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etzmolch

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Everything posted by etzmolch

  1. My solution in 2017. Still working without problems.
  2. I am thinking of galvanic corrosion with a brass tube in a cast iron engine block ... I used the AB tube with out problems in installation... With the periodical coolant change and the right mixture ratio of coolant and water, the problem of corrosion on the steel tube is minimized or zero. The most coolant brands and car manufactures request a periodical change not only to sell coolant or the change service...
  3. I replaced the old cork float with a plastic type from yunk yard with approx. same size. Cutted both steel wires and soldering the "new" one with a smale sleve to the old steel wire. Works fine.
  4. Made my owen by designing and 3d-printing. Not original but working...
  5. Always a point of view. If you grow up with one system it’s easy for you to use it and hard to use the other one. But with some practice you can use both systems. At least with the bolt and wrench sizes starting from 1/4”...
  6. I do have a AAJ Brake kit using the following parts for front brake: Rotors, bearing & seals: 76 Dodge Dart Calipers & pads: 72 Charger Hoses :76 Monte Carlo To find this parts here in Europe shouldn't be a problem. For caliper bracket I can send a drawing for cutting because didn't installed the disc brake yet.
  7. Thanks guys for your offers. This will help no question. Fortunately I bought last year a complete drive unit from a forum member from Sweden. (Was a really nice trip btw.) So at least did not see the car in the garage only. Swapped the engine and can drive this summer. But the other was the original one (same number as on the chassis) and I want this one back in the car. @Andy You are absolutely right, trust nobody. Unfortunately the plan from the beginning was to let the workshop do all the machining and assemble the engine my self. The opportunity I have.... So wrong decision I made at this point... But I thought when they do I can focus to all the other things. Will not happen again. Regards Andre
  8. Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. I am aware about the high shipping cost and the possibility to get a scrap crankshaft. I did also check some companies who are able to build up the journals by welding but all said me the risk is on my side because they don't know the material composition of the crankshaft. Will investigate further to see what is possible. The engine was rebuilt in a "professional" workshop. After high oil consumption I decided to remove the head and the surprise: I didn't find any honed cylinder walls (after ~2500mls), honed surface completely gone. Contacted the workshop, they removed one connecting rod and the connecting rod journal is rutted. Unfortunately the crankshaft was grinded to the last possible value. First answer from them.: Engine got dust... I ask how dust can enter the engine? After a lot of discussion I made an oil analysis. Really less silicate was found but a lot of metal residues. Now the components, I bought are the problem, or the wrong oil or, or.... They did all right. I did wrong. Still in "fight" with them...
  9. Can anybody tell me where I can find a good usd crankshaft for a 230 Dodge Engine with fluid drive? My was grinded to the last possible value and can't be used any further. Thanks Andre
  10. Fastest shop for shipping to Germany. 4-5dys with the lowest shipping cost. Other shops need 2wks and more. And no issues with customs clearance.
  11. After a engine change I had a noise from my old transmission which wasn't there before. The only difference was to put this seal (approx. .03) in between. Today I added additional shims and the noise gone. So my thinking was maybe this gasket is really thick(.08 or more). There must be a a difference between the bell housing lengths from a '49s to a '50s engine. Both are fluid drives and I used the bell housing came with the '49s.
  12. Can anyone tell me the thickness of this gasket? Thanks, Andre
  13. Thanks. Looks not bad for this was asking.
  14. Can anybody tell me what’s the name of the openings in the fender as seen on the picture? Do they have a deeper meaning or just show? Thanks André
  15. For this I want to bypass the electrical fuel pump with a check valve in the line of the tank to the mechanical fuel pump.
  16. Car is running great. First 1200mls are on the odo. Just came back from a 300mls trip this weekend. No issues except with gasoline. Looks like the gas pump can't deliver enough but is new. A deeper investigation is necessary. I asume the extra electrical pump is the problem because is directly in line with the mechanical one. Oil consumption is normal. Everything else working perfect. Thanks for asking. Andre
  17. Thanks to all. My son and daughter (three & six yrs old) smiling the whole time when they are on a trip with me.
  18. ...that I got my car back to road. Want to say thank you for this great forum and the help of all posts while looking for information during restoration and the answered questions I ask. First 250 mls I drove and hope a lot more will be added... Andre
  19. Did a king pin and bushing replacement last week and had the same issues to get the king pin through the support. The pins were .03mm too big in diameter. Bought on same place. Took me two hours to grind them down to fit in the supports. Also the "pocket" for the pin which keep the king pin in place is not equal compared to the old one. Must drive the pin deeper to get a thight king pin in the support. I can not recomend to buy the king pin set from A.Bernbaum.
  20. I used this MC with bracket I made myself. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-7563 Not tried yet beacuse of winter here and some isues with the rear end.... Andre
  21. The speedi-sleeve is exactly for this purpose. Wall-thicknes is 0.28mm ~ .011" of the SKF ones. Oil seals usually can handle this. I see you said you get a nos leather one but se no reason why it should not work with those too if do the same procedure as described in the shop manual for new leather oil seals.
  22. Did it last week on the diff. hub. The best you can do, as Dodgeb4ya said and dead easy. They recommend to use some kind of metal filler and then install the sleve, if the grooves are to deep,
  23. Oh yes you are right. It took some time but it was it worth. I learned a lot. Now solving the bearing seat issue and I am ready for a test drive this spring.
  24. Thanks for the replies. I will try to find somebody around me who can build up the seat by metal spraying or at least by welding and milling back to the diameter necessary. If I have no luck I will try the "punching method" with some "bearing glue" until I find a replacement axle. @Plymouthy Adamsb.t.w. I found replacement rear drums from a Jeep Cheerokee which fit to the rear axle with some work to the drums and also with new studs which I did myself on a lathe. The goal was, that the drums are available here in Germany so I ordered them, took some messurements and found out these drums are good to go. Now I ended up with the problem as described above (Solved one and digged up the next..., but I am almost at the end with restauration... rear axle was the last piece I didn't touch so far). Regards Andre
  25. I wantetd to replace the outer rear axle bearings as well as the seals. Unfortunately the outer ring on the right side came out with out pulling force, I meassuared the seat and there is approx. 0.02" of play between outer bering ring and the seat. Does anybody know how I can repair the seat or had somebody the same issue an can give me some advice? Thanks in advance! Andre
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