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mopar_earl

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Everything posted by mopar_earl

  1. Kinda but still not a flywheel. Flywheel keeps momentum for the engine, fluid coupling takes that place. The plate is just that, a plate. Is no flywheel. Not sure what he wants to inspect, but I can assure you, there is no flywheel. Earl
  2. No flywheel to inspect on a fluid coupling. It bolts directly to crank. No flywheel nor flex plate. Starter ring gear is on the fluid coupling. Earl
  3. I was there too. Wednesday through till 1:30 Sunday. My 18th year attending. While it's always hot and humid during the Carlisle All-Chrysler show, it wasn't bad and most of the days were mild. 2012 year was 110*F. I saw at least half a dozen vendors with pre 1960 parts. I scored a hard to find turn signal lever for my 52. One vendor had a crap load of NOS items for pre 60's. That's where I got my turn signal lever. 90% of his inventory was NOS pre 1960. Nice guy too with very reasonable prices. This show has never had a lot for the pre 1960's. Hershey is your best bet for that. The Carlisle show is mostly muscle and late models. But the vendors also have other items too. You can buy just about anything there automotive and non automotive related. Earl
  4. I bought my kit for my 52 M6 transmission with clutch pedal on the frame in fall of 2015. The kit came with the front disc residual valve. The master has the rear drum residual valve built in. They stopped using metering valves as they couldn't source a quality one. I bought a GM combination valve from Summit for my car. That way I'd have the metering valve and proportioning valve. Otherwise the kit was complete. From my experience and others on the forum, the stock wheels will not fit over the ECI discs. They use large rotors and calipers. The kits are different depending on year, fluid coupling or not and if the clutch pedal is on the frame or on the master cylinder. Their kits came with new master and calipers. Not remans. I installed nicopp lines and stainless steel line nuts. I also used Dot 5 brake fluid. The only modifications we did was add a stop tab to the brake pedal, made and installed brackets to keep the front brakes hoses away from the tires and painted all the components. My kit didn't need any pedal spacers like in the other install posts. But my car was later with the clutch pedal on the frame. If you have any questions, I might be of help. Earl
  5. Carlisle All-Chrysler Nationals is coming up. I will be there Thursday through Sunday camping on grounds. This will be my 18th year. Will be on the lookout for items for my 52. Also hoping to get some pics of aftermarket added seatbelts installed in early 50's mopars. Earl
  6. A fuel injected 4.0L would be sweet if it would fit. Also a Cummins B series or other small diesel would be awesome sweet. Earl
  7. If I lived closer, I'd offer to help you troubleshoot it. Earl
  8. Try these videos Earl
  9. Pretty sweet. Definitely better than spending large money on wide whites and you could use high quality tires. Earl
  10. Cool, yes that dinner is still open on radio hill. 30 west diner it's called. Work in Greencastle and my girlfriend lives in Greencastle. Small world. That Chrysler dealer is still going. The lot across from it closed down. Earl
  11. That's my understanding when he posted. He said they had what he needed but wanted opinions on their services/NOS side of their business. Earl
  12. I've order from Bernbaum several times in the past 10 months and was displeased with their parts each time. Now I won't buy unless I have no choice to. Watch, Mopar direct on eBay is Bernbaum under a different name. Kinda shady to have two different names. I never dealt with the company when the original owner had it. Also the staff always seem bothered when you call. They sigh and you can even sense their eyes rolling cause you called. I see no reason to ask about a vendor or sharing your experience. I'd also be highly concerned buying NOS as NOS always brings a high premium. All the parts I bought weren't NOS. So I can't help you on that part of their business. Earl
  13. I use 3 in 1 oil in the generator, distributor and speedometer. Also on my column shift rod bushings. Earl
  14. Also make up a new harness for the transmission. Mine was beyond shot and couldn't believe it started, ran and shifted. Couple of my connectors was only on by a couple wire strains. Also clean your connections as well. Not sure why so many ppl dislike these semi-auto transmissions. I love mine, just wish it had an OD. Earl
  15. Advance has some as well as Napa. Earl
  16. I'd put a new pair of springs on it. They aren't expensive and if you have broken leafs, the others are shot too. Always replace springs in pairs. The place Don recommend is who I also recommend. Be sure to install new shackles, bushings, u-bolts and hardware. The recommended company can supply all those items. Earl
  17. He is also pondering keeping the Flathead. That's why I said about the dirt cheap to free semi-auto or fluid drive. Options are very limited for a full auto on a Mopar flathead and expensive. I myself would drop a complete modern fuel injected drivetrain in the car, if I was in need of an auto trans. Earl
  18. How about put a semi auto (Gyro-matic) or straight up 3 speed with the fluid coupling. That would greatly reduce clutching to starting and reversing. Usually you can find fluid couplings and semi autos cheap to free. Being a 52, it should have the fluid coupling with a 3 speed standard unless someone altered the car. They only had two options, 3 speed with fluid drive or semi-auto Gyro-matic for 52 Dodge. Earl
  19. Adjust your rods. That fixed the issue with my trans not going into reverse. It's the easiest thing to do and to eliminate. The procedure should be in your manual. If not I can type the procedure from my manual. Heat effects everything on a vehicle. Everything expands and contracts with temp change including steel rods. Earl
  20. Wouldn't work on my car. My radiator hose was a lot larger diameter than the Mopar v8 housing. That was my first try. Earl
  21. Adjust the shift rods are per the service manual. Sagging engine mounts can throw off shifter rod travel. There is a rubber bushing on the one rod that maybe shot or missing. Bushing can be had on eBay. Earl
  22. Mine was warped and wouldn't seal no matter how much sealer you put on it with a gasket. Tried to seal it 3 times and than bought a replacement. Spent two days online trying to find a replacement that would fit both the head and the radiator hose, couldn't source one. Nor could Napa. Went threw every housing they had on the shelf. So I bought the reproduction housing on eBay from Mopar Direct, later finding out they are Andy Bernbaum's. Earl
  23. My original housing with internal bypass was warped and leaked. I couldn't find anything that would fit, especially for the radiator hose size. Ended up buying one from Andy Bernbaum's as I had no choice. For 60 bucks I got a new one that didn't leak. Earl
  24. U bolts should be replaced and not reused. You can get them made at any spring place. Earl
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