kridgleyud

I'll be following this! I have the same issues with my D14 inst. panel. From what I can gather, the Dodge cluster was only for Dodge, for 1 year and only in the cars. The 1939 Plymouth is close ... but would need to check the spacing of the small to large gauges to verify they fit behind the openings of the dash. @bryan that second link is the cluster from a 1939 dodge

Hello Folks still following this ... motor was installed Sunday, just getting around to uploading pics to this thread. Couple hiccups but nothing major. this motor has the oil pan sump forward ... so had to remove a steering arm temporarily until I put on the original pan ... need to clean up and paint to match. Hoping the pickup doesn't need to move, but this is doable if needed. She went in pretty easy and looking good. I've got the old oil pump that I knocked the drive gear off of to prime her ... need to work out accelerator linkage, recheck torques, fittings and the static timing and get ready to fire it up. stay tuned.

@Bryan Here is a photo of the right angle pump with Langdons Headers.

thanks folks. I'm looking at the external tank now and will rather have the insurance than ruining a fresh motor but cutting corners.

Folks. I'm going to be priming a rebuilt motor ... Oil pump already installed. I read that the starter can be used to crank motor with plugs out. Can this be done with a 6v starter and 12v battery? Car is going to be 12v long term but I also read that the original starters are OK running 12v if you do not crank them long. Would this put me in the cranking too long range? Thanks all.

I was thinking about some high-temp engine clear

Another bite out of the elephant if you will. Here's where I ended last night .... springs and a arms back on and installed the new caliper mounts, hubs and loose fit the steering. I think I'm going to clear coat the hubs to help keep them beautiful ... this weekend I plan to mount the shock mounts to the frame and set the motor in to start getting her ready to breath life.

@Bryan my stock pump fits. If you have the right angle pump with bowl mounted under it mounts ... its tight, but fits. The fuel pumps with the bowls coming out almost parallel to the ground, it will certainly interfere with the exhaust.

No show car per-say .... but will be as clean as I can get it as it goes back together. if you start from clean, it'e easier to keep clean! She'll be driven as she should. To shows of course, but also to work and to just get coffee sometimes.

Hey everyone. Another brief update. If i keep updating, I won't let this stall again! Finished the upper and lower control arms and got them mounted. King pins then the steering knuckles and springs are next ... then it will have everything I place to reconnect steering arms and mount the pickup style shock mounts.

I'm in the middle of the front end on my '40 ... for what it's worth - I went with the scarebird kit as there were no modifications to the knuckle needed and would work with my stock wheels. For the master cylinder I went with the pedal kit offered by ECI. This replaces the pedal pivot point, retains stock pedals and location while allowing you to run a dual reservoir master cylinder. Stay tuned ont he 1940 build thread as I'm working on the suspension parts going back on. Once on, I'll be doing the brakes.

Another quick bit of progress. Had a package waiting for me yesterday ... got the clutch parts back from Tennessee Clutch and Supply. I cannot say enough about this guy. He was extremely helpful over the phone and I just had to send off the old parts, he called me a couple days later and it was on the way back. Installed the bearing, disc and pressure plate last night, looks great. Finished that up and fiddled with the steering knuckles ... having trouble getting the old kingpin bushings out - and knowing that the new ones need to be honed, I'll bring it into the shop. ECI and dodge pu shock brackets are due today.

I had good luck with classic 2 current fabrication on the toe board.

Nice one!

alright ... alright ... you guys twisted my arm. Just ordered the PU style brackets to move the upper mounts. The dodge 1/2 ton brackets. Was thinking about this as a future project ... but seeing as I'm doing the entire front end, springs, bushing, king pins, rubber everything, new disc brakes and master cylinder ... I'll throw these in too! Looks pretty straight-forward ... just align and punch holes through frame and bolt up with a backer plate to support? At least that's what I've read on here. Any gotchya's on these?

Anyone know a source to replace the the upper shock mounting stud on the 41-51 front end? Getting my old ones out and bent the 9/16 threaded end and would rather replace these than try to fix. As far as I can see, none of the main mopar sources carry them ... might have to fab one up or have one turned. But thought I would see if you folks knew.

Just a quick update on the front end. Progress is slow ... there was so much to clean. But, I finally got it all cleaned up and painted. The the parts I took off/replacements waiting to go on are all painted too. Scarebird conversion is here as well as the new ECI master and pedal bracket. I'll keep everyone posted, with pics of course, of the re-assembly and disk brakes.

The dash is definitely repainted at some time. The original color of the car was black. If you look closer at the dash, it has a texture on it ... not sure if this is from age/deterioration/poor coating or original yet as I'm focused on the front end right now. However, I plan to woodgrain the dash and interior trim when I get that far.

I believe this was meant to mean grabbing the 218 vs making a 230 is no real difference.

the original and newer are both 10 inch plates. I'm going to call TN clutch today and see what they can do. I've read good things.

I'm moving over the trans from my original '40 flattie to the new rebuilt motor prepping before laying her into her new home. Just replaced the pilot bearing on the rebuilt motor and was looking at the pressure plate that came with the rebuilt ... mocked up the TO bearing and it looks like it's too small when compared to my original. Also looks like the new one comes from a truck ... but I don't think that matters, correct me if I'm wrong. I added some pics that compare how the TO bearing lines up with the fingers. It looks almost like there is a larger TO available? Or do the fingers adjust in? If they do ... can this be done without a special shop/miller tool? 1st pic ... original pressure plate and bearing 2nd pic ... rebuilt pressure plate 3rd pic ... rebuilt on left, original on left I've got my original disc out to TN clutch and supply for resurfacing ... If need be, I can send out my original pressure plate/cover too. hopefully I'm just missing something obvious.

@Andydodge you're spot on!

Well just a quick update since it's been a while ... I've been scraping, wire wheeling crud off and de-greasing like crazy ... lots to clean. Small suspension parts are painted, ready to back onto car. Except for the inner bars ... need to get creative to get these in and spaced right. I'm also cleaning, painting and moving over the bellhousing, clutch parts, trans and starter over to the rebuilt motor in anticipation of painting the front end. I have the pedal assembly out for better cleaning and talked myself into the ECI bracket and dual cylinder master ... scarebird is on backorder so I have a few weeks before all of that arrives. Left on the to-do ... degrease frame, paint, install suspension, new brakes and pedal bracket, drop motor into it's new home. ... hope the snow hold off this year, I only get a few hours a night!

I sent him my 2 spare nuts from the front end work I've been doing.

Easy @40plyguy have the old off the car next to the new ones getting ready to go on the car. 40 on left, 41-52+ On right.