Sharps40

Dad,Ol Bessy was not happy to be on a trailer again. She spit off the straps twice on the trip to the shop. Gotta love her for staying on the trailer dolly though and not taking off on her own. Once we got her on the lift she knew it wasn't another 4 year stint in body shop jail and settled right down. She'll be done Friday or so. Come drive your car! We are blessed to have such good friends here in NC, BigTen got us there safely and ........Drum Roll...... She is getting her exhaust work done in Wadesboro NC, Gary Porter's Shop (Think Carolina Crusher Monster Truck). I think Mr. Porter is no longer with the business but his employees are and I know she's in good hands. She'll be singing right in no time.

Dad, Getting Ol Bessy ready for her exhaust appointment Monday. Went out to start her up and crank and crank and crank until she finally started. Very unusual for her, she's been real good about starting so far. Drive went well until she warmed up. Then I started getting massive deceleration pop and she just wouldn't idle below 1100 rpm. Stalled twice on the way home. So, I assumed fuel or vacuum leak. Started with the old school stuff you taught me. Smacked the carb good with a screwdriver handle to break loose any trash in the needle, reved it, no change. Adjusted fuel pressure from 2 to 4 and back to 2 3/4 lbs. Reved it each time, no change. Took it out on the road again, punched her pedal hard enough to fully open and close both carbs......perfect. Runs like a top. Seems the throttle plate on the secondary carb was a touch open. I'll have to get to that during my tuning weekend. For now, I think she's ready to drive or tow to the exhaust shop.

I think that's about right, and just about time to hit the road.

Put timing light on #1 at tdc. Loosen dizzy bolt. Turn on key but do not start. Wiggle dizzy. If light flashes you are in right. If not you are 180 degrees out. If it's still not starting check the short wire inside the dizzy, it often breaks, killing the motor. Check fuel delivery as wel l.

These from retro belt. I bought black to go with any interior. Also, bought them 75" long so I had options for mounting and for hauling some big loads. Even though its a 5 passenger sedan, I'm setting it up for 4. More comfort for all in these old narrow cabs.

4 lap belts, black, chrome buckles and 4 mounting kits and 3 day delivery. 98 and change shipped from left cost to right.

Laps from retro belt. Ordered fri last week. Arrived Tuesday this week. Under $100 for 4 belts and mounting hardware. Look good in the car. Very pleased.

Floor is insulated. Doubled up on the trans hump to stop some heat. Had enough to get the rear wheel arches at the rear seat and in the trunk as well. Ribbed black flooring is on the way, that'll keep the flooring very close to original.

Got the speedometer programmed after about 6 tries. It kept shutting down about half way through the set up. Figgured it out. Every time it blinked off was when the electric fan spun up. Must have a heavy initial draw. I'll have to put it on a relay to keep if from spinning when I shut the motor off, should keep it from eating up the battery.Anyway, got it out on the road. 55 mph out bound. Max speed per the speedometer log was 63 mph on the way back. Rides great, loud as hell with 6 ft straight pipes coming out right by my ear at the B pillar. Ah well, ol man quite exhaust gets fabbed up on 6 July.The rough home alignment is much better and she tracks straight. On our rough country roads there is no noticeable bump steer. But, i think she's going to need a sway bar fabricated. I'll have to call the mfgr and see what they have.For now, I gotta go buy a new grease gun and get the front and rear suspension fully greased.Next week some time I should have the flooring and insulation for the floor. That'll start to help with the heat and noise.Coming together.I believe I'm going to have to ditch the Thunderbird and get either a real coupe or truck to keep Ol Bessy company.

Yes

Chalk the tire. Roll the car. Check the tire for missing chalk. Adjust PSI up or down.

Glorious!! Dad. 10 months ago I got your car back. I thought 90 days. I didn't know how much I didn't know. But the skills you and Pappy taught me carried us through. And now, she's driving again!!!!

Oh yes. to tune by vacuum you will need a manifold port. This could be a simple spacer and port added under one carb.

Thanks for updating. If not a leak perhaps raise the idle since it now has twice as much cfm the signal to pull gasoline is a lot weaker. Naturally, all the rest has to be right first (ign, linkage, matched carbs, etc)....but I'm sure you know that. Worst case block off one port and tune one carb to run, then block that port to tune second carb to run, then try tuning with both carbs installed. (Dont worry with the unisink till its running decent. The Yamaha example above is apple's to oranges since you have 2 carbs on a common log and the Yamaha was 2 carbs on 2 separate manifolds [and crossover tubes were not available on american models). You should be able to get yours running well as on a log the common Plenum will tend to balance differences between the high carb and the low carb. Eg all 6 cylinders get fed more closely to the same on a log and then the unisink will help you balance both carbs making it all the better. )

Hope it's the right one for you. Post a photo of your ride. I'm fond of the 1937 models.

OP, just curious. Did you vet the problem yet? Wondering as you sort of implied above that the magical Unisink tool probably wasn't the way you needed to go.....

I'll post this link maybe it'll be the correct part. If not, someone will be along shortly to scream that its not. Ad indicates they ship overseas. Looks like these are repainted but listed as New Old Stock parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-1937-Chrysler-Desoto-Sway-Link-Eliminator-Set-/193128963154

Ok. Ya'll seem good to go!

Couple issues. Choke at warm idle to keep it running point's to a vacuum leak. Assuming timing is correct find the leak first. Or, 500 rpm is too low to signal 2 carbs and pull gas in. Second....no need to use a unisync on a log manifold. If they are exactly the same carbs, start with factory settings to get it running, then using a tachometer or manifold vacuum, adjust for lean best idle. Afterward drive it and the plugs will indicate if you need to change main jet sizes. I assume the linkage is perfect and both throttles fully open and close in perfect harmony

Baffle the tank

If it's a press on bearing it may be slipping on the carrier. Had it happen. Always replace both bearing and carrier. Press fit usually only works once.

Rubber innertube

"...So an old Snap-On dwell meter was justified I figured. Spec for my ‘53 265 is 36-42 deg. I measured 27. I filed, adjusted and fired it up. New reading 37. Gapped some more measured 40. Good to go! Riveting stuff..." Set the dwell small/low side of spec. Itll grow to perfect then past max spec with driving maximizing life of the tune. (Inverse relationship- small dwell is big gap) You can check the point gap but I just work from dwell and let gap fall where it may. Just like choosing initial ignition timing, i set it all in at about 3000 to 3400 rpm w/o vacuum advance and if there is no ping on the test drive i know the initial timing is whatever the engine and dizzy need.

I would recommend same. More trans options without the enblock bell housing of the earlier engines

1937. Dodge d5 4 door sedan 71 chevy Malibu 12 bolt w 225 75r15 tires. Wheels 15x6. 3.75 back space 37 dodge rear springs Just weld the dodge perches on the chev axle Good fit, fills the wells, good clearance with the tires