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Normspeed

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Posts posted by Normspeed

  1. Joe, another thing about the head bolts with the threaded holes, on my 53 there is a rear one like that. An eyelet screws into it to hold the throttle return spring. If yours is like that, make sure that bolt is in the right hole to provide the best return action on the bellcrank. Those rear ones, at least on my car, are close to the nice new paint on the firewall, and easier to switch around with the engine out.

  2. In is engaged. If you have any trouble getting it to work, the 46-54 Plymouth manual has a real nice simple troubleshooting guide. The fuse holder on the relay (attached to the coil bracket on my 53) has a tendency to get tarnished and break the continuity.

  3. I had a Muntz 4 track in my 55 Dodge back in the 60's. For the longest time there was still an old Muntz shop at a fork in westbound rte 66, right where Upland CA meets Cucamonga. Still had the Muntz name painted on the building but I think it was used for window tinting or something. I'll bet Tony C, Robert Smith, Darin and a few others know the building.

  4. Too bad, the 56 2 door wagons are not all that plentiful. I'll tell myself that maybe he started with a really bad basket case and saved it from the crusher.

    The nostalgia gasser thing is a real fad right now. I liked them back in the day but the fad is already getting worn out, kinda like tractor grilles on rat rods:D

    I'd say this guy is reaching pretty far to call that one a gasser.

    The good folks of DeSoto ought to run the guy outta Dodge...

  5. The trick would be, to make sure no air gets sucked back in around the threads on the loosened bleeder screw when you let up on the pedal.

    You can also do a solo bleed with a piece of clear tubing fitted over the end of the screw, with the other end submerged in a jar half full of clean brake fluid.

  6. Bob makes a good point. It got me to remembering, my 2 speed heater fan in the P24 was doing the same thing. Switch was getting very hot, only had one speed, and fan motor was not really spinning as fast as it should. I found two wires were switched around at the switch connections. Corrected that and no problems since then.

  7. PS, I got my heavy battery cables and a strong 6 volt battery from a shop near my old Glendora place. Battery Sales Unlimited, 651 E Route 66 ( or, the street formerly known as Alosta Avenue). The three cables they made up from scratch using 2/0 cable. Total cost was about $30. Just give them the lengths of the three off your car and they will make them up while you wait. They sell Interstate batteries but I chose their in-house brand because it had a higher amperage rating. it was $65 with tax and is a real strong 6 volt. The car starts great even in cold weather with that setup.

    Good luck!

  8. Hi Robert, sorry to hear Jenny is not feeling well. Here are a couple things I would be sure to check. Disconnect the battery ground cable first. I know you've worked under your dashboard before, so all connections are suspect. It doesn't take much pressure on a wire to loosen the little nut or screw that attaches it to a switch or a meter. A loose connection can get real hot and cause erratic problems.

    Check all connections at the headlight switch for good tight connections.

    While you're under the dashboard, check both of the connections at the ammeter for good tight connections (loose ones can kill your starting circuit).

    The stock fuse on a P15 headlight switch was a 30 amp according to my book. If you use a 30 amp fuse it should be adequate whether you run 6, 8 or 12 volts.

    Check the wires and connections at the floor dimmer switch.

    Go up front near the radiator and find the terminal block where the headlight wires are connected. Make sure all connections there are clean and tight.

    Check where both headlight ground wires are connected to ground. I think you'll need to take the headlight retainer rings off and partially pull out the headlight bulbs to do this. Don't mess with the adjusting screws, just the screws that hold in the retainer ring. Take each grounding screw loose and make sure things are shiny clean (sand off any corrosion) and tight.

    Since the fuse is not burning out immediately, I don't think you are dealing with a dead short.

    How about that replacement switch? Has it been in and working ok for a while, or did the problem come up right after you installed it? If it was a generic 12 volt switch it may be getting hot due to the higher amperage load in a 6 volt system.

    When you put the switch in did you have to graft in any new wire? If so, it would need to be heavy stuff like the original, probably at least 14 gauge, and securely soldered to the old wire.

    After you do all this, and you find the starter will not even click and the headlights don't work at all, open the hood and reconnect the battery ground cable;)

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