MBFowler

Tilt nose bracket?

I’ve got em on both of mine

I had a similar hesitation on my dad’s 40 Plymouth. Rebuilt the carb,but no shot from the accel pump. Tuns out there is a tiny jet at the top of the carb w a removable cap on it. Inside that cap was a plugged jet that had to be opened. Up (I used an old banjo string). I also soaked the new plunger in oil for a while to soften the leather before installing it. Runs fine now. Good luck

Ive got half ton springs in my 1 ton in the front. They were identical in leaf count and height to the originals that I replaced them with.. now I’m really confused!

I wouldnt use brakeclean on a steering wheel as a prep. I think a wax and grease remover would be kinder to the Bakelite. I unsend epoxy to repair both of mine and then rattle canned w a clear coat. Both are holding up well

My b1d116 doesn’t have helpers or their supports. I was told by another collector that this is a heavy 3/4 ton since it has the 3 spd trans.. I’ve seen a few in this configuration. I have a 52 1 ton that does have the helper and it has a 4 speed. I did some research on this and Dun Bunn’s bible on p 90 shows a D 126 similar to mine w/o helper springs in a single wheel configuration. With the full floating rear and proper rims it could be easily made into a dually but i’m Not sure how that would change the load rating. So my assumption is that it is a one ton in single or duals, but how do the helper springs change the load rating?

The one tons had a helper spring pack stacked on top of the regular springs. A dually 3/4 ton doesn’t have the helpers. Neither had rear shocks as oem

Check to see if it contains a dual filament bulb.. if it does one wire will be for the turn signal and the other for a parking light. In that case it would still ground through the housing.

Depepending on your drum size, the 19.5’s may not fit over the drum on the inner rears since they’re drop centers

Contact ESPO Spring. They have them in stock

What does the glass sedient bowl look like under the fuel pump? You may be bringing up particulate matter from the gas tank and plugging that new filter. Could also be a sticky valve, or ignition problem. Are all ignition wires tightly connected? How about inside the distributor?? Just some stuff to try

The drop center 22.5 rims are out there, not in great quantities, and expensive. The ability to find 22.5's is great, but not cheap either. Nothing wrong withe the 20" locking ring rims if they're in good shape, the limitation is finding tires. Personally, if the truck isn't being used regularly, I'd stay with the bias ply 20" tube tires-they don't deteriorate as quickly as a radial will from sitting.

Watash-that flexible wire is the wire from the point contact tips to the ground side of the coil. When the points close, it allows the coil to discharge by collapsing the fields in the secondary windings-this is what creates the spark that is sent to the distributor to be routed to the correct spark plug. It is flexible because the base plate will move slightly with the vacuum advance so it can't be mounted tightly to the housing. If that wire, or if the insulated post that passes through the base of the distributor housing is shorted to ground you won't have any spark as the coil will be constantly grounded. If you go back to my original reply, you will see a method to test the coil and points circuit.

If you take the coil wire out of the center of the dist cap and put it near a good grounds, when you manually open and close the points it shoud fire to ground each time the points close. If it does, that would eliminate the coil as being the problem. That short flexible wire goes from the points, to an insulated pheonolic fastener to the outside of the dist housing to the ground side of the coil. If its loose, broken, or shorted you won't have any fire.

I'm gonna make a guess here and say that your float arm mechanism is on the wrong side of the pivot causing it to read backwards of what it should. The sender itself is a progressive or variable ground.