MBF

Thanks W2 for the info

I just replaced the points and condenser in the dist of my 49 1 ton. Not because of reliability, but because they haven’t been touched in the 25 years I’ve had the truck running. I adjust them every 5 yrs whether they need it or not. Going to do the same thing in the 2.5 ton. I just replaced the distributor from a parts truck that has been sitting for 20 yrs in a field. Cleaned up the point, lubed and adjusted them and fired it up. I like the stuff you can see where the problem is, but I’m old.

W2. Do you have a p/n for this unit.? What year Wagoneer? Thanks. Mike

I did the same thing as Los Control. Strips cut from an old tractor tube.

When I did the clutch in mine, I removed the pedal yoke from the shaft and was able to move the arm back far enough to get the throwout bearing in. I recall it was like one of those metal magic ring things you had as a kid. Keep moving it around and eventually they went together.

I've got clear in my 1 ton, and when I bought the 2.5 ton it has a lightly tinted brown glass which I really like.

I pulled the plug on mine before sealing it. I think it was just a 1/2” drive ratchet w an extension. I was surprised how easily it came out. Use good judgement and finesse. You may be surprised.

I’d remove the gauge, and then with an analog ohm meter (not digital) move the sending unit arm through its full range of motion slowly and look for a smooth sweep of the needle on the meter. If it jumps, or drops that would confirm a bad spot in the rheostat on the sending unit.

JBN thanks. I just remembered I have an oil fill cap from a slant6 that has a factory nipple on it, and an original air filter housing with the same setup. My experiment continues! As far as the PCV valve chattering, the one in my truck has done that for the last 39 years I’ve owned it. Sure do miss owl’ Greybeard. Spent some time w him and his brother at our truck show in Macungie PA years ago. A walking encyclopedia of common sense!

The rough running engine may be due to a lean condition caused by the PCV using a source of vacuum to properly work. This creates an additional source for air to enter the combustion chamber around the carb intake and air filter directly from the crankcase. I’ve made up 3 of these systems experimenting with different components on each. Each one uses a shortenened and blocked off road draft tube with a nipple welded on attached to a vacuum hose. I left the nipple pointing upward so that any accumulated vapor can drain back into the engine when not running. The best working one uses a valve from a slant 6 which I chose due to it being a similar displacement of the flatties. I t’d directly off the intake manifold as a vacuum source. If you have vacuum wipers you’ll notice a difference in their performance because they now share their vac source w the PCV system. It definitely keeps the oil cleaner than the old draft tube setup.

How can you move the harp with the front fender brackets mounted to it w/o messing up the figment for the nose?

I used a light coating of Never-seize on the rear of my 36 and 40 Plymouth’s years ago when doing rear cyls and they came apart easily about a year ago when sleeving the cyls on the 36. A whole lot easier than the first time!

Wow nice job. Those rims give the truck attitude! How does the flatty like the 3.23 rear gears? Thinking of doing a swap in my slant 6 pickup for more highway speed.

Tilt nose bracket?

I’ve got em on both of mine

I had a similar hesitation on my dad’s 40 Plymouth. Rebuilt the carb,but no shot from the accel pump. Tuns out there is a tiny jet at the top of the carb w a removable cap on it. Inside that cap was a plugged jet that had to be opened. Up (I used an old banjo string). I also soaked the new plunger in oil for a while to soften the leather before installing it. Runs fine now. Good luck

Ive got half ton springs in my 1 ton in the front. They were identical in leaf count and height to the originals that I replaced them with.. now I’m really confused!

I wouldnt use brakeclean on a steering wheel as a prep. I think a wax and grease remover would be kinder to the Bakelite. I unsend epoxy to repair both of mine and then rattle canned w a clear coat. Both are holding up well

My b1d116 doesn’t have helpers or their supports. I was told by another collector that this is a heavy 3/4 ton since it has the 3 spd trans.. I’ve seen a few in this configuration. I have a 52 1 ton that does have the helper and it has a 4 speed. I did some research on this and Dun Bunn’s bible on p 90 shows a D 126 similar to mine w/o helper springs in a single wheel configuration. With the full floating rear and proper rims it could be easily made into a dually but i’m Not sure how that would change the load rating. So my assumption is that it is a one ton in single or duals, but how do the helper springs change the load rating?

The one tons had a helper spring pack stacked on top of the regular springs. A dually 3/4 ton doesn’t have the helpers. Neither had rear shocks as oem

Check to see if it contains a dual filament bulb.. if it does one wire will be for the turn signal and the other for a parking light. In that case it would still ground through the housing.

Depepending on your drum size, the 19.5’s may not fit over the drum on the inner rears since they’re drop centers

Contact ESPO Spring. They have them in stock

What does the glass sedient bowl look like under the fuel pump? You may be bringing up particulate matter from the gas tank and plugging that new filter. Could also be a sticky valve, or ignition problem. Are all ignition wires tightly connected? How about inside the distributor?? Just some stuff to try

The drop center 22.5 rims are out there, not in great quantities, and expensive. The ability to find 22.5's is great, but not cheap either. Nothing wrong withe the 20" locking ring rims if they're in good shape, the limitation is finding tires. Personally, if the truck isn't being used regularly, I'd stay with the bias ply 20" tube tires-they don't deteriorate as quickly as a radial will from sitting.