classiccarjack

Please send in photos, I am wanting to do a overhead set also on my 1934 Plymouth PG and my 1934 Dodge KCL.  If this works out well for your car, then I will do the same on mine.

On 10/6/2018 at 11:48 AM, jgreg53 said:

would a v8 motor fit in my 48 p15 sedan with stock frame, or is a subframe swap the only way?

 

Since you started this topic, I would like to follow up with you....  How are things going with your car?

On 10/14/2018 at 5:52 PM, dndrodshop said:

You can put anything in anything. I've been running a 440 RB block in my P15 sedan since 1989.  I did move the firewall back a little, upgrade the brakes, change to a rack and pinion, and an 8-3/4 rear end.  But I still have stock A-arm suspension.. 

Great call on keeping the original front suspension.   They work very well.  I bet with your 440, that car really moves.

8 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

I went to the garage and tested the fuel pump again.  I was doing a couple of things wrong.  First, I forgot to remove the plugs on the in and out ports.  I tested it again and it does suck air now.  I just have to push the lever with a lot of force.  My old fuel pump, which was working in 1980 now is frozen and the lever doesn't move.   

That's great news.

great info guys...  

2 hours ago, DonnieT said:

Thanks guys.

.  The more I dig into the hemi, the more expensive it sounds. 

    I found a 67 belvy 4dr for cheap that I think I could use the 273 and trans and even the rear end out of for my 48. I think I'm gonna jump on that for now. The motor ran well when parked about 8 years ago. Sounds like the rear end is one of the closest fits to the 48 as well.

    I may have to open a new thread for advice with the 67 Belvy.

DonnieT

You can always go back to the Hemi later and adapt it to the 1967 Transmission.  Hopefully it is a 727.  Let us know....

On 5/5/2020 at 11:15 AM, Adam H P15 D30 said:

The offset really isn't an issue.  If your running a low HP engine the Cherokee axle will be fine, if you're going to put any power down the 8.8 would be a better option.  Most V8 transplants require an offset to the right anyhow.

 

If I  make changes, it will be to a 8 3/4".  It's my favorite axle set up.

On 1/29/2015 at 6:35 PM, 48ply1stcar said:

I see on The Ranger Station, link from Smokybear that their is mention of a 2 inch offset.   Does it in anyway affect the drive shaft tunnel, or is that something that is a nominal amount.

 

With progress getting slower and slower I'm allready a year behind just on getting the engine runnig with a front seat back in the car.

 

Anyone in favor of the Cherokee rear axle?

That "offset" is what turns me off in regards to the 8.8 conversion.  It looks weird from the rear of the car.  I know it works...  But...

On 10/27/2019 at 11:49 PM, Loren said:

When I bought the 265 I also bought a 237.

Today I got it apart and found that its is in beautiful shape.

The crank is standard and the pistons have the DPCD stamp on the top.

It has sodium cooled valves which I was surprised to see.

Another thing that surprised me is that under the Brass Chrysler industrial tag I found that it was painted silver before it was painted Industrial red.

The purist in my nature wondered if I should repeat this odd situation.

When I get the 265 crank back its going in the 237 block with .010 over pistons.

There's an old fellow nearby who has a pretty incredible warehouse full of NOS parts (for all cars).

I am pretty certain he has most of the parts I need. When I get to talking to him I'll find out more.

Please let us know if he has some parts that we can buy the off of him.  

2 hours ago, Loren said:

Great News!

I have been in contact with the gentleman who has been selling the new Thickstun/Tattersfield Plymouth manifolds on eBay.

He reports that Frank Boran the man who is making the Plymouth manifold we have much admired, is dusting off the patterns for the Chrysler/DeSoto manifold!

He expects to have them in production later this year.

He has placed my name on the list of potential buyers...so there is a list and if you might want one you really should get on the list.

I'd go to eBay, search for Thickstun Intake Manifold find the new Plymouth manifolds and then contact seller to get on the list.

If you're not sure about the Thickstun, then type in Offenhauser intake Manifold and see what they look like....you'll want the Thickstun believe me.

 

Great news for sure!  I got lucky and bought up some extra George Ashe Junior manifolds for both engines.  I just wish that I could find a cool manifold for my straight 8....

On 10/25/2019 at 7:48 PM, HotRodTractor said:

I'd love to see some pictures of the fuel pump and hydraulic pump setup.

I also have a 265 Industrial engine (block was cast in 1967). It has a chain driven cam and has a hydraulic pump mounted and driven off the front of the crank (I also have a 230 Industrial that is setup the same way...). I haven't stripped mine down yet - not sure if I will - it has good compression, runs well, and came out of a combine that only had 300 hours on the hour meter.... I kind of believe it too.... the farm that had it must of bought it in 1968, and by 1974 they were bankrupt and sold everything except for 15 acres about 9 of it was tillable ground. They did continue to make some wheat and soybeans up until 2005 on that ground - not sure when they stopped using the combine though, it was several years before that point.

I also have a Industrial 230, powers my 1969 Pettibone Forklift.  Awesome machine, and runs fantastic!

11 minutes ago, Sniper said:

the clips from the later Mopars don't look like the one pictured. 

 

https://www.manciniracing.com/zbarballparts.html

They are completely different, I never had a car have one of those early clips missing...  Thank God...  I wish that I knew where one could be easily found.

I am really enjoying following along here.  I can't wait to get enough free time to put into my Plymouth.

1 hour ago, Andydodge said:

The original bearing halves are a diecast zinc alloy, however I know that hard white plastic versions are available, exactly the same size and shape as the metal ones.......at least the plastic ones are available here in Oz as the Oz Valiants with manual trans used these on the mechanical clutch linkage at least till the early 70's.....I would have thought that the plastic versions were originally ex US mopar parts as US mopars used mechanical clutches again till at least the mid 70's AFAIK.............andyd 

You are spot on Andydodge!

JSabah, you can call Brewers Performance and order the plastic pieces(if needed), the Mopar Muscle cars used them in the "Z" bars well into the 1970's.  However, if you have the metal halves, keep those.  Don't forget to grease everything up really well when you assemble it. 

The clutch torque shaft retainer clips may also be available at Brewers, but I don't know for sure.  I fortunately have never lost one, and never needed to search for one.  Sorry for not being useful on the last part....

On 1/27/2020 at 8:21 PM, Sniper said:

Small town advantage to me.  ?

I actually get the best of both worlds....

Small townville Kansas and San Diego...

On 12/5/2019 at 2:02 PM, Andydodge said:

Classic............where do I send the cheque.........lol.............thanks mate.......andyd

Remember, it's only 3 payments of $19.95. And if you order now, I will throw in a pat on the back for free!  A value of at least another twenty bucks for FREE!!!

Plus shipping and handling...  

Muhahaha....   LOL...

No worries Andy, I am not shy to share my thoughts.  You have been wonderful here, I always enjoy your insight and experience that you share here with everyone.

On 12/4/2019 at 9:36 AM, gunnibronco said:

I've had some great help on the Hamb.

It's the same on my early Bronco and 4x4 forums.  The larger the audience, the better chance you'll get bad info or someone who bashes your build.  The smaller forums, with specific focus do tend to give better, less judgmental information.  It might just take longer. 

I am so glad to help you find a later Hemi, what a fun adventure. 

You are a awesome guy, I am glad that we connected. 

I can't wait until your shop is built, I want to see that Plymouth on the road!  

On 1/1/2020 at 7:23 PM, pflaming said:

Rusty Hope kit, fits the first time every time. Save your time and order a kit. That’s my recommendation. 

Looks very practical.

2 hours ago, 48ply1stcar said:

I bought a Cherokee rear axle Monday and drop it off at a driveline shop.  I'll drive the car there when there ready to perform the transplant.  While on the Plymouth Owners Club facebook page an owner of a 49 Dodge Wayfarer said that he used the Scarebird kit and stock rear and ECI MC and only used a metering valve and residual check valves.  I've wanted the Cherokee rear axle longer than I wanted disc brakes.  But now I'll feel better not using the original brakes that I meticulously rebuilt 25-years-ago.

 

From the POC FB page.

Can you please update us with the outcome when you are done with pictures?  

I usually dream up my own stuff, but a few years back, I had help from Scarebird(I believe) to do a conversion on a off topic A100 Van.  Used his brackets on a 11" Drum Brake Spindle.  Used 1972 Ford LTD Rotors(needed a spacer for the inner bearing btw), 1997 Dodge 1500 truck calipers, and figured out the rest on my own....  Worked very well.

I really want to not overthink my Plymouth conversion.  This topic will help me make better decisions.  Since I closed my shop 10 years ago, and my old source Plydo is gone, I no longer have anyone to brainstorm with...  I really look forward to see how you guys get it done the way that works best for you.  

On 1/7/2020 at 6:04 AM, 48ply1stcar said:

I received my Scarebird kit and all the parts yesterday from a member who decided to go all ECI.  Can't wait to start.  The only problem is I have is a unheated garage in Minnesota and Spring doesn't come as early as it once did.  I rebuilt the front suspension the summer of 2017 with new kinpins and springs.

 

 

That car is a beauty.

Have you had a chance to get further along with the car?

On 1/26/2020 at 7:04 PM, n1gzd_plymouth said:

diff housing seal. we think corrosion is preventing the new seal from sealing (old seal matched the corrosion). will revisit in spring. 

Rebecca

I hope that your second attempt will be successful.  I have used crocus cloth and 1200 Grit sandpaper to repair rusted shafts.  But if there is one available, always try to find a speedy sleeve(seal saver) first.  

Let us know how things go Rebecca. 

Hi Rich,

After you install the new Alternator, can you please send in some pictures?

4 hours ago, moose said:

Hmm...  

 

Wanna donate one to the cause?

Those aren't cheap...  That's for sure.

On 12/5/2019 at 8:16 AM, mrwrstory said:

I had the same "cop car" rims on my car.  They also accommodate various Mopar hubcaps.  Nice upgrade with 60's profile radials.  I'll try to find a pic.  Not so sure 'tho with wide whites.

I am considering possibly using these rims on my wife's 1937 Plymouth Panel Project.  A knucklehead cut out a portion of the original frame to mount "Corvair" suspension...  BOO!  I can't go back to original because of this butchery.  I am thinking Volare front clip with cop car rims and a Red Ram Hemi....

Mrwrstory, please check your PM.