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MBF

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Everything posted by MBF

  1. MBF
    Watash-that flexible wire is the wire from the point contact tips to the ground side of the coil. When the points close, it allows the coil to discharge by collapsing the fields in the secondary windings-this is what creates the spark that is sent to the distributor to be routed to the correct spark plug. It is flexible because the base plate will move slightly with the vacuum advance so it can't be mounted tightly to the housing. If that wire, or if the insulated post that passes through the base of the distributor housing is shorted to ground you won't have any spark as the coil will be constantly grounded. If you go back to my original reply, you will see a method to test the coil and points circuit.
  2. MBF
    If you take the coil wire out of the center of the dist cap and put it near a good grounds, when you manually open and close the points it shoud fire to ground each time the points close. If it does, that would eliminate the coil as being the problem. That short flexible wire goes from the points, to an insulated pheonolic fastener to the outside of the dist housing to the ground side of the coil. If its loose, broken, or shorted you won't have any fire.
  3. MBF
    I'm gonna make a guess here and say that your float arm mechanism is on the wrong side of the pivot causing it to read backwards of what it should. The sender itself is a progressive or variable ground.
  4. MBF
    If you just want rollers, 6 lug Budd's from an IH, or Ford will fit, as will the 16" drop center rims from an IH with the hubcap clips. Later model Dodges used 16.5, and 17 inch rims that will also bolt up. If you want to run duals though, you need the rims with the dual offset. Good luck w your search-they're out there.
  5. MBF
    I was part of this original thread. I used GM internally regulated alternators on both of my conversions, and 12v coils. I also bypassed the ammeter on my truck due to the added lights. I have a ballast resistor on my heater motors-they've been working fine on both vehicles for years. On the truck, I fused all of the lights, heater, and other accessories individually. Vacuum wipers on both vehicles so no need to do anything there. Good luck.
  6. MBF
    Make sure that you have a good battery to body ground. The voltage regulator needs a good ground to work properly. Had this problem with one of mine, and you may want to dress the points with some crocus cloth to make sure the contacts are clean. I thought mine was bad, but it ended up being a ground problem.
  7. MBF
    7.50's depending on the brand are tight on the duals with almost no space between them-not enough to get a finger between them. . I went w the 7.00's for mine. I used to have pics of the single and dual rims to show the difference, but I can't find 'em.
  8. MBF
    I think you've got a hanging intake valve if its blowing back through the carb.
  9. MBF
    I've seen these stuck so bad that they've pushed the valve guide up out of its original position. Still have that engine-truck sat for years outside, but it ran great when it was parked! I bought a 46 2 ton dump a few yrs back. Got a deal on it because it was running on only 5 cyls. When they delivered it he started it on the trailer, I choked it off on MMO and a short time later I heard it clunk. Started it back up-hitting on all 6. Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes the bear bites you.
  10. MBF
    Not sure, but I think the purpose of the bypass was to let a limited amount of coolant pass through the system when the vehicle was cold. That way the rear cyls wouldn't get overly hot while waiting for the thermostat to open, and you'd have some heat out of the heater if so equipped. I don't believe there was a difference between the two when the thermostats were open. If I'm wrong-someone please correct me.
  11. MBF
    Give it a shot of Marvel Mystery oil down the carb, and run some in the gas. We've had to do that for years with our flattys-they sit too much.
  12. MBF
    If you get a rotating variable resistor switch you should be able to control the speed of the fan.
  13. MBF
    W/o knowing what your actual oil pressure is showing, you may want to look at the lower half of the engine. If this is in a truck, you should be able to remove the pan from under the vehicle.. Jack the truck by the frame and support it on stands with the front suspension hanging and relaxed. That will give you room to drop the pan and check the bottom end.
  14. MBF
    With any type of valve (dash operated or the under hood petcock type) I think I'd want coolant in the heating circuit-especially if you run antifreeze in your system. That will reduce the probability of corrosion, and since the valve is only on 1 end of the circuit, unless it seals 100% you're probably still going to have coolant in it. I turn mine off under the hood in the spring, and on in the fall. Sometimes over the summer I'll move the valves on all my old stuff so they don't seize up. Just my 2 cents.
  15. MBF
    Cordell-measure carefully on the 19.5 drop centers. They may not clear the brake drums-especially the inner rears.
  16. MBF
    I've gotten mine through NAPA, and I think there are a long and short version. Either will bolt up and fit behind the radiator (the long one is a tight fit) but if you're converting to that style from the shorter version, you'll need a pulley with enough offset to line up with the crank and generator pulleys to keep the belt aligned. Mike
  17. MBF
    I think you're right that it is the thrust pad. What does your pinion look like? I would think it would have to be pretty chewed up to leave those grooves, but I don't understand how it could make contact with the carrier unless the yoke nut was loose. I'd be interested to see what you find.
  18. MBF
    On my slant 6 I used brass nuts and the high temp antiseize when I did the rebuild. Never know when its gonna have to come apart again. I think I did the same thing when I did the valve job in the 230 in my 49 1 ton.
  19. MBF
    Check RockAuto and Partsgeek. I think they both have them for the larger trucks.
  20. MBF
    I think I would put a staked mark on the face of the pintion nut and the pinion threads to return the nut to the existing tightness and not change the pinion bearing preload. That was advised on another post on this forum years ago. Mike
  21. MBF
    My 49 1 ton does the same thing. I've got new shoes, cyls, seals, and lines on it, and had the drum cut. I've had the hub off several times to see what is going on. There is nothing leaking and nothing visibly wrong that I can see.. It would lock up the left front in the first stop after it sits in the garage a few days. So now when I back it out of the garage I drag the brake for a wheel rotation or 2 and its fine. I'm anxious to see what you find.
  22. MBF
    I use an ignition ballast resistor on the heater motors for my 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth. Been using them for years (although not every day drivers) w/o an issue. Those motors are tough-I pulled one out of my parts truck that had been sitting in the woods w/o windshields in it for at least 25 yrs.. The motor looked shot, but when I hooked it up to a batt it ran fine, and quiet. I oiled it, and put it on the shelf in case I ever need it.
  23. MBF
    I can get one tomorrow. I've got enough parts to restore it. It did run, but had low oil pressure. I've got another good flatty and a trans to put in it. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
  24. MBF
    I've got a 230 Chrysler Industrial in a Worthington Golf Chief tractor. I needed an exhaust manifold years ago for my 1 ton, so I "borrowed" the one off the industiral. The intake has a built in plenum under the carb. Not sure what the purpose is.
  25. MBF
    For the wiper parking positions, on the vacuum setup you can switch the parked positions by swapping the actuating arm's positions on the pivot arm on the vacuum motor. I just did this on one of mine. I think you might run into problems switching in an electric setup on a B1 or B2. The transmissions are in different positions, and the actuating arms are different, but I could be wrong on this.
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