Normspeed

Being a Hitchcock film, I'm guessing Alfred was in the back of the truck.

ok, thanks to c4c I have picked up a complete rearend from a 97 explorer, I took everything, rotor to rotor, u-bolts, u joint mount, even took the bottom mounting pad with shock mounts. so here's my question. the furd rear sits on top of the springs just like my plymouth, the springs are wider on the furd, but the pads are quite a bit narrower than the springs. they look to be really close to the width of the ply pads. has anyone used the stock pads from that rear, just moved to make them line up properly? the other question is the bottom mount for the u-bolts. it also looks really close, plus it has shock mounts that look like they are just about right for use in the ply. anyone know? I cant get under my car right now, so if someone could post a good pic of the mounts and such for the rear, I would appreciate it. if it will work like I think it could save me some fab work for sure.

How is the overall width, about the same as the old rear end?

Looking in the Hollander's book, it looks like there isn't an exact match up. But I'm not up to full wizard standards in the secret society of those who know how to read the thing. It says all the 51-53 DeSotos use lower control arm in group 62 and 63, while P15 is group 63 and 67. But looking at Group 63 description, it only lists Chrysler, DeSoto and 49-52 Dodge.

For the upper arm, The DeSoto numbers are group 74 & 75 while the P15s are group 72 & 73.

Don't take my word for it though, I've missed some matchups in Hollanders that were picked up by other folks. With the Hollander's I'm just a sorcerer's apprentice.

i dont think there is anything wrong with cliping a car..just so long

as the person knows what heck they are doing...my dad's '48 dodge

2 door sdn has a '77 Camero clip...with a 440 and some people will look

down the engine bay and swear we used the stock rails...

The Dodge sure looks like a subframe done right. The stance and wheel position looks good to me. Hard to see where you did the grafting on the frame.

That's going to be one clean P15.

I have a left inner tie rod end that's getting kinda sloppy. RockAuto has two grades, service and professional, both are Raybestos. Service grade as around $12, Pro is $30. Anyone know if there is that much difference between the two? Anyone used any other sources for tie rod ends? Looks like Plymouth used the same part from the P15 through the 56 model year, that's a plus.

That's funny Tim, out of nowhere I started receiving Field and Stream, for free. Got a renewal notice last week, but I can't see renewing a mag that I read cover-to-cover in about 5 minutes, then toss.

I subscribe to a couple car mags and I enjoy them. For my money, this year I'll be dropping Popular Hot Rodding (read Camaro-Mustang-Chevelle-crate motor magazine) and subscribing to Hot Rod Deluxe.

I used some eastwood rust encapsulator on the iron frame of my ancient teardrop and the stuff seems to be a great product. Pricey though.

Welcome. I was lucky to attend a little shindig in Austin a few months ago, the Lone Star Roundup. You folks sure know how to throw a street party, rain or shine!

Jim, are you doing the conversion with the body/floorpans still in place?

But, due to an unfortunate experience at a White Castle in Bloomington, Indiana, I have not had one since about 1988.

Have we stumbled across the origin of the term "sliders"?

Joe, if you used Permatex #2, it will come off pretty easy with a single edge razor, especially if you warm it up with a hair dryer first. #1 is a real pain to get off, it hardens up pretty solid. The reverse bolts sound good but even if you have to drop the pan, heck, it's about the journey, not the destination, right?

The zen master has spoken.

Joe, a wire wheel will clean up those parts nicely. Remember, a wire wheel is a device designed to grab small parts out of your hand, and throw them, at the speed of light, into another dimension.

Here's a nice stock '50 Plymouth with the same body style. Now it is sweet! I love that colour!

C'mon Robert, just maybe a little 2" chop?

Tim what about the Dodge Buzzcoupe you were working on, how did that one work out? Must have been subframed with the big power that was in there?

I made it a point to visit In-N-Out when I was in San Diego back in July. I was not all that impressed with In-N-Out. My visit to Jack in the Box was much more satisfying. I put In-N-Out on par of just a little better than McDonald's. I know some people really love the place, but I was woefully disappointed. The fries reminded me of stale canned french-fried potato sticks. I'll drive past an In-N-Out to find a Burger King. I know some folks in Texas really like What-A-Burger, but I put in on par of just a little below Burger King. My wife and I tend to visit Braum's if we see one when traveling.

It's all a matter of taste, but I don't recommend In-N-Out to any one traveling to that part of the US.

Heresy! A pox upon you, Captain Neon!

A couple more shots, P24 assisting emergency personnel, and the theatre with stampeding moviegoers.

One nice thing, when Stevie fires up his Mopar, there's no after-the-fact added in the studio engine sound effect. That is a good old flattie you're hearing.

PS, Greg, I know 2 answers, let's see if anyone can ace your quiz.

If the motor is out and on a stand, seems like a pretty easy job to rotate it upside down, remove the pan and bearing cap and put in your bolts. Especially with Rodney volunteering to help with the thrash.

But, I can't see why the reverse-bolts would not work. If you go that way, get some nice grade 8 stuff and you could also use some red loctite instead of lock washers.

If you can get close on what you think you need, JC will send you samples for free. I've used that service a couple times including window channel for my sliding side windows.

I miss In & Out burgers. On the TV news this week there was a big news story...

Abuquerque might be getting its first In & Out. We don't have one here in Southern NM though.

Back before the company re-designed its bumper stickers, the cool thing was to cut 'em up like the one in this photo:

What an honor! Your car deserves the award, you've done a beautiful job on it.

Just saw this movie again tonight on Turner Classic Movies. The 1958 original. Great old Sci Fi, and in color too. Steve McQueen's co-star is a 53 Plymouth convertible, green with a red interior. (to Robert KB: yes, it's bone- stock). Great scene where he races a 40 Ford coupe to the next stoplight...in reverse! Cops drive a 57 Plymouth. At the end is a scene where the local hot rodders come to the rescue. In quick succession there's a 40 Ford coupe, a chopped merc, a Ford roadster pickup (long bed), a 46-48 Ford red convertible, and a Deuce 5 window that appears to be a RHD!. Corny special effects but a nice snapshot of what people looked like, back in the day.

Bob, your coupe was lucky to find such good owners. Maybe you should name it Lucky.

Great car, and the Catskills is such a great place to be driving it. It don't get much better'n that.

Great color, can't wait to see her all put back together.

Signals??? we don't need no stinkin signals!!!!

Only restriction I had was no lifting over 5 lbs with my right arm

OK Greg, I'll take the high road here and say nothing...

Rich, I'm interested in your experience with this. I have maybe 3 axles worth of 10" brake shoe cores and I noticed some are drilled for riveted but have old bonded linings on them. How will you be doing the rivets?