JohnS48plm

Some are already gathered at the host hotel. Mark and I are doing a pretour through northern Ontario.

On Wednesday from 5-8 pm the Gilmore Car Museum in Hickory Corners MI has a cruise night. It's free to get in for both participants and spectators. They have food, ice cream and beer for sale. There is live music also. Last summer there was over 1100 cars one night. normally there are 500 or so. I enjoy this cruise a lot more than the sit around all day car shows. 
 

Is your gas cap vented?

I can think of at least one worse thing than a bunch of clicks. 
Personally I just don't see the need for this on the maintenance list. My coupe is approaching 30k since the rebuild on the same head gasket. Horror of horrors I also reused the old head bolts 

I used Northwest Transmission for the 2 ODs I rebuilt.

P 15 Picnic USA (well Canada actually) will take place September 15 through 18 in the Niagara region of Ontario.  We will not be visiting  the falls as part of the tour due to traffic and parking issues. You are encouraged  to arrive a day early, or extend an additional day and make your Falls viewing session on your own.
 
Hotel info, and tour highlights will be coming shortly.  This will be a truely International event by location, and participants, as several of our friends from England have indicated they will be attending.
 
Although designed  and engineered for P15 and D24 cars, all Chrysler brands of any year, and orphaned brands of the 30s through 70s are welcomed to join us for the tour.
 
For more information, and to get updates as announced email Mark@rdusaclassics.com 
 
Hope to see you in Ontario in September. 

When I built my engine I used a mixture of half STP and half motor oil for an assembly lube. I dunked the pistons in it before I put them in and coated all the bearings with it. The engine now has about 15000 miles on it , it runs smooth and doesn't burn any oil.

I aways like to have an extra coil, Carburetor, and tire pump.

I used an allen screw with a diameter the same as the pin and a shoulder that was the length of the pin. I put a locknut on the the screw , I think it was 10-32. I got this at a local hardware.

75 years ago today, a red Plymouth convertible rolled off the line in Detroit. Delivered to Gettysburg Motors in Pennsylvania, it stayed in the same town until 2004 when I imported it to the UK.
Still beautiful, but certainly no powder puff, last weekend it was put through its paces at Prescott Hill Climb.
 

Got a new GPS, his first trip in the  Coupe will be this evening to the local cruise in.  Just got him Sat from a rescue.  His name is Crash, his story is he fell or jumped off a truck at 65 or higher, truck left the scene.  Broke his left rear. Picked up by a good samaritan. Seems to be healed up well.  Still a little bewildered by last few weeks of challanges.  Shelter listed him as Airedale terrier, but his size is more in line with a Welsh terrier characteristics 13 inches tall 21 pounds, at 6 months.  He seems to be a good rider so far in our other cars.  Hope he gets on well in the Plymouth. 

I had a fuel pump pin fall out years ago. I went to a hardware and found an allen head screw with a shoulder a little longer than the pin and a diameter the same as the pin. I installed it with washers and a locknut and never had the problem again.

After being screwed by a so called engine rebuilder many years ago when I had the original engine in my 1940 Dodge supposedly rebuilt which lasted less than 1000 miles before I discovered that the crank journals were scored(sump was full of swarf which hadn't been cleaned out) I vowed never to pay these jerks again to "rebuild" an engine for me, so when I decided to get the 318 Poly I'd subsequently installed in the 1940 Dodge rebuilt I disassembled the engine myself and learnt how to measure things........then took the block, crank etc to a different and more reliable machine shop......had them do the work including balancing then I picked up and assembled the lot and reinstalled the engine.........been going strong since 1975.......and no, I was not a mechanic,just a humble government clerk who just decided that I couldn't do a worse job than these "butchers" so decided to teach myself, got a workshop manual, proper tools and had a go........yeh, I was young, bright eyed and bushy tailed but these old engines are not rocket science, by all means get a proper machine shop to do the work but assemble it yourself...........its very satisfying and rewarding...........Andyd     

Hey folks my engine rebuild is progressing along. Internals are done. I am pretty-ing things up now as I move to the bolt on items.  
 
The manifolds, I want to clean them up and paint them. I have full access to industrial media blasting equipment . Yet I am cautious about glass-beading anything on an engine. 1 tiny piece of glass bead can do a lot of damage if it gets left behind.  Somehow finding its way into a cylinder or an oil pump. 
 
I am interested in learning what you did to clean up both intake and exhaust manifolds. I was thinking degrease the  intake. Wire brush the rough stuff off . Maybe a little sandpaper. Mask off the ports and spray paint it. 
 
Exhaust manifold, I’d like it black with high temp paint I think. It has lots of dry flaky rust on the surfaces. Sand blast would likely work great. But…
 
Tips appreciated. Thx.  Keith
 
 
 
 

Hershey is always fun. That was a good score.

Wish I'd seen that years ago when I ended up taking mine to a repair shop.

Thank you so much to the great members on this forum for the help, advice and direction which has helped get my 1935 Plymouth PJ back on the road and driving.
 
Not sure how many members here shoot film with large format cameras, but it is a passion that goes hand in hand with vintage cars/trucks.  A few days ago the Plymouth posed for a few images taken with a Blair field view 5 x 7 camera (vintage 1890) on black and white film.
 
Thought sharing a few images might be fun.

That is called the weep hole. It's supposed to be there. Just leave it. If/when the pump dies that's where it will leak. The plug supplied goes in either of those two holes for whichever doesn't match your heater hose setup. Your 52 should use the one you currently have plugged and the other output should be plugged. 

Herb really gets into the meat. Pretty deep. I quite like his writing and delivery.  This new found book and knowledge, should really help my trouble shooting skills overall. 

Herb Ellinger who wrote the book was one of the teachers for automotive engineering when I went to Western Michigan University.   

You need to make some guide bolts for installing the trans. Find two bolts the same thread as the bell housing with the unthreaded portion about 5 inches. Cut off the head and cut a slot in the end. Screw these into the bellhousing top holes then slide the transmission in on them. Use a screwdriver in the slots to remove the guide bolts. 

Will do. Great idea.

We've been cruising Saturday nights. Someone caught this pic last one. 

 
And this one a few weeks before. Most Saturdays I've been going with the neighbor and trading driving duties. 

Well, that's one way to lower your car by 2 inches.  We don't go camping but we do try to do at least one long road trip a year. E do end up with a trunk full in the business coupe. Coleman stove, small Webber, 24 quart cooler, tool box, travel parts kit in an old picnic hamper, chairs, pop-up shelter,  couple quarts of oil, floor jack,  couple carry-on bags and some groceries. And dog supplies when out mutt came along.  Most of out trips will cover 800 to 1500 miles on blue roads on the maps. Waiting for a bit of a cooldown, and awaiting this year's p15 picnic in September.