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Bad Apache

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  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mechanicsburg, PA
  • Interests
    Cars
  • My Project Cars
    47 Business Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Car nut, Mechanic, Dad
  • Occupation
    Mechanic

Converted

  • Location
    Harrisburg, PA
  • Interests
    Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

581 profile views
  1. Can’t thank you enough! That’s perfect. I really appreciate you going out of your way to get the information for me. Probably felt good seeing the car. Winter feels long here. Ready to do some driving!
  2. Hey Guys! I’m primarily a lurker here. Learned tons from you guys. Sometimes more than I wanted to know, lol. Well I find myself in need of some help. My 1947 Plymouth business coupe came to me without rear fenders. I have acquired some NOS ones but their fitment needs some help. I’m building the chassis now and trying to figure out rear axle width and tire clearance. So I need someone to drop a plumb bob from each fender wheel opening innermost lip in the middle of the opening and mark the floor to give me an accurate width lip to lip. Also would help if it was from a car that is lowered some. And love to here your track width or fender to tire clearance with what tire size you’re running. Hopefully that all makes sense. And thanks in advance of your dirty pant knees!
  3. Fantastic story! I hope you get to enjoy the car for a long long time as well. Awesome family heirloom! Lon
  4. I'm with PA on this one. You heard a bearing fail in the water pump. On disassembly you'll find play in the water pump shaft and possibly a lovely grinding sensation when you spin the shaft in your hand. Let us know. Lon
  5. x2 The new fuels are very hard on conventional fuel hose. I strongly recommend ptfe hose for the minimal extra cost. Lon
  6. Is that brick parking brake an NOS part? Just kidding! She looks awesome! Now if I could just find some rear fender moldings like those for my Plymouth... Lon
  7. If you're holding the throttle steady and the engine is surging, it is not the accelerator pump circuit, but rather the cruise circuit. Probably a dirt issue. Looking forward to your find! Lon
  8. A cotter pin is strictly a safety device in case the nut loosens. If the nut had backed off 60* to the next slot, it would be just slightly better than finger-tight at the most. So if you cannot loosen it very easily, stick in a new pin and roll on confidently. Now your fuel problem has me curious. Lon
  9. Congrats Don! As already stated, you'll save someone the same mistake down the road. A completed thread is refreshing to see. So many never get closed out. Lon
  10. Don, I've been a mechanic since '87 and have been a partner in my own shop for the last 15 years. I know how your dad felt about you being a mechanic. I would much rather my kids pick a different field, however I would teach them as much as I could about basic mechanics to help them throughout life. The skills are very useful in so many facets of life. And I am still learning new things every day. Mistakes are a part of learning. You learn the wrong way to do it, hahaha! I think you can do this, no problem! That said, I am subscribed. I'm very curious what you find. Let's see. Things you've eliminated: 1). Battery 2). Cables 3). Starter 4). Running out of parts... A question. I apologize, but my car was purchased in many many pieces, so I can't go look. Where does the positive cable ground to on the car? Engine block? Chassis? You can "test" for bad ground cable with a good sized set of jumper cables. Just take one of the jumper cables and attach it to the ground terminal at the battery and attach the other end to the starter case or mounting bolt. Looking forward to your test results. Lon
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