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John H.

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Everything posted by John H.

  1. Hi John, I don't know where they are manufactured. I didn't ask. Maybe someone else out there knows?
  2. It is a very nice truck you have. Bernbaum shipped the shackles out today. This is my 53.
  3. I just bought 2, rear of rear spring, shackles from Andy Bernbaum. I had ordered some stuff from Vic's Garage recently and had asked them about shackles. They said the outfit that manufactures them had been falling behind due to all of the Covid fallout. John
  4. Thanks Tom, I knew that I'd seen something to the affirmative on on both being exchangeable. Will start looking now. John
  5. I need spring shackles for the rear of the front leaf springs. Somewhere I have heard that the rear spring shackles will fit the front. I have nothing to compare with as the front shackles are missing altogether. The previous owner used steel strapping to create his own. Any help would be appreciated?
  6. I found a machine shop about 70 miles away. Our local one closed about 4 years ago and I was heading to a doctors appointment in that town anyway so I thought I'd look. The brake drum is compromised, though he says he could straighten it out. There is a hair line crack forming around the face at the rim so it is a safety issue. He did say that he could machine a couple of drums if I want to go that route? Thanks to JB Neal's post I told him of Fowl Jeff using Raybestos drums to build his own. I'll post my findings if anyone is interested?
  7. Note. It worked once I turned off my VPN. Thanks.
  8. My apologies, ggdad1951, I cannot get a classified wanted ad to work for some reason. Maybe I am missing something?
  9. WOW! Wish I had this info earlier as I just screwed up my drum. John
  10. Well, it's time to fess up. I wasn't able to get to putting the drum in my press until Saturday. I put a piece of pipe beneath the drum for support. I then hit the studs with Kroil Oil and let them sit overnight. Next morning, Sunday, I heated the area around one stud with a MAP gas torch and attempted to press out the stud. End result, I bent one side of the top and the damned stud never budged. Hmmm, I don't feel any better having confessed! The thought of reheating the drum and trying to reshape it from the inside has occurred to me. The thought of being laughed off this forum for having that thought has also occurred, as I figure the structural integrity of said drum has now been compromised. Anyway, I am now looking for a left rear drum for a 3/4 ton.
  11. Looked back at Rock Auto and saw what you referred to regarding 1/2 and 3/4" studs. Can't rely on what a dealer claims on their website. The Dorman and Autozone websites claim they won't fit, but how far back is their information accurate? I will put a drum in the press this afternoon and pop out a stud to measure and take to Autozone and Napa.
  12. I am looking at, https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1953,truck,3.6l+218cid+l6,856,wheel,lug+stud,7680. For the cost I think I'll take a chance and order 20.
  13. Thanks for the help. Yeah, $20.00 a pop isn't a deal by anyone's standards. That's $400.00 for 20 studs which I find pretty unbelievable. You've passed along a good lead and I appreciate it. John
  14. I have a couple of 1/2 ton, B-model, brake drums sitting on the shelf. They use the right and left hand threaded mounting bolts. My 3/4 ton uses, what I understand, 9/16 -18 x 1" thread length studs which are a press fit from inside the drum. I want to replace all of the studs with new right hand thread units and nuts. Does anyone have a source for these replacement studs and nuts?
  15. I have noticed that Inline Tube has an 8 piece brake line kit for a 1948, 3/4 ton, B-series Dodge truck. Since they do not list for any of the other B-series trucks I am wondering if that kit will fit my 1953 3/4 ton or are there differences between the 48 to 53 models? Thanks, John
  16. I guess that's what happens when you're working on an old vehicle. Every owner has made their mark somewhere along the line. I'm just going to take my time, photograph everything, and take notes. Again, I appreciate the help and input, and I wish you all well with all of the crap that's going on. John.
  17. Hello, and thanks for the responses. Again, I have a 3/4 ton truck and the drums with studs and nuts. I am not planning on changing them out. The drums I purchased with the parts lot, I agree, will be for a 1/2 ton truck and it makes sense that this is the drum difference between them. Digging through the catalogs I feel the shoes, wheel cylinders and miscellaneous other parts should work on my truck as they are the same part numbers for both the 1/2 and 3/4 ton units. I feel like I still came out ahead as I can sell the 1/2 ton drums. I also have a set of drums from the rear end of a Chrysler, approximately 1948 if anyone's interested? Los Control, am I wrong in thinking I've seen trucks running 11" drums in the rear and 10" in the front? Again, thanks much for the help. John
  18. I recently picked up some used brake drum parts for my 53, B-4-C truck from a seller on eBay. They were advertised for a 1948-53 truck and it appears to be what I need as far as the shoes and cylinders go. The deal also came with the backing plates and drums. Now, though the drums appear to be the same as mine dimension-wise they use wheel bolts instead of studs and nuts. Mine have the studs and nuts and I am wondering when Dodge went from bolts to studs on these trucks? Did someone swap drums at some point on my truck or is it correct? Are the drums I bought actually from a car of that period and not a truck? Trust me, I feel stupid for asking the question but I couldn't find anything searching elsewhere. Thanks, John
  19. I thank you for your time in helping me. I have the drums off and will work on yanking an axle to be sure of the spline count. I'll also work on same for the 48 Chrysler axle and post my findings. By the way, if anyone is interested, I had a post sometime back about parts washers. I thought I'd buy my own and wasn't sure if I would go water or solvent based. (I heat my shop with an interior wood burning furnace.) The thought was that the solvent based units would work better, though getting rid of the dirty fluid would present a major problem. Well, I ran across a Safety Kleen driver while we were both having lunch at a local eatery. Turns out I now rent a new 30 gal. drum unit with a good sized tub for $130.00 per 6 months. That's $22.00 a month and someone else changes the fluid and filters. Just thought I'd pass this along.
  20. How many axle splines on a 53 B-4-C? I am getting mixed messages in trying to find an answer. Some claim 10 spline axles were replaced by 15 spline axles in 53. Thanks.
  21. This is to the Missouri guys out there. I live in south central Missouri about 100 miles from Springfield and 50 miles from Rolla. Can anyone recommend a shop that can do differential work? Have a 4:10 and want to get in the 3:90's to 3:50's ring and pinion. I have a rear from a 48 Chrysler which I believe is a 3:54 ratio. Not sure if it'll swap out. I also wan to farm out the brakes on the same 53, 3/4 ton I have. Any help is greatly appreciated as I would like to get it on the road this summer. Thanks, John H.
  22. Bobacuda, Thanks for the info you gave, and for the follow up from JBNeal. It will prove useful as I have not started wiring yet. John
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