MBFowler

I have a 5 spd in my 49 B2JA. Only 4th and 5th are synchronized. Same final drive ratio as the 3 spd in my 49 1 ton @ 1.00-1. You should check the front mounts to see if you need to swap bell housings, and the location of the parking brake handle. Then there is the drive shaft length and yoke size. Not trying to be negative, just pointing out the things that you may want to check.

I modified the road draft tubea on my 2.5 on. I cut it off at the fitting and welded a nipple on the end. That nipple has a hose with a PDV valvle in it going to a vacuum source on the intake manifold. The sintered oil cap was replace with one from an early slant six that also had a nipple on it. I ran a hose from the fill cap to the air cleaner to hopefully assure a cleaner source of air for the crankcase. So far, so good.......... to be continued..

Just did the points/condenser in mine as part of a distributor swap. Haven’t touched the ones in my one ton other than to gap them for the 25 yrs I’ve had it.

Thanks W2 for the info

I just replaced the points and condenser in the dist of my 49 1 ton. Not because of reliability, but because they haven’t been touched in the 25 years I’ve had the truck running. I adjust them every 5 yrs whether they need it or not. Going to do the same thing in the 2.5 ton. I just replaced the distributor from a parts truck that has been sitting for 20 yrs in a field. Cleaned up the point, lubed and adjusted them and fired it up. I like the stuff you can see where the problem is, but I’m old.

W2. Do you have a p/n for this unit.? What year Wagoneer? Thanks. Mike

I did the same thing as Los Control. Strips cut from an old tractor tube.

When I did the clutch in mine, I removed the pedal yoke from the shaft and was able to move the arm back far enough to get the throwout bearing in. I recall it was like one of those metal magic ring things you had as a kid. Keep moving it around and eventually they went together.

I've got clear in my 1 ton, and when I bought the 2.5 ton it has a lightly tinted brown glass which I really like.

I pulled the plug on mine before sealing it. I think it was just a 1/2” drive ratchet w an extension. I was surprised how easily it came out. Use good judgement and finesse. You may be surprised.

I’d remove the gauge, and then with an analog ohm meter (not digital) move the sending unit arm through its full range of motion slowly and look for a smooth sweep of the needle on the meter. If it jumps, or drops that would confirm a bad spot in the rheostat on the sending unit.

JBN thanks. I just remembered I have an oil fill cap from a slant6 that has a factory nipple on it, and an original air filter housing with the same setup. My experiment continues! As far as the PCV valve chattering, the one in my truck has done that for the last 39 years I’ve owned it. Sure do miss owl’ Greybeard. Spent some time w him and his brother at our truck show in Macungie PA years ago. A walking encyclopedia of common sense!

The rough running engine may be due to a lean condition caused by the PCV using a source of vacuum to properly work. This creates an additional source for air to enter the combustion chamber around the carb intake and air filter directly from the crankcase. I’ve made up 3 of these systems experimenting with different components on each. Each one uses a shortenened and blocked off road draft tube with a nipple welded on attached to a vacuum hose. I left the nipple pointing upward so that any accumulated vapor can drain back into the engine when not running. The best working one uses a valve

How can you move the harp with the front fender brackets mounted to it w/o messing up the figment for the nose?

I used a light coating of Never-seize on the rear of my 36 and 40 Plymouth’s years ago when doing rear cyls and they came apart easily about a year ago when sleeving the cyls on the 36. A whole lot easier than the first time!