bigdaisy19k

A fine opinion. Let it be.

The spitfire in the Windsor is already fluid torque.. But you are right about missing parts. I have a hopeful line on a spare 331 that may have them.

Speaking of news, found water trapped in a couple of cylinders. But it wasn't too rusty red. Removed water, added penitrant and will need to pull heads. Fingers crossed.

If only for my semi auto trans this would be great info.

I'll have to print this out, helpful stuff. Thanks

Hopefully the larger engine bay helps. I was going to try and make a bit more power, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

That's relief, I was worried about steering box interference or a much too weak rear end. But those things are manageable too.

Wildcat Mopars in Oregon?

Basically if it says stop leak on it no matter who makes it and what it's for, avoid it.

It's amazing what a good polymer can do. Also, there's a whole testing service built around oil, SN was the last rating I remember, but as long as it's the highest S* rating it's good for anything built before that rating. Mostly just don't let the oil oxidize past 90 days or so, once the additive package is used up change it. No matter if it sat over time or ran the mileage. Now using C-* oils rated for diesel engines is ok, but the additive package is deferent as CGI metals and high load cam facings require their own grading. Modern engines run variable displacement on oil pumps to control oil flow for fuel economy. It really is a rabbit hole as previously noted by other posters. Bottom line on sealing the valve stems, if you changing the guide material anyway, it might be fine. But it's also your engine to do as you like, so we don't much matter when it comes to that end of it.

Picked up a 53 331 long bellhousing hemi this weekend. Thing is how crazy am I to try and put this into my 52 six cylinder windsor with it's fluid torque drive? I mean it's going in no matter what, but if there's some notes on differences between V8 and 6 cylinder cars I'll need to note, (like heavier front springs), I'd appreciate the advise/opinions. For 500 bucks it was listed as refreshed, but I still need to start a little teardown to know for sure.

Making progress on the 52, carb rebuild and new battery cut off switch make everything so much better. Still need to finish making the brake lights work. But not bad for original unrestored. Unfortunately for me she needs to go. Too many projects lol.

I'd go with sheets, we used them to cover all kinds of nice horse drawn wagons, grandpa would collect. Much to Grandma's ire I suppose.

I feel you Greg, the whole process would have been a lot cheaper if these filters didn't cost so much, lol. But it's a good cautionary tail, be careful with additives, even seafoam in the oil will clean a lot of crud out in a hurry and put it all in the pan/filter. You only need a plugged pick-up tube for a few moments to lunch the bearings.

Both full flow. What's up? Don't use detergent oil on a bypass filter set up?

I'll run it hard and see when happens, hopefully very little of note.

What a catch!

Oh, Greg I get you, I just hope you don't think I was slighting your personal experience when I mentioned anecdotal results. I mean anecdotal is just a term for experience we can't confirm ourselves, it doesn't mean it's not true. Just unconfirmed by the guy on the other end of the magic keyboard argument device, but isn't that how all personal experience works? My point was for derbydad276, he can do what he likes for whatever reason he chooses. But we hope he doesn't mind our personal input and finds it useful. I really enjoyed the suggested testing, I'll for sure save it for later. Are you sure you don't do technical writing for a living? Personally, I'm almost scared to put a compression gauge on Edna, I'm afraid it's going to read in dollar signs. ? With the white coming from the breather tube a swiss piston worries me more than rings. She doesn't use oil like you'd think. But I definitely agree about crud in the pan and oil levels and oil pan leaks. For now I'm leaving the car as it is, we don't take it out much and it's certainly no parade car. I hope this reads right, I was sincere about the technical writing, it was pretty good for providing direction.

Exactly, subjective, and thus I agree completely. Also a fantastic example of why oil type questions are really hard for online forums. We're all just dudes and gals doing what we want for fun and try to use our technical experience to help others. There's no prerequisite for opinions or anecdotal findings and no resume posted with profiles. But there are no wrong answers, but if you're lucky maybe some good smart ass sarcastic ones. ? Also, our projects, like our pets get only the best. The best is completely based on what we can find for information we'll accept as factual. Even if it's an anecdotal test from a completish stranger. As long as you're happy with what you choose, that's all we care about. ? Also, I'm very aware I'm currently facing the choir. ?

Oil is very specific but sold to the very subjective. Personally, 10-40W, Amazon Basics high mileage Semi-Synth with ZDP additive. But only as of the last change, previously it's been mostly SAE 30W non detergent oil. I just got tired of oil technology from the 50s. This is in the all original car, but she's been a smoker for years now, it's a terrible habit she can't seem to shake. Also, I've never trusted Lucas or any other 'additive' maker, this includes the current ZDP I use. Amazon Basics comes from the Warren Oil Company LLC, http://www.warrenoil.com/ I'm not pushing this oil on anyone, but I know it's the first question you'll ask. These days engines are designed for certain oils and oils in that grade and rating tend to improve faster than the engineering in the engines. It would be a matter of someone digging up the past to see if that even crossed their minds in 1952 when Edna was made.

Resisting the urge to make a street cred joke here, I would say it's a looks preference. I can't think of a performance gain, I mean just looking at the nice work in the photos, I'm willing to bet those are new springs front and rear.

I'm sure that no one steals ideas on the internet, that's just crazy talk. ? Speaking of good places for information, I sure do miss going to inliners international. Ten years ago the flathead chrysler scene there was strong.

I hate to reference the HAMB but sometimes it's like the Simpsons. It's all been asked before. In case anyone needs more information. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/can-an-electric-fuel-pump-before-manual-cause-fuel-flow-issues.929479/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/can-i-leave-mechanical-fuel-pump-on-engine-when-installing-electric-one.939182/

I guess I knew that already, but wishful thinking had a hold of me. Off to Amazon again.

Sorry to jump in like this, but has anyone needed to run a pressure regulator with their electric pump?