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Sharps40

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Posts posted by Sharps40

  1. New and old ride height. (Factory ride height restored!)   Remember to leave all the bolts (including the axle u-bolts) slightly loose until you have weight on wheels.   Jounce the rear end several times then torque the front eye bolts, snug up the rear shackle bolts to compress the bushings.  Finally, tighten down the axle U-bolts.....then go ride.

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    • Like 3
  2. The new shackles and bushings.  The old Cee Shackles measure 4 inches CTC.   The new Boomerang Shackles (allow clearance of the aft cross member) are sold at 4 inches CTC but actually measure 4.5 inches CTC.   Not a problem, thats only 1/4 inch lift out back.  New grade 8 hardware, including grade 8 locking nuts were acquired.  Some triming and reshaping of the inner shackle arm was required to ensure cross member clearance through out full stroke.  Finally, a few washers are acquired to ensure the spring is aligned to prevent bind and breakage.  (I used 3/8 thick shackles for strength since I knew I'd be trimming a bit.  Not shown, a 2.25 in steel sleeve was used on the center bolt establishing a 2.9 in width across the shackles arms with the bushings compressed)

     

    The bushings shown are rubber, 7/8" outer, 1/2" inner and of a length needed for 1 3/4" wide springs.   (EG just a bit longer so they smush up and lock tight in the eye/sleeve and around the bolts.)   I did not smooth out the old threads in the frame sleeve as rubber bushing do NOT rotate in the hole....they twist a bit with the shackles turning on the bolt.   And those threads are really more round bottom and shallow, shouldn't be any problem at all. 

     

    Short leg goes up (Frame bushing) and the large Vee shape faces the rear bumper to maximize clearance and stroke.

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  3. Better view.  86 road years is a lot of flexing and the old springs have quite a set.   Remember, spring rate does not change with age but Arch will.   You might have them rearched (Factory arch should be 8.5 inches) but finding a shop that can and given the low price of brand new springs, plus the upgrade to one additional leaf and the ability to convert from those hard to service threaded bushings.....

     

     

     

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  4. 1937 Dodge D5 4 door sedan.  old on top.   New on bottom.  Old is 7 leaf.   New is 8 leaf (850 lb rate).  The new made springs are for the 40s/50s Chrysler (heavier car) and others.   All the measurements are the same.  Sole difference is the rear spring eye is not threaded for the old steel Cee Shackles rather using the more modern Rubber bushings and shackles.   The Cee Shackles were used on the 37 and many models before 1942ish due to a cross member just aft of the fuel tank.

     

    A leaf spring rides best flat or with 1 to 2 inches of arch.   Passenger side was flat, drivers side inverted.   Time to replace.   86 years is a good run.

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  5. Here is a link to using a GM 4 pin control module to maximize your points distributor.   A motorcycle article but applicable to cars too.   Should work with any distributor and your 12v- ground system.   Don't forget to heat sink the module at your preferred mounting location. 

     

    There is an option here to toggle between points controlled ignition and module controlled ignition.  e.g In the rare event a Genuine GM 4 pin module fails, you can switch back to points and move on down the road.....note, without a ballast resistor it'll be harder on your points but it'll get you to a parts store and you'll be back on electronic ignition likely long before cratering the points.  A fine emergency back up, just the flip of a switch....

     

    As you used relays to take the amp load off your headlight switch (you did didn't you?....shame, shame if not, safety first, you don't want a fire.....) you use this system to take the load off your points.   Points should last as long as the rubbing block and since you remove the ballast resister (which limits your 12-14.2v- ground power supply to 6v after start up) your new 12v coil will be saturated at double or more voltage full time.  e.g. the function of the ballast resister is to allow full voltage for start up and then reduce to 6 or so volts for running in order to keep the points from burning up.)

     

    When done, you have all the benefits of a powerful 12v-14.2v- ground ignition without the cost of an HEI, the difficulty of revamping a points dizzy to slant 6 electronic, or the potential and oft complained of failures of the Pertronix/similar style conversion units.

     

    Safe driving....

     

    http://gpzweb.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com/Ignition/GPZheiModForPoints.html

    • Like 1
  6. Some background first....

     

     I didn't know this and find it very interesting.....might well quick fix a road side break down for the bazillions of us running an HEI distributor.
     
    I run a GM HEI (Chinesium copy cause at the time I was assembling, A Genuine Item wasn't in the budget.) Since then I located in the spares at Dads house a fine condition GM HEI Distributor. I won't keep the entire dizzy in the trunk when traveling but the genuine gm module can be stowed against a road side breakdown.
     
    Comparing the two, I noted my Chinesium module is a 4 pin and the GM Module on hand is a 5 pin. Did a bit of quick research and it seems pin count really doesn't matter. Running a 4 pin dizzy I can swap in any 4, 5 or 7 pin module to mine and it'll work fine. Even the Buick 3 pin module can be wired to replace my Chinesium unit or used to control points dizzy should I ever go back to that.  (I did further research and found even the common 4 pin can be wired to any points dizzy for nearly infinite points life and full 12v-14.2v power {ballast resister eliminate} to the coil at all times.   Neat stuff.)
     
    Essentially, the common 5 pin uses one pin for spark knock....not needed on mine. A rarer, 2 year 5 pin, uses one pin to retard timing 5 degrees, not needed on mine. Same with the seven pin, just swap it in and ignore the additional pins. The odd 3 pin can be used but requires rewiring.
     
    So, nice to know I've got a spare in the trunk and if i ever needed a parts store on the road, there are many choices against their inevitable "4 pin shows in stock but ain't actually on hand" scenarios.
     
  7. Been a while since I've posted.  Ol Bessy (37 Dodge) is running daily on her new SBC and TH350 for three years now.   Yep, i used all GM power and drive line for off the shelf, anywhere, parts availability and its saved my bacon on a long out of state trip on one occasion.....no waiting in a hotel for overnight delivery of an antique repair part....but, I digress.

     

    So, you still want/need to run the old flat head....but for reliability/other reason, you've converted and rewired from 6v+ ground to 12v_ ground.   Good for you, if nothing else, a fine safety upgrade as you'll have much brighter headlights.  {Most especially if you've properly taken the load off the switch using relays to deliver a full 14.2v to the lamps.)

     

    But, in so doing, you've likely not taken advantage of the 12v- ground capacity to upgrade your ignition and engine performance.   Options include an expensive 12v hei, or a somewhat difficult conversion of your points dizzy to slant 6 electronic.....but there's an easier and more affordable way, and it can be hidden if your a "looks" purest.

     

     

     

     

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  8. Got Ol Bessy up to VA.   First Dad has seen her together and first drive in nearly 40 years.   After watching, you'll understand why we went with a 1st Gen Chevy V8.  Dad will be 82 soon.   And She is now the way he always wanted her........sometimes it takes a life time to get there.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfrYDCttGW8&t=3s

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSnIt0hSwvU&t=11s

    • Like 1
  9. Try not to over think or over engineer points swap and adjustment.

     

    Simple.

     

    Assuming timing is correct, proceed as follows...

     

    Install new points and condenser, cap, rotor, etc.

     

    Make initial adjustment of gap to about 20 thousands, match book cover is fine.

     

    Start and warm engine.

     

    Install dwell meter and check reading.

     

    Set the dwell for the smallest number of degrees called out in your manual for the dizzy.   (This will be largest point gap and allow the points last the longest.)

     

    E.G. doing it this way, you essentially ignore the very difficult to measure points gap and the easy reading dwell meter assures you are in the correct range for the longest time period. (e.g. the life of the rubbing block)

     

     

     

     

  10. Quote

     

    Dad,
    First endurance run today.   232 miles.   Left this morning at 0945 and arrived home at 1600.   Just over a full tank of gas and we netted a strong 12.25 mpg with some stops and averaging cruise speeds of 55 mph.

     

    From Pekin, NC we went north through Troy, NC to the Pisgah Covered Bridge.   Stopped for photos.   Then North/around and through the Uhwarrie National Forest to the west side and South to the town of Uhwarrie.   From there to Troy, NC again for lunch at Better Burger.   Down State 109 to Wadesborough, NC and further South and East to Bennettsville, SC by way of Cheraw, SC.   From there back up State 15/501 to Aberdeen, NC., North and West through Seven Lakes and Candor, NC on 211 and finally, out State 731 at the South end of the Uwharrie National Forest to home here in Pekin.

     

    She ran great.   Tune seems fine and the carbs are working fine.   Next endurance outing will be up the interstate from Pekin, NC to Fancy Gap, VA and back holding highway speeds.

     

    Todays trip confirms about all we need to do now mechanically is raise the front end on new springs, get the rear springs under control and probably rebuild the rear differential.    Then, it'll be upholstery time.

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    • Like 1
  11. Dad,
    Last year i went with the Ford style swan neck mirrors that bolt on. The clip on style for the old dodges always vibrated and fell off.
    Problem was the curvature of the door shell didn't allow the ford mirrors to swing in enough to be usable without really contorting your neck.
    So, I cut a 3 degree shim for the drivers side and a 7.5 degree shim for the passenger side and now, I can see out the back on both sides without breaking my neck.

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    • Like 1
  12. Dad, Big step forward. First high speed highway run for Ol Bessy in about 25+ years. A photo out over the hood headed south on I74.....and a short video of the speedometer and serene music, as we steadily roll South bound at 70 mph. (She's loud and thirsty at that speed but pushed her past 75 mph for a stretch and we know she can do it relatively smoothly. But, with no upholstery at least she's no louder than she was running a tractor motor all those years.) I think we finally have the right operating angles for the drive shaft. Bessy no longer shakes her self apart on hard acceleration and running the highway at 2800 to 3100 rpm didn't elicit any untoward vibration from the drive line.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSVn0NAylh8

     

     

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  13. To answer your question directly.   Large gap equals small dwell.  

     

    To set points ignore the points gap/feeler gauge method.   Set dwell to lower limit.....(large gap) and the tune will last the longest as the gap closes up and dwell increases with miles driven.

  14. Dad,

     

    First highway run today.   Made the run to Rockingham for gasoline, (this tank 11.23 mpg mostly on short hop drives).  She ran 60 mph on the trip down, pretty smooth.   65 mph on the way back, slightly less smooth.

     

    Notes for adjustments over the next few weeks:

     

    1.  Dual deuces are harder to keep in adjustment than a single 4 barrel carb.   Especially the idle speed.   Mostly it seems about getting and keeping both butterflies closed at idle the same way each time.   Usually a goose will clear it up but I think we need to fix that issue and move on to jetting.   

     

    2.   Let her sit more than five days and the modern half gas/half additives all evaporates out of the bowls and she is much harder to start.

     

    3.  I will need to raise the front end about 1 inch to be comfortable with tire to fender clearance.   Springs have taken all their set now and we could use a small bit of extra clearance for these rough country roads and for when we have passengers aboard.  A .5" isolator on top of the springs should give up to 1" of rise over all.

     

    4.  Rear pinion angle wants a bit more preload.   I think i'll nose down about 1 degree more and see where that puts us.   Based on the last test, Ol Bessy dosn't want any nose up at all on te pinion.

     

    5.  Those 1.75" wide NOS rear springs are soft, bumps the bump stops but not the floor now.   Made for 87 horses.   220 horses likely twist them up a good bit.   Still up in the air but might try some over leaf helpers in front of the rear axle to hold the pinion angle and firm up the ride a bit better.

     

    6.   She's fun to drive!

  15. Since you are not getting much help.....copied from slant 6 forum.....

     

     

    BULLETIN #37 - 5 5/77
    ENGINE DIMENSIONS CHART 225
    WIDTH
    Outside Valve Cover to
    Prod. Exh. Manifolds 17.3"

    LENGTH
    Bellhousing Face to

    Front of Block 27.7"
    Center Line of Fan Belt 28.0"
    Front of Fan 32.3"

    HEIGHT
    Bottom of Pan to

    Top of Prod. Air Cleaner 22.6"
    Top of Carb. 26.5"
    Top of Valve Cover 23.8"

    Pan Rail to
    Top of Valve Cover 19.7"

    Above numbers are approximate.

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