride height is 1/2" lower then the other side with good shock.  ... I checked this morning and they are both same height.

    It takes all of my 150 pounds to collapse the shock ... just does not expand like it should.

    Maybe let it bounce around on the back of the car for a week will revive it?

    If not will order a new one when I order my tires next week.


    Funny side note, I checked and they are the exact length & bolt size as the new shocks I have for my pilothouse hanging on the wall. I could have installed those .... decided against it.


  12. Gasoline engines ... just as many issues can be possible as we have words in the dictionary.


    I have a new pressure washer bought this spring, means it is cheap off shore junk.

    Used it a few weeks ago and worked fine. The other day I could not get it to start ... I tried ether and nothing so I assumed it was spark.

    I pulled the plug and it was soaking wet ... pulled the rope a few times and liquid squirted out of the plug hole.

    I checked the oil and oil just came overflowing out of the dip stick tube.


    I did not shut off the fuel on the gravity feed tank when I put it away, I assume the float on the carb got stuck and filled the engine with gasoline.

    In fairness, I have a fuel shut off on my John Deere riding mower .... I have never shut it off & never a carb issue. So I did not bother on the pressure washer.

    Now I do shut it off.


    I doubt this is your issue but you did mention it has spark and you just filled the fuel ... at least check the oil & the plug.

  13. On 7/22/2021 at 8:46 AM, Sniper said:


    Yep, learned in the military long ago to clean the connections as a matter of course.  Not always the cause, but it was good preventative maintenance regardless.  As for doing it at the factory, they only have to last till the warranty ends, lol.   

    Appreciate the advice. also @JBNeal I have some electronics cleaner spray ... was going to use that but no clue what to do next. I will use the dielectric grease on it ... may as well take the harness off the computer side and do same.

    Although I went Friday to buy some and Ace did not have it. Looks like a road trip to pick some up.


    I have to change my attitude about my mechanic.

    I had a chance to work on the struts and he did everything he could to adjust them.

    Only thing left I can do is remove them, get the die grinder out and create more adjustment. ... Or replace them.

    So he was correct in saying poor fitment.


    Same time, it appears the camber adjustment should be 1 degree positive? All I can find on the internet.

    The passenger side appears to be set correct. Driver side looks to be about 2 or 2.5 degree positive.

    Not terrible but not perfect ... drives great and will keep a eye on tire wear.


    Kind of disappointed in rockauto right now. Still going to use them ...but I need to be more careful when ordering.


    1, they sent me the wrong fuel pump. They sent what I ordered, but does not fit the car I ordered for.

       I got a better deal through Amazon.

    2, the struts fit, but have room for improvement .... possibly why they are discontinued and marked 1/2 off?

    3,The new rear gas shocks arrived .... I did not order gas. One is dead. Simply takes forever to fully extend.

       Will cost more in shipping to send it back then to just order a new one.

    4, I ordered a Haynes manual for the vehicle. They sent me the spanish version.

    This is just this month on this project.


    Not much left to finish this project for now.


  14. @desoto1939Is correct. My local parts store, Charlie will take me in the back where the hoses are and show which are correct size. Then we look for one that can cut down to fit. The left overs I save and you can cut them down to squares and make nice heavy rubber shims out of for some future use  :)


    You also can buy the universal fit ribbed hoses ... they are kinda sorta period correct and possibly could do what you need. I do not know how many turns you need.

    Today cars all use pre-formed radiator hoses and a mental thing. What we are use to seeing.

    Using the metal tube and 2 hoses is absolutely period correct.  along with the universal hose which is for some reason frowned upon. But ok.


    Awhile back I rebuilt my neighbors cooling system on his 1954 ford with a modern fi 302 installed. It had the metal tube and 2 hoses to the radiator.

    While in the parts store I found a hose that would work and eliminated the metal tube.

    Same time I kept the tube for some future use. I would have no problems using it if needed.

  15. Just now, Plymouthy Adams said:

    why is there a need for a ground connection......the pressure operated switch does not complete any path to ground,

    Lets not nit pick here.


    My only point is if @wagoneerthinks this is quality cleaning. Then we need to have a talk about quality.


    We have a obvious issue with ground when we need to add a jumper wire with alligator clips from battery + ground  to the distributor to get a spark. From what I see it could just be paint insulating the ground? ... needs to be cleaned.


    Now when @wagoneer post a photo of the cleaned master cylinder .... IMHO that master cylinder needs to be cleaned up a whole lot better then that to run on my truck .... evaporust in my experience will not clean it.

    I was only pointing out A: the surface is not clean. B: if you have ground issues, you better clean them better then that.

    I also said nobody would want to run a ground from a master cylinder.  Done properly would probably work fine.


    A good ground needs to be established here. And then double check timing.  Anything coming back through the carb ... while it does happen, it should not.




  16. img2274.jpg.4d4aa73553d5e839ddae71030dc14c90.jpgWhile this may work for your master cylinder .... if the passages are clean.


    Looking at the surface area for the gasket and cover .... Really is not clean enough for a ground connection ...

    Really should be shiny bright metal.

    To be honest I would be more concerned about clean passages then a ground connection.I kinda have my doubts the evaporust is good enough to do either chore.

    If your brakes work as you like, fine I am happy.


    I am only saying it is too rusty and corroded to actually get a good ground off of.

    Not that you would want to use the master cylinder as a ground ....

    If you call that clean you may have ground issues. Also brake issues. It is not clean.


    Clean I believe the bottom reservoir you are showing is cast iron and should be gray.

    The gasket surface can be sanded and cleaned to shiny metal.

    Then there is a steel lid that bolts down on top of it.

    I soaked my master cylinder in a bucket of carburetor cleaner for a few days.


    I am only saying evaporust kinda sucks and does not do a good job. I used it on my key chain.

    I wanted something very mild so I did not damage my memento key chain I bought at a concert 35 years ago.

    Yeah it was too mild and did a poor job. I will need to replace the chain.








    The obvious problem is you have paint!   :D

    I like this style of ground strap, they have heft to them, look period correct. Ground engine to body, then body to frame.

    Anyplace you put a ground, you need to sand off the paint and get to bare metal for a good connection.

    Another tip is to use star washers. They have little barbs on them and when tightened they bite into the metal a bit more.

    Then if wanted you can tape off the cable and paint over the top ... to keep it clean looking.



    the most I have been able to get now is some spit back smoke through the carburetor occasionally, and in the morning it was spitting up all the MMF from the cylinders on a regular basis.  Everything but a bang. "


    Do you mean mmo from the cylinders is coming out the carb?

    Smoke from the carb would give a hint of timing issue, if oil from cylinders is coming out carb you have a timing issue.



    A gasoline engine is a air pump. It sucks air from the carburetor explodes with the fuel/spark, exits through the exhaust.

    It is a one way street the air does not or should not go both directions.

    If anything is coming out of the carburetor, it kinda indicates your intake valves ore opening when your exhaust valves should be opening ... thus timing.


    Possible the distributor is installed 180 degrees out .... but also if the plug wires are clocked 1 position  off.  This is how my truck was and would not start. But a couple of cylinders were firing with the intake valves open and a small amount was coming back through the carb.


    How I now check plug wire installation.

    Pull the pipe plug on #6 cylinder.

    Lay a tiny square of toilette paper over the hole, rotate the engine by hand and when that cylinder builds compression will blow the paper off the hole. This cylinder is coming on TDC and ready to fire.

    Now insert your long 12" wire through the hole and rotate back and forth a few degrees.... Make sure you did not go past TDC.

    Now remove your distributor cap and the rotor should be pointing at #6 wire to fire that cylinder.


    I tried to start my truck for 2 days and found I needed to rotate my wires clockwise 1 position and then it started.


    Then of course fix your ground issue.

    If your 00 cable is not making a good ground, you can imagine a 12 awg wire is not much of a ground and may not be adequate?


  18. Even possible it was the carb causing the issue before it was rebuilt .... Now it is fine.

    Did @librado65 change the oil while getting the carb rebuilt?


    Why I am not so quick to jump on the re-builder of the carb. I certainly suggest to inspect it closely.

    I think this is a learning experience in life. Lucky I learned on a old truck worth $200 at the time.

    Loss of the engine on a old classic like this sucks. And not cheap.


    @Sniper may be correct here. 

    Another example just 2 days ago. I wanted to use my new pressure washer, worked fine last time I put it away. Now wont start, either makes no difference so I think it is spark issue ... it sounds clunky. I check the spark plug and just saturated.I pull the cord to turn it over and liquid sprays out of the plug hole.   I pull the dip stick and the crank case oil just pours out all over the driveway.

    I simply forgot to turn off the fuel supply on the gravity feed tank and filled the engine with gas.

    I finally got it started yesterday and used it a few times, it seems to be ok.  Was a real job to get it started again.


    Some people may have never ran into this issue before. Sometimes is easy to point fingers, when you may actually be the blame yourself.




  19. I was thinking the same as @knuckleharley At very minimum double check that carb before installing on next engine.


    I had a old beater 1961 dodge sweptline with a slant 6. It's main duty was to collect garbage and drive it to the dump 2 or 3 times a month.

    Then later started driving it more since one of the other cars was down.


    One day wife was driving it down the freeway and heard a explosion ... pulled over thinking she blew a tire .... it was running fine so she took off again.

    Later on I looked at it to see what I could find. I had to stand on the fender to pull out the dipstick to check the oil. It literally was 1" shorter and curled up ... I had to straiten it as I pulled it out. It was a crank case explosion from a leaky carb.


    As a 25 year old kid with a family, I put on a junk yard carb, changed the oil and replaced the dip stick ... drove it a couple more years.

    I suspect you had the same thing happen, except yours destroyed the engine.

  20. Congratulations,  you just found something to study and learn.

    Not trying to be a arse ... just saying you need to learn this. The info is available and you are in the right place.


    When I ordered my new tank and sending unit from Tanks   The lady answering the phone asked questions ... I was very specific about being 6 volt + ground.

    She scolded me like a old school marm and said it did not matter. Just saying she sold the units for years and she said it does not matter 6 or 12 or + or - the sending unit will work for my application.

    Not saying she was bossy, she just really sounded confident in her opinion.


    My only point is, the fuel gauge on some cars do not depend on 6 or 12 volt or + /- ground.

    Some cars like maybe your Chrysler have 2 wires going to the sending unit. And I have no clue about these sending units ...  You need to study this a bit.

    I even think it matters on a Ford or a chevy, you need to add a reducer to drop it from 12 volt to 6 volt.

    Your 12 volt battery in the trunk probably should not be connected to your fuel sending unit.

  21. Just now, Plymouthy Adams said:

    eliminate a lot of the guess and gain access to properly do the valves at the same time.....pull the head and read the gasket, the valves seats/faces and inspect the cylinder wall etc at the same time...

    Has great advice here. Pull the head, oil the valves inspect all ... I think I paid $100 for a engine rebuild gasket set from napa.

    But we have 2 different styles of advice here.


    imho the motor been rebuilt. It should be good unless it had sat outside or had access to water.

    Back in the day a farmer would hook a chain to it and tow it around the field until the compression came up and the engine started.

    I am that person.


    Others think you should disassemble the engine and go from there.

    The issue is so common for a engine sitting for years.

    I say get it running then decide to tear it apart ... others say tear it apart first.

    Is this a driver or a museum piece?


    I would think a 1962 falcon station wagon hauling it around a field would be appropriate to get the engine running.

  22. Nice job on checking the compression. You are in great shape and will be some work ... you got this!

    First off, the old school rings when sitting. They tend to freeze or get gummed up ... their job is to open up and seal the oil/compression.

    But with old oil and sitting, they just do not move.

    Working properly they expand & contract with heat and rotate around the ring landings in the piston. This seals the compression in the cylinder.

    But sitting for awhile, you may need to use some marvel mystery oil, some atf/acetone 50/50 in the cylinders to free up the rings and get them rotating again.


    The cylinder with zero compression is normal. Same cure. The valve stem pass through the valve guide. The narrow passage of the guide it gets gummed up, valve stays open and spring does not pull it back down.

    Just a common problem ... first engine I touched had stuck valves on 5 cylinders. Just a common issue.


    If you can get the engine to start, do a few heat cycles the valves & rings will free up.

    Soak it up in oil for a few days, then try again. Then run another compression check and see where you going ... then again later.

    You may end up pulling it back down and working on it.

    But the compression you posted kinda sounds normal for a engine sitting awhile. Will improve with heat cycles..

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