Sharps40

Set cold to get the rebuild running, after 20 minute break on set lash hot with engine off (rotate crank by hand do front3 button up and reheat then engine off for back 3) and change oil. At 500 miles I check lash hot (engine off/same as above) and change oil. Same at 1000 miles. Then I just go with Normal service intervals. Feeler gauge running is a pain in the hand. Much easier engine off and at least inner fender removed. Better yet just remove right fender, only takes 10 minutes after the first try.

So. Good that you have some free radials to try out. But first inspect and repair the front suspension and steering gear. Its 66. At least much of it is just worn out on a 2000 dollar car and swapping on radials is just chasing phantoms. After the repairs get it aligned. Alignment of a worn suspension is wasted effort. Last....try out the radials .

I bought smoothie fab boards for mine. Painted and then masked off and coat with bed liner. Could do same with your metal toppers after removing the rubber. Or just glue the rubber back down. Some darn fine glues out there now.

Just finished about an hour and a half ride with GoodWife. Ol Bessy seems to be happy with the new larger brake master cylinder and brake adjustments. Starts easy and runs pretty smooth. I'll check plugs again later, think she's still a bit rich but that can be solved later. Tuning seems pretty good and the pinion angle is much happier. Lots of squeaks and stuff so still listening closely to the motor but over all, we are happy. GoodWife so relaxed on the ride that she took a nap!

Fuel tank is in for the last time. Got the fuel sender clocked so float is centered in the tank left to right for least disturbance of the fuel gauge while driving. Also measured and set the proper depth and float arm length to get the gauge spot on. Here with power on the tank shows E when dry and 1/4 when 4 of the 16 gallon capacity is put in the tank. Success.....time to go get cigars!

First bath since 1991. Lots of grit in the paint from all the work that had to be done post paint, and should have been accomplished while in primer. But, she's clean, has a quick coat of spit shine and a good winters project will be a complete polish by hand followed by a sealant. Gave her the gentle bath using the best home car wash concentrate I've always used. (1/3 to 1/2 cup baby shampoo, 2 heaping tablespoons of borax and a gallon of water. Mix the concentrate 1 to 2 cups per bucket of water for a gentle and thorough clean.)

Riding Buddies love their new car.

Right now i can't think of a better way to exhibit "total involvement" with a car....

Dad, Good vibrations, or lack of. Looks like all the drive shaft vibration is gone. Pinion is now 1 degree nose down with the new shims. Run her up past 60 mph/3000 rpm and smooth as silk. Now to aim headlights and do a final drop of the fuel tank to calibrate the sender.

Dad, Good test ride. Had to stop short on the first pull, secondary carb was coming in too soon and she went flat before picking up speed. Tweaked it and went out for a number of pulls starting variously from 20 mph to 40 mph. Officially, the motor came to life! Lots of power in there and much of the vibration is gone now that the throttles are opening more fully. Transmission kicks down properly for passing gear and later firmly shifts back to hi range. Video below is the first pull from 20 mph. No where near as hard as the pulls that followed but you get the idea. I made several other pulls, final one ended at 90 mph. She was still pulling hard at that speed and we were below 4000 rpm but I was running out of straight road! Smile dad, Ol Bessy is now in the daily driving rotation. That Chevy Motor you always wanted for her is a great choice. It'll run rings around the flathead we had in her.

Dad, Hundred mile ride confirmed an issue for me today. Jump on it and she accelerates, but slowly. So, been two days futzing the accelerator pedal for a comfortable position and still not hit the floor before wide open throttle. I checked......back to Linkage Set Up 101 classes. I was only getting about 50% open on the primary carburetor and nothing on the secondary. So....ripped out the cable, removed all the failure prone plastic parts and replaced them with steel, took out the S turn in the cable and routed a straight shot on the cable from the top of the pedal arm to the throttle. I had to drill and move the throttle link upward at the carb to get the straightest shot on the cable. Before today's effort, the last 1/8 turn of the carburetor throttle arm to wide open position was actually a downward pull......cables don't pull down well. But now I have her pulling up and then straight back. I think we are about 90% here in the video. Primary carb (the back one) is probably opening 80% and the secondary carb (the forward one) about half way. So, as it sits now, the pedal still hits the floor before both are open full but we should have some real power now. A side effect of all this was no kick down for passing gear when I goosed Ol Bessy. She just powered up slowly staying in third gear. It was horrible.....drove like a dayum Gyromatic! Off to the garage again in the morning and I'll dismount the gas pedal, hopefully for the last time. I think just a little more bend at the bottom will lift the pedal off the floor at wide open throttle, fully open both carbs, drop her into second, get the tires really spinning cause all 220 horse will come on line ..... and still be in a pretty comfortable foot position for driving. Harley Davidson Brake and Clutch pedal pads are inbound. Should free up some space between brake and gas. Not sure if I'll use the oval pedal up and down or the 2/3 pedal mounted horizontally for the brake. But, both will free up some space and look lots better than the big round bullseye pedal that's on there now. Wish me luck.

Dad. Ranging farther afield. Over an hour today about 115 miles added to the odometer. Just under 600 now so about time to change the oil and filter for the 1500 mile cycle. Once that's done I'll change engine oil/filter and trans oil/filter and consider the power pack broken in. No serious issues today. A slight fan belt squeak to check on and the idle is a touch low but otherwise all is well. It was nice to tool around the big loop on the country roads at 50 mph and listen to Post Punk Radio. Doing well enough its likely time to take Ruger on a ride in his car. Every chance he gets, up and in on the front seat waiting to get moving.

So. On a shim adjusted steering box like my 37, you dont know if the worm and sector are shot untill you pull shims and use the adjust screw. Essentially undo drag link. Check play at steering wheel and sector. Remove a sector shim. Check play again. Worm is same. Check, remove shims, adjust screw. If you cant get it in spec then replace both worm and sector and repeat check, shim, adjust. Briefly- put yours back together and follow the check and adjust process outlined in the manual.

Find a screw that fits. Make a sleeve from tubing that fits or drill out a sleeve from round stock. Assemble ...done. Or..... Chuck an oversize screw in drill. File in a shoulder. File in a shank. Thread the shank. Assemble....done.

Stant makes a 4 psi cap. Check for fit. If you're service manual calls for 4 then 7 is too high. Limiting factor is the water pump seals. Too high and you risk pushing past the shaft seal. Brass works also has a universal fit 4 psi cap. Many other sources, acquiring should be no issue. Lever caps are wonderful leakers. At the wrong time. I avoid them.

So far all the front vent rubber I've used since the 80s has been very slightly narrow but good length. Been using mopar direct rubber lately. Reasonably happy but same sizing issues and no rear filler strips for rear vents.

On the late 30s models All aftermarket rear vent window rubber is too narrow. May be similar for 40s. All is made in lengths for the smaller Plymouth sedan rear vent windows. Back in the 80s your kit came with a filler strip for the larger vents. No longer. Reuse a filler cut from your original or order a double set for the bigger didge and other make vent windows Luck.

Good gosh fellas. Just rebuild the vacuum motors. Put on a vacuum fuel pump (may need header mod) or an electric vac pump, and if you like add a vacuum ball/ check valve In Line.....or see if the same year dodge, Chrysler, desoto electrics fit. No need to puff up and spur each other like horny roosters

I'll have to call hagerty but from a prior conversation they wouldn't let me drive it .... unless to a show or an ice cream shop. Seems all the companies use that phrase.

Sounds like keeping a "look" is causing confusion. Since it's now 12v- ground and likely has an alternator and will need non original looking plug wires, why not return the confusing dizzy package to pertronix, call tom Langdon and drop in an hei. Hide the square coil. Simple wire to switched ignition source, no ballast, dead reliable. You can always leave in the old coil and ballast with deadhead wires for the look of those components If you gut the old coil hide the square coil inside the firewall and wire it through the old coil shell.

Thanks Mr Bobs! That'll help immensely with the new project.

Dad, Temp solution to flooding cold starts. Add another filter so Ol Bessy can breath. She fired right up. Will run her a few days and if this is the answer then we need to stack both or find a less restrictive air cleaner that looks as good. I guess Ol Bessy dont like wearing a mask either.

Very nice.

While you have it out could you post the length from the front face of the damper to the rear face of the block where the bell housing mates up. Thanks...its for planning purposes on my own project.

Yep. That too