soth122003

I got my mounts from Andy B's. They ere the soft kind and worked great. Joe Lee

When that oil is made into a mist (or a vapor from heat), you also have to take into effect the vacuum and pressure at the valves themselves. The action of the piston creates good pressure and vacuum, 100 psi or so. When either the exhaust or intake valve opens the pressure or vacuum from the piston acts on the valve guides as well. Vacuum will suck up a minute amount of mist on the intake and pressure on the exhaust will will also cause a minute amount of mist to go up the other valve guides adjacent to them. Even thought the valve guide clearance is about .001 thousanths, it still has room for penetration of oil mist or vapor. Plus as Kiethb has learned from rebuilding his engine you have to lube the parts prior to assembly to prevent metal to metal scoring, scratching etc.. Some might scoff at this, but remember I am talking Micro amounts,(less than what can be seen with the naked eye) that added up over time keeps it lubed from the time of the assembly of the engine. Which is also pertains to oil changes at intervals to keep it clean and let it do its job properly. For those over 50 think of the Brylcream commercial: A little dab a do ya. Joe Lee

Good Job on the video Keith. Saw where you were putting the C-Clips for the piston pins in backwards and was going to forward you a reminder, but someone beat me to it. Also saw where you donated a little blood to the rebuild gods. Your engine and car will be happy with the sacrifice. Something else to consider when rebuilding an engine, it doesn't matter what you have rebuilt before whether it is a dragster or a lawn mower, the basics of engine rebuilds remain the same. The only difference is the scale. To paraphrase an old movie, "Flying an airplane is a lot like riding a bike. It's just a lot harder to put playing cards in the spokes." Robert Stack from Airplane. Joe Lee

I contacted Doc Brown on the dark web, of course he didn't get the message till 2039. He also told me to tell you members living in California to move east of the San Andraes fault line by 2027. Said beach front property was cheap just before Aug 19. Joe Lee

Almost every site including this one is showing me string patio lights. I had a solar one for about 10 years that just went T.U. and was searching for a replacement. On a related topic is all the weird and disgusting tv shows and movies now a days. I used to look at the synopsis first to see if I would want to watch a movie or show, now I look at the date made. Anything after 2015 gets a closer look with all the woke and fringe crap that hollyweird thinks is the norm. My new favorite channels are MeTv and retro tv. The problem with todays movies and shows is no believable story. The problem with ads is to many pharma commercials and ads. Matter of fact saw a post on rumble they are making a WW1 movie about a gay G.I. They can make it if they want to, but it's like they are righting histories wrongs by over shadowing history with trivial matters to appease the small minority that is sqawking the loudest. Think Ghostbusters 2016. Sorry for the rant, just a little worked up due to the cold weather. Nothing to watch and to cool for me to get outside. Joe Lee

One of the other members was talking about this and said that the vacuum setting takes into account the wear on the engine, distributor and such to help make up the difference for the standard settings such as with the timing light, dwell and idle setting. Slop in the timing chain, wear of the piston rings, age and wear in the carb that can't be taken into account with just the manual setting alone. That being said 18-20 inches is just an average. I get about 21-22 inches, but my idle slightly is higher to offset the worn throttle plate bushings. Joe Lee

Alright guys. With all this electron ohms laws mumbo jumbo, I went to an expert. Me and Doc Emmitt Brown installed a Mr. fusion reactor and a flux capacitor and wired it to the headlights. Now i don't worry about night driving or accidents cause the lights are so bright I can see into the future and avoid them. Just a little levity to tie the age of the members, the tech of the day and the technical level of our cars together. Joe Lee

Motors Manual 35-53 says the Dodge 46-48 Distro is the IGS-4207A-1, providing it's still original to the car. Joe Lee

Hey Mark, Simple solution I did to mine was to take a dremmel tool and enlarge the hole to a 3/8ths square and use a breaker bar to get the plug out. Heat the plug area before removal to make it easier. Joe Lee

While the service manual doesn't say to use one or the other specifically, pg 69 in the plymouth manual tells about the uses of each. The first paragraph gives the impression that 160 is the norm and the 180 is for colder climates to help with the heaters. Joe Lee

Something I noticed last year and this year. East of the Mississippi is either underwater or flooding or drenched with lots of rain. West of the Mississippi is on fire or burning hot and ready to burst into flames. Since I'm on the east side I keep my scuba tanks full and ready and have attached some empty 55 gallon drums to the RV to go into houseboat mode if the need arises. That being said, Keith, you might want to look at a mini split AC. easy to install and cost is not to bad. I installed one in my house for about $600 bucks and that was 4 years ago and it works great. My central AC was costing me about $300 to $400 a month to cool the house. The mini split cut that to about $100 to $150 a month. Joe Lee

Impact hammer from harbour freight. It will help with putting the new one in as well. Just turn the setting knob to thump thump thump instead of brrrrrpp. Joe Lee

Welcome to the forum. A very sweet find. After you do the fixin on the car, what do you plan to do about the finish? The paint looks faded more than anything and you might just do a compound and wax to bring it back to original. If you go that route, Drive by that old vets nursing home and show him. It will bring a smile to his face to know you kept your word. Might even add a few more years to him if you take him for a ride once in a while. Joe Lee

Something else to think on as well. Planned Obsolesence. When they used to make good quality products, no matter where, it was hard to sell after the first to second year due to no one needing a replacement. So a lot of companies starting in the late 70's set about making a product that didn't last as long so they could sell the next best thing and people would buy it knowing that what they had was on it's last legs or the new and improved model was better. I mean look at the I-Phone. Every model that came out since the original only had one or two improvements (usually the camera). The trouble with people now a days is all they see is the fun shiny object and they will wait in line for days just to get it. Same with cars. Most people used to buy them every 8-10 years now less than 5 years. Also with all the plastic used to make cars lighter, the sun and heat kill them rather quickly. The only household invention that was worth anything was the flat screen tv. I had a 36 inch sony tube tv for over 20 years. I had to take it to the shop once for a fix and that thing weighed a ton. After it went out again, bought a 40 inch flat screen that I could carry with one hand. There are very few companies that make a good product, mostly in Japan, A lot of American companies moved overseas mainly for the cost saving benefit, but the quality suffered even more after that. Buy any pair of shoes from a second or third world manufacturer and no 2 pair is really the same size. Last thing I'll mention is scientific advancement. Up until the development of the transistor, product development was at a sedate pace. With the transistor, products that were newly developed were obsolete in just a few years due to advancements in electronics then printed circuit boards, microchips, carbon fiber, the list goes on. We have developed more new things in the last 30 years than in the last 300. While scientific advancement is good, the number of new things is so overwhelming, you don't know what's good or bad until it's been out for a while and by then something new has come along. Back to the question of worth, usually the more expensive the better (for parts at least) depending on the the country of origin. America's manufacturing base is slowly coming back but so is the price tag that comes along with it. Between cost of living and the wages today is it any wonder people buy cheap and hope for the best. Joe Lee

I also agree with Rich and Sidevalvepete. The difference with some one like Nickpictoo, is here is a young man who has a father with a good head on his shoulders helping his son. Not by doing everything for him but letting him do for himself and making mistakes and learning from them. Nick doesn't really ask dumb questions. He may ask how to's on occasion but it seems alot of his questions are on where to get x. He will also list a couple of sources to show he is looking, but what I think he wants is a group opinion of who is the best, i.e. do it right the first time thing. Nick is an example of a young man who wants to learn but doesn't yet have the experience and wisdom? that older members have. He is the type of person you want to encourage not discourage. Joe Lee

You guys are right about keeping the battery charged up all the time. I have a 165 watt solar panel on top of my RV and my last set of six volts lasted almost 9 years (hard freeze for Florida for 2-3 days killed one last year and they got changed as a set). Sniper also brings up a good point about temps for batteries. They don't like hot or below 20 degree temps for long. Keeping the battery fully charged and watered for wet cells really extends the life. Might not be of use to you if you garage your car, (Mine stays park outside all the time) but I use a part of a Harbor Freight outside LED solar security light. The LED part let in water and was toast, but the solar panel was fine. It puts out about 6.5 to 7 volts dc and all I did was add alligator clamps to the wires and a couple of magnets to the base of the panel. When I park my car I just put it on the roof. Keeps my battery topped off just fine. Joe Lee

Check the frame behind the left rear wheel, on the upward arc as it went over the axle. They usually had a stamped number there as an ID. P-xx-xxxxxx (Plymouth) or D-xx-xxxxx (Dodge) etc... which matched the original engine number. Don't use a wire brush to clean the area as the stamping isn't that deep and will be erased by the wire brush or wire wheel. Use a rag dampened with light oil or soapy water to lightly clean the area. Joe Lee

Hey Capt, If it is oil, what is the weight of your oil in the filter? If it is a low weight it might, when the engine gets warm, be a result of splash from cornering. Any oil on the sides if the filter? Is it filled to the right level? Any leakage of fuel at the base areas of the carb? Any smoke from the exhaust? Is there a gasket between the air filter and the carb? Is the filter loose between the filter element and the oil reservoir base? Just a few questions to help find the problem. Joe Lee

Hey Benny, Welcome to the site. 1. Check all the grounds and make sure they are clean, rust free and tight. Check the wiring at the grounds for corrosion. 2. If 1 is good check the starter and make sure it is in good condition. The end bearings can wear and cause starter drag. That will be the biggest reasons other than the battery for a slow engine starting. Did you check the battery with a load tester? That is a good test if the battery has the a** to start your car. More than a few people on this site have installed a 6v electric primer pump to prime the carb with fuel to assist with stating after the car has sit for more than a few days as the fuel has a tendency to evaporate or boil off from the float bowl due to engine heat after shutting down. Joe Lee

If it sat for that long, I'd bet dollars to donuts that the rubber fuel line just before the fuel pump is toast and collapsing when the suction from the FP gets ramped up. Also you said a mechanic got it running but it wasn't driven much before selling the car. Check your air filter assy and make sure there is no crap in there that is getting sucked into the carb and causing problems. Joe Lee

I run ethanol in mine with no additives. Loren is right though, these beasts will run on almost any thing. I used to work at a cycle shop that fixed ATV and Jetski's. Every spring the jetski owners would bring them in and say they weren't running right. Turns out they left the ethanol fuel in them all winter long (3-5 months). We'd drain the tanks of anywhere from 3-15 gallons of fuel. I would smell the gas and if it reeked I'd dump it. If it smelled off but still decent I would put in the P-15 and top off with gas at the station on he way home (most times). Because of the low compression that these engines were designed at, they would eat it up like candy. The only thing in these cars that don't like ethanol is the old rubber fuel lines and diaphram of the fuel pump. Make sure they are updated ethanol resistant rubber. I also used in my other vehicles at a ratio of 3-1 new to old gas. Never had a problem in over 4 years. Just don't let it set for over 3 months. Ethanol fuel goes bad quick. Joe Lee

I think the main reason for not leaving the fittings in was over greasing of the bearing. It only takes 1/2 once of grease per fitting. All other fittings you can see the excess grease coming out, but with the rear wheel bearings the excess would be pushed past the grease seal and into the hub possibly greasing your brake shoes. You can use a low pressure grease gun, but only about 2-3 pumps is all you need. Joe Lee

I do. Most mechanics now a days don't know squat about greasing cars. So I usually do it myself. If I have a mech do it, I make sure he is trusted. Joe Lee

Mister B, I have 205/75/15 on my 5 x 15 rims. the front sets a little high but the tires work great. Joe Lee

Hey Bern, What you are missing is the horn ring assembly. I believe the brass T is called the contact plate. The horn ring assembly on a P-15 is the ring and a cover button with the Plymouth logo that screws in place holding the horn ring to the steering wheel. You absolutely have to have that to attach the horn ring. In my photo of my p-15 the top of my ring s broken off and missing but you can see the center with the cap/button part. If you need physical help I live in Niceville Florida about 3 1/2 hours from you. PM me for a Ph. #. That link to the ebay item ain't it. Here is the cap on ebay. 1946 1947 1948 Plymouth Horn Button Emblem Trim B | eBay Here is ehat you want. 1946 - 1948 Plymouth Steering Wheel Ring & Button Special Deluxe | eBay Joe Lee