soth122003

Sounds like when you floored it you sucked some debris into the carb. It settled in the idle circuit. Just pull the carb and clean it then blow out the passages with compressed air and it should work. Also check your fuel filters for sediment and debris. Joe

Try a heat gun on low to soften up the weather stripping. Makes the rubber more pliable. Joe Lee

Check the engine and tranny mounts. If they are flat or crushed it will bind the shift linkage.

Rotate your distributor shaft 180 degrees. If your truck was running before, your probably put the disturb in 180 degrees out. For the flathead 6 engines, with the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke, your distributor rotor should be at about the 7 oclock position. Joe Lee

Downdraft tube? Joe Lee

Hey Knuckleharley, I already replace the lines and hoses a few years ago. At the same time I rebuilt and honed all the wheel cylinders and the MC. Just that that particular wheel cylinder was the worst of the lot. It had some pitting issues I could not get out. The cylinder now has a small gouge about .0005 deep from the piston in that cylinder. I also heard most of the new wheel cylinders made today are crap and won't last but a few years, so I will have the old ones bored and re-sleeved in brass. Being I am on a very limited budget for the next few months/years, and it is six wheel cylinders (2 for each front) I'll buy the one I need now and re-sleeve that one then do the same for the other one in a few months. When I have a front one leaking I'll do the same thing again. Sorta spreading the lump sum payment out so to speak. Gotta do this for now as Momma's car is in the shop awaiting a new engine due to a wrist pin going bad at 71000 mile and the engine is on back order for the next few weeks, making my car the primary until hers is fixed. Gotta love that 100000 mile and 10 year warranty. Oh and FYI, I already have a grill plus complete set of front end trim as well as the wing windows, beauty rings, hub caps and some assorted trim pieces for the car should I need them. Came with the car when I bought it. Joe Lee

Well it was the left rear wheel cylinder. I cleaned it and honed the cylinder yesterday and when I checked this morning I had a puddle of fluid under the left rear tire. Good thing I didn't return the drum puller. Pulled it apart and it was dripping good. Didn't drip till I pulled it and attempted to repair. Pulled it today honed it again and used a cylinder kit for repair, an hour later it was dripping again. I guess the corrosion was to much. New wheel cylinder will be here tomorrow. Since I am waiting for the wheel cylinder I thought I would check the MC. Disconnected the rear brake line and plugged the MC and BAM, the pedal was rock hard at 1 1/2 inches of travel. The thing that weirded me out about this was the pedal wasn't spongy, just low. With the one pump to bring the pedal up it felt like an adjustment issue. I guess with the corrosion issue it would not let the wheel cylinder work right even though it wasn't leaking bad (the drum area was moist). Once I get the new wheel cylinder, I'll flush and bleed the system.

I am going thru this problem right now. I adjusted all the brake shoes, checked for leaks and I found a leaky corroded wheel cylinder and fixed it but still have the problem. I am thinking that I have a problem with the Master Cylinder causing the brake pedal to be low.. My current theory is the brake fluid is about 4-5 years old and has a little water mixed in now and that has caused crud to form in the MC bore and is causing one of the cups not to seal well. So when I press the pedal it is firm at about 2 inches from the floor, but you can pump it one to two more times and the pedal is firm at about 1-2 inches of travel. I am fixing to pull the MC and check and will update later today.

If you have vacuum windshield wipers, you can connect there or on the carb at the distributor advance connection. Also on most carter carbs there is a screw you can remove and tap in there, usually between the air screw and the idle screw. Joe Lee

Thanks for tip kencombs. Been timing mine with the light since I got it and the best I could do on vacuum was about 16-17, Used the vacuum gage just now and it is purring like a kitten then roars like a lion with the gas pedal. The vacuum gage is now reading just shy of 21. Of coarse the throttle plate rod is wore some so I am sucking air in there and have to run the idle about 600-700.. Joe Lee

Mine is a rolling restoration. In other words, I had enough money to get it drivable, but not enough to paint and upholster. That being said, I drive mine at least a couple of times a week around town or to work and back. Joe Lee

I don't know what others have said or done, but my understanding is in city driving tubes are ok. At hi-way speeds, if a piece of the steel from the radial pokes a hole in the tube it could cause a bad accident. Usually the edges of the radial tire at the bead area is where this happens. I had this happen once to me but luckily no accident, but the tire was ruined. Joe Lee

The oil fill tube should be a hand tight fit. I don.t believe there is an o-ring or gasket on these tubes. There made to pull out by hand to facilitate other work on the engine. Joe Lee

In your service manual, it should have the specs for the front end data to include the tire size. It will list it in inches so you have to convert it to the metric of modern tire size. This should help find the correct size for your car. Pre-1964 1965-72 80 series metric Alpha Numeric 78 series P-Metric 75 series Radial P-Metric 70 series Radial 5.90-13 600-13 165-13 A78-13 P165/75R13 P175/70R13 6.40-13 650-13 175-13 B78-13 P175/75R13 P185/70R13 7.25-13 700-13 185-13 D78-13 P185/75R13 P205/70R13 5.90-14 645-14 155-14 B78-14 P175/75R14 P185/70R14 6.50-14 695-14 175-14 C78-14 P185/75R14 P195/70R14 7.00-14 735-14 185-14 E78-14 P195/75R14 P205/70R14 7.50-14 775-14 195-14 F78-14 P205/75R14 P215/70R14 8.00-14 825-14 205-14 G78-14 P215/75R14 P225/70R14 8.50-14 855-14 215-14 H78-14 P225/75R14 P235/70R14 5.90-15 600-15 165-15 A78-15 P165/75R15 P175/70R15 6.50-15 685-15 175-15 C78-15 P175/75R15 P185/70R15 6.40-15 735-15 185-15 E78-15 P195/75R15 P205/70R15 6.70-15 775-15 195-15 F78-15 P205/75R15 P215/70R15 7.10-15 825-15 205-15 G78-15 P215/75R15 P225/70R15 7.60-15 855-15 215-15 H78-15 P225/75R15 P235/70R15 8.00-15 885-15 230-15 J78-15 P225/75R15 P235/70R15 8.20-15 900-15 235-15 L78-15 P235/75R15 P255/70R15

Yep! I wanted to use bead balancing instead of tire weights so it would not scratch up the rims. The real beads for balance are expensive, but while I was in wal mart I saw the air soft BBs and the whole bottle was about 20 ounces. Just divide by 5 and you got four tires and the spare. The nice thing is they will continually balance the tire for it's life on the rim. Check out any bead balancing web site to see how they work. Joe Lee

Hey Hickory, I had the same problem. Got the oval valve stems, wire brushed the bead seat area( the whole rim in fact), painted the rims put a nice set of radials on (added 4 ozs of air soft BBs to each tire for the balance. That was four years ago and the tires still hold air and the car still tracks straight with no shimmies or vibes. Joe Lee

Cheaper and easier to rebuild the flattie. Quick check to see what really needs to be done is pull the plugs and try to turn the engine by hand. If it turns decent, Use a jump pack to the starter and do a compression check. If compression is good real easy to get it running from there. Joe

Easy way to tell. Start car and warm up. Choke in, throttle in, turn on lights and/or heater then watch the amp meter drop. Pull out fast idle until gage reaches positive charging. Joe

The real purpose of the throttle/fast idle was to increase the rpm at night so the lights would not drain the battery at prolonged stops or low driving speed. The generator has to be spinning at a certain rpm to overcome the amp draw the lights and heater produced. Usually about 1000 to 1500 rpm. Joe

That graying is the oxidation on the chrome. I used a brillo pad on mine. Shined right up but still have the pitting. After using the brillo pad put a coat of wax on the chrome to keep shiny. Only way to get rid of the pitting is to re-chrome and that gets expensive. Joe

Did you bench check the starter to see if it sticks after you re-lubed it? A lot of Mechs now-a-days think the more grease the better the lube. Just think back to the old Brylcream commercial, "A little dab will do you". For the bench check a 12v jump pack will work fine as long as you don't leave it running for more than 15 to 30 seconds. Just turn the switch on spool it up, turn it off and wait for it to wind down before testing again. If it works on the bench, check the flywheel, if the flywheel is good, check the electrical. How did the bypass switch check work? Or the jump pack to the starter? Joe

Some one definitely shortened the rod. Can only think of 2 reasons why. 1. The bowl portion of the carb was cracked or broke in some way and it was replace with a different model that would fit but needed a shorter accel pump rod. probably cut the spring to fit as well. 2. Some racer/know-it-all trying to get more fuel spurt from a shorter rod when stomping on the gas. What does the accel pump rod linkage look like?

Check the starter button on the dash and make sure it is not sticking closed. Do this buy using a remote start switch at the neg batt terminal and the starter relay small post with the key on. If the problem is still there, then use a jump pack with key on and spin the starter directly by-passing the starter relay. ( I usually go pos to pos ground and neg to starter lug) If you still have the problem it is the starter. Had my starter button stick before, as well as a starter relay be bad right out of the box.

My vacuum motor sucked as well. Tried the oil in the vacuum line, got a little better. Then found this site http://www.wiperman.com/ . Sent my motor off and got it back a couple weeks later working like a champ. Still going up hills will stall the wipers but I live with it. Joe Lee

Same here. Used to take the RV and tow my bike behind and stay a Elkmont campground for a week or so. Ride the Dragon, the Cherola Skyway, highway 411 to Clingman's Dome. Of course when you finish the ride, supper at The Old Mill reseraunt. Damn that is some good food. Joe