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MBFowler

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  1. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to Dodgeb4ya in Split Ring Tire Question   
    And the type the old 40's early 50's dodge medium duty 5 or 6 bolt trucks used,... side split ring as shown... much easier and safer to deal with if serviced right and not rusty...

  2. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to Young Ed in Fresh Air Intake (hose)   
    This is to force outside air through the heater in colder weather vs the cowl vent for cooling during hotter weather
  3. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from Brent B3B in 5spd trans in ‘47 WF 1.5 ton   
    I have a 5 spd in my 49 B2JA.  Only 4th and 5th are synchronized.  Same final drive ratio as the 3 spd in my 49 1 ton @ 1.00-1. You should check the front mounts to see if you need to swap bell housings, and the location of the parking brake handle.  Then there is the drive shaft length and yoke size.  Not trying to be negative, just pointing out the things that you may want to check.
  4. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from Frank Elder in Non vented oil filler cap   
    I modified the road draft tubea on my 2.5 on.  I cut it off at the fitting and welded a nipple on the end.  That nipple has a hose with a PDV valvle in it going to a vacuum source on the intake manifold.  The sintered oil cap was replace with one from an early slant six that also had a nipple on it.  I ran a hose from the fill cap to the air cleaner to hopefully assure a cleaner source of air for the crankcase.   So far, so good..........  to be continued..
  5. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from Worden18 in Distributor - Which One to Use?   
    I just replaced the points and condenser in the dist of my 49 1 ton.  Not because of reliability, but because they haven’t been touched in the 25 years I’ve had the truck running.  I adjust them every 5 yrs whether they need it or not.  Going to do the same thing in the 2.5 ton.  I just replaced the distributor from a parts truck that has been sitting for 20 yrs in a field.  Cleaned up the point, lubed and adjusted them and fired it up.  I like the stuff you can see where the problem is, but I’m old.
  6. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from Dodgeb4ya in Distributor - Which One to Use?   
    I just replaced the points and condenser in the dist of my 49 1 ton.  Not because of reliability, but because they haven’t been touched in the 25 years I’ve had the truck running.  I adjust them every 5 yrs whether they need it or not.  Going to do the same thing in the 2.5 ton.  I just replaced the distributor from a parts truck that has been sitting for 20 yrs in a field.  Cleaned up the point, lubed and adjusted them and fired it up.  I like the stuff you can see where the problem is, but I’m old.
  7. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to Ksb517 in 48 B1D Dually   
    Getting close to the end



  8. Thanks
    MBFowler got a reaction from Frank Elder in Converting to Rack and Pinion Power Steering   
    Most semis use a frame mounted steering box with a pitman arm / draglink setup.  I'm not aware of any r/p steering for big trucks with straight axles.  I'm trying to understand how an axle mounted r/p setup would work given all the movement that goes on with the axle.  Not saying it can't be done, just trying to figure out how it would work safely.   Mike
  9. Haha
    MBFowler reacted to doogan in Throw out bearing problem   
    Thanks guys.    Finally got it in after following your instructions.   A learning curve included as I had never worked on a dodge truck myself.   Removed the clutch adjustment fixture or whatever it is called and the bearing shaft moved freely back enough to insert the bearing and carrier.  Put the adjustment thing back on and all done.   I was concerned if I took the pedal off and got the bearing in then the bearing fork would not go forward enough to get pedal back on.   Once I found the pedal stays on it was over and done.
    Thanks again!!!
  10. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to JBNeal in Steering gearbox refresh   
    What's the condition of that grease?  If the grease is dirty, lumpy, multi-colored, it may have accumulated condensation that mixed some rust or other contaminants in with the lubricant, which may have also started to emulsify...displacing moisture is why I prefer to fill as much of the gearbox with JD corn head grease as possible, getting all the air out by working the gears back and forth...if the grease is pristine, smears easily between the fingers, doesn't smell musty, then check that system off of your list
  11. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from Tony_Urwin in Window glass   
    I've got clear in my 1 ton, and when I bought the 2.5 ton it has a lightly tinted brown glass which I really like.
  12. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from Jim G in Old fuel.   
    I pulled the plug on mine before sealing it.  I think it was just a 1/2” drive ratchet w an extension.  I was surprised how easily it came out.  Use good judgement and finesse.  You may be surprised.
  13. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to Dodgeb4ya in Chinese Autolite spark plugs   
    You can still pay the highest price for an item after searching for only the best only to find out it's still inferior and the see that tiny hidden label..
    "Made in China"
    I never look for cheap stuff that I need in my projects..
    I want good quality and am willing to pay for it. Better not be Chi-com junk.
    Guess I'm the odd ball.
    Yeah try to find a good condenser these days or points.
  14. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to RobertKB in Chinese Autolite spark plugs   
    Most people just buy what is cheapest in cost and often get cheapest in quality. Until consumers are prepared to pay a higher price for quality North American goods (I include Canada in making good products) nothing will change. I always look first for North American but you cannot always find what you want and are forced into buying from overseas. Although some overseas products are just fine, a lot are junk. 
  15. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to Los_Control in Chinese Autolite spark plugs   
    May be a good time to start making products in USA again .... How about condensers for our old cars.
    What would it take to setup a shop just to make a good quality condenser? I really have no idea whats involved in making one.
    Start  with a single condenser for old mopars and make them good. I bet you would be selling them for a profit all over the world.
    Of course the same condenser will work on several other model vehicles ... later when prepared add more tooling and another model condenser. Widen the market.
     
    For the right person, might be a good way to spend some time. Look at the my pillow guy ... pick one item and make it the best.
    If someone had a ambitious son or grandson that was full of energy and wanted to get involved, You could easily expand into a product with more demand.
    With todays administration deregulating and changing tax laws, encouraging to bring back manufacturing, Today may be a good time to jump in.
     
     
     
     
  16. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to Plymouthy Adams in Chinese Autolite spark plugs   
    It is not hard to understand this....disappointing yes...but this has been in the making for past two generations...Not as many visionaries today, most folks today can't see past their own reflection in a mirror.
  17. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from ggdad1951 in a little challenge for you all   
    Tilt nose bracket?
     
  18. Thanks
    MBFowler reacted to Dodgeb4ya in Dodge T110L Eaton axle   
    5.83 to 8.11 is what you will get in an old Dodge Eaton 1350 2 speed axle.
  19. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from 50mech in Heat Riser Seized   
    Yea, eventually you're going to have to pull and split the manifolds to get to the problem and properly fix it.  I leave the one on the 230 in my 1 ton open.  Years ago the one on my 36 Plymouth was stuck closed, and she ran hot and wouldn't start when hot with the 6 volt system.  It was also kinda sluggish.  Luckily the manifold came off and apart very easily.  I did the proper repair on that one.  She still won't smoke the tires, but she's better than she was.  I gotta look at the one on the 251 in the old firetruck once I get where I can lay over the fender again.  The military used a manually adjustable baffle that you put in one posistion for cold weather driving, and at the other end for warm weather.   Mike
  20. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from 50mech in Heat Riser Seized   
    Try a penetrating oil.  If that doesn't work, MoPar dealers used to have a heat riser lubricant that they used that actually loosened up a stuck flapper in my Dad's 40 Plymouth.  Performance may suffer, and she may run a little warm.  I think you'll need to be concerned with gas boiling in the carb after a run so it may be hard starting when hot.
  21. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from JBNeal in L- 6 PCV system revisited   
    I used one from a MoPar slant six.  Wipers still work fine, but my wolf whistle is weaker sounding due to the reduced residual vacuum.  Mike
  22. Like
    MBFowler got a reaction from JBNeal in Manifold Stud Replacement   
    On my slant 6 I used brass nuts and the high temp antiseize when I did the rebuild.  Never know when its gonna have to come apart again.  I think I did the same thing when I did the valve job in the 230 in my 49 1 ton.  
  23. Like
    MBFowler reacted to Merle Coggins in New door panels (interior)   
    I did find some pics of my doors before disassembly, showing the original cardboard door card installation.

     

     

     
    I got my interior from Quiet Ride Solutions. https://www.quietride.com/index.html
    I've been very happy with it since completion. It is made from ABS plastic that can be painted, with the proper paint.
    I went through some struggles during the install process that I have documented on this forum.
     
    I didn't use the push button fasteners with the new one, just new stainless screws with trim washers.
     

     
     
  24. Like
    MBFowler reacted to Brent B3B in Axle swap b-4-d   
    I apologize if you have seen or heard me say this before 
    I recently had Les Schwab do mine. (2018)

     
    power coated and radials!    handles and stops well for me (and I have the drum brakes)
     
    good luck on yours
  25. Like
    MBFowler reacted to JBNeal in Axle swap b-4-d   
    I had access to 2 tire shops that would do locking ring rims cuz they did big truck tires, but then the shop in Waco denied ever doing locking ring rims at all one day when I had a flat several years ago, and the shop in Temple mounted my nearly new set of tires with the old tubes because they forgot that they had some new tubes sitting on the shelf 20 feet away   I had watched both shops inflate tires with no safety equipment other than a locking air chuck while standing within spittin' distance and was a little bothered by their lapse in judgment.  Several years later, I was in a local parts store that had a Ken Tool display with the right hammers, pry bars and spoon bars to do the job myself, all made in the USA, so I got what I needed and started doing research on approved methods and safety equipment.   I found some good literature on modern locking ring rim servicing that was helpful, but this video was the best one I could find that was done correctly without a safety cage, using chains instead.  I have seen pictures of guys also using their tractor loader bucket or a forklift as other alternatives to the safety cage.  This video also shows why it's kinda silly to try to get these rims super pretty with expensive powder coating, etc as they literally need to be beaten with hammers to get them to come apart and go back together.  The rims can be cleaned up nicely on a budget, but making them pristine seems kinda needlessly expensive  
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