Lumpy

So sweet! I love it. And like your plan. Yes, pretty up that engine and engine compartment. I for one love the flathead six in my '48, really leaves nothing to be desired. Congrats. That car has personality for sure. Again, that is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet! ken.

I believe there is a reason the factory never went over 8.0:1...even though one can "get away" with more, that's really the "practical" limit. I know that the flathead motorcycle engines that were seriously raced, with full factory support, engineering, and backing never went above 9.0:1. How the top of the piston sits in relation to the top of the block, or deck, is called "deck height". Greg sounds like your 218 has about 3/32nds of "negative deck height". (if the top of the piston protrudes above the deck, then that is "positive deck height") I wonder why that is, a flathead works best when the piston comes as close to the squish area of the head as possible, as mentioned before as close as possible without the pistons banging into the head when the engine is hot and revving. Does the squish area on your heads protrude down into the bore...or is that really as close to the head as the piston gets? Are all 218's like that, or are those not the right pistons in the engine? ken.

The Chrysler flatheads evolved from very low CR's, like 5.5 or 6.0:1 compression ratios all the way up to about 8.0:1 on the 1950's engines. If you mill just the minimum off your head to clean it up, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you get up to 8.5:1 you'll be okay by running good gas and retarding your timing a bit, or run a weak spring in your distributor (or would it be stronger?) so that your advance drops out quickly when going to half and full throttle. Lots of guys will talk about compression ratios over 8.0:1, (and an engine you are going to race is another story) but I have a little bit of experience with flathead motorcycles, and went through a lot of trial and error, and mathematical equasions with my 230 engine when I first got it, and milled the head. Just my opinion, but I think one will get the most power out of the engine, and have a well behaved engine if you keep the compression around 8.0:1. Again, I'm sure you'll live fine with 8.5:1 if you pay attention to all the other details such as timing, and your advance curve. If you get too much ping, you can always easily pull the head and enlarge your combustion chambers a bit. Guys do and have run much more compression than that, but after 8.0:1 you start hitting a "wall" if you will, of diminishing returns. The more you retard your timing, the more power you lose, and the higher your compression the more you'll find yourself doing that, and past a certain point you will lose more than you gain. I believe I'm running around 8.5:1 or a tiny bit more. I can run on regular if I go gently on the accelerator. I do have to run Premium if I want to use a lot of throttle....and I generally do run premium, or some booster as I don't drive the car all the time, and so can afford that. If I had to do it over, I'd stick with 8.0:1 as my maximum. On the motorcycle engines, 7.5:1 works best, but they are air cooled and get much hotter than a water cooled engine. So I really believe 8.0:1 is "ideal", and a bit more you can adjust for. Just some thoughts. k.

Yes, what Dave said. If you stuck with what's in it now, or a replacement, then put in an overdrive transmission, you would be able to keep up with freeway traffic. However, I find that taking the backroads or small highways is much more enjoyable in my '48 D24 than try to blast down a crowded freeway with all the people in a hurry to get to where they are going. !! I don't have an o.d., but can do 65mph for short distances if I have to get on the freeway for some reason. But an o.d. trans should put you in the 75mph range, if that's really a plus. But really, I think the old cars should be enjoyed more than raced from point "A" to point "B". For a daily driver, find something cheap and expendable. Robert, if for some reason I felt I needed something other than the 230 in my Dodge, (but don't foresee that happening) I've always thought that the Jeep inline six would be the bee's knee's as far as an engine swap...and you'd still have Mopar DNA. I'd like to think that the days of throwing chevy engines at anything and everything is coming to an end...but that's just me. !!! ken.

Nice looking head for sure. There is a way to figure out your compression mathematically, but I forgot how to do that. When I milled my iron head years ago I had to do all that, but my notes, as is my memory, is long gone. Can I ask what you paid for that, or what do aluminum heads cost when you can find them, generally speaking. ? When you find that formula and use it, be sure to take the true bore size into consideration. (if the engine has oversize pistons) I would agree that any of the aluminum heads were high compression to begin with, so mill as little as possible. Trust me, (!!!) you won't be happy with anything over 8.0:1. If you need to lose compression, use a thick head gasket obviously, but also if you relieve the chamber above the valves, that will improve flow from the port and around the valves into the combustion chamber. Don't remove any metal from the squish area of the chamber. All things considered, enlarging the combustion chamber in the head (in order to reduce compression) is more better than a thick head gasket, as the thicker the head gasket, the further the piston, at TDC, is from the squish surface, and that increases the tendency for detonation. In a perfect world, the closer the piston is to the squish surface, at TDC, without actually hitting it, is ideal. Generally speaking, .050" is the clearance between piston and head, that we try to get with flathead motorcycle engines. That allows the piston and rods to "grow" a bit when the engine is hot. Okay, probably more information than you wanted, and not the information that you wanted. Too much coffee. ken.

Not to mention that an oil change takes out the impurities down to the molecular level. Sorry...just had to say it. !!! k.

I suppose there is no car that can't be restored, but looking at that one I'm thinking you'll be better off with something in much better condition. I think you'll spend a lot less money, even if you have to spend more on a better hulk now. I don't think it's just the Mopar guys that don't like to see Ford or Chevy engines in Chrysler, Dodges, Desotos and Plymouths. I'm seeing more and more of a trend in the whole car hobby where it's just "preferred" to have a Mopar engine in a Mopar, Ford in a Ford, etc. I've been seeing more and more where perfectly restored cars just don't sell for near as much as they will with an engine from a different make. They just become less desireable cars. I'm seeing this with the old Fords especially. With Chevy engines in them they can hardly sell them for what it cost to build them. With a Ford engine, the bidding will be brisk, and they'll bring good prices. Putting Chevy engines in anything and everything was for a long time quite a craze or fad, but I think now we are seeing that it is just reducing the interest, desireability, and value of the car. Kind of like a bat, which is neither a bird or a mouse, put a chevy engine in a Chrysler and it's no longer either of them. The Chevy guys hate it because it's a Chrysler, and the Chrysler guys hate it because it's got a Chevy in it. Anyhow, there must be better hulks out there that would make a much better starting point. Even if that car was free, it's going to cost more in the long run. You might be able to buy a running car for what it will cost just to get that to the point where you can start thinking about running gear. Just a thought. I could be totally wrong. ken.

I think that a pvc system removes more water vapor from the crankcase, with an open crank case it takes a while longer. Probably an issue with an engine that is used for short runs, and never gets totally warmed up for any significant period of time. Emission requirements may be another reason for the PVC. ? But yeah, my engine just breathes out the draft tube, have never really thought about putting any type of pvc system on it. K.

Just thought of something, since the filler tube does not seal, I suppose you could just block off the draft tube, and that, the filler tube, would allow somewhat filtered air into the crank case. ?? All things considered, that could cause a lot of blow-by to come out the filler tube under full throttle conditions, or any time vacuum falls below a certain point, so perhaps some kind of small air filter on the draft tube would be best. In that case, it might be best to cap off the filler tube with some kind of cap which seals, so that air is only coming into the crank case, and blow by going out, in one location which would be best more towards the bottom of the engine. (and not all over the top of the engine or the distributor) ? I wouldn't use the port for the wipers, that might rob some vacuum from them, possibly they might not wipe as well then. But I'm not sure about that. If you really only have one vacuum port on the manifold, you could put a small spacer between the carb and manifold, and run a port off that. Just some thoughts. k.

You can also just run a line, such as a fuel line from vacuum source to crank case, then put a carburetor main jet in the line. Or make your own plug and drill a small hole. That will do the same thing, and is not quite as big of a vacuum leak as most PCV valves. This has worked for me anyhow. Then modify the draft tube in any way that works for you, could probably stuff it with steel wool to act as an air cleaner. !! Well you get the basic idea. ! Or run a tube/line from the blocked off/modified draft tube to the air cleaner. That's my low-tech fix of the day. Just a thought. k.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you were asking if you should repair the engine that is in the car, or purchase another. ?? (not actually work on the engine, while it's in the car) If that's the case, I would first see if it looks like the engine is the original engine. If so, I'd definitely rebuild it, and not another. I'm not sure how to I.D. an engine as to it's originality, but you can determine the year for sure. Again, if it's a 1948 engine I would fix it, as it's very likely to be the original engine. The engine in my '48 is a 1953. Pulling the head is such an easy task...you might want to do that and look at the cylinder walls. If there is a lot of ridge, then it might make sense to rebuild the engine. If you love your '48 as much as I love mine, and plan to keep it forever, as I do, then a fresh rebuilt engine is a very nice asset, and well worth the money spent in the long run. Knowing the engine is fresh, strong and reliable is a great feeling. A fresh motor makes more power too. Bonus! If the motor looks like it has fairly low mileage, you can indeed pull the pistons and fix a wrist pin with the engine in the car, if you can determine that that is indeed the problem. Hope that helps. ken

This is true, it's possible that if you just run the engine for a few hundred miles, with some good "stuff" in the crankcase, the rings will free up, if indeed it's sticky rings. All the "clues" seem to point to that, although we really don't know exactly how much it's smoking, and if this smoke is smoke, or vapor, or heavy blow-by or what. ??? Clarification please! They used to make additives just for this/that purpose, and it worked well on a International Travelall I bought once, that was a smoker, but like Neil it took a few miles, it's not an instant fix. But on a 318 I once knew, where the rings were super gummed/stuck, pulling the heads, and tapping on the pistons did the trick. You could pour some penetrating oil (or make your own "mix" with some MMO, gas, diesel fuel, or whatever else sounds good) down the spark plug holes, let it soak that way. However, it's so easy to pull a flathead that I can't see any reason NOT to do that. Swapping engines, that's another matter, and I'm not sure if swapping in another "seemingly good" used engine is worth the trouble. Re-reading the first post, it might be worth while to run the engine for a LONG time and see what develops. Maybe it just needed to get up to operating temp. ?? k.

Just exactly how much is it smoking? Some smoke or fumes/vapors will be normal. I'm assuming you mean really excessive. Is it smoking out the exhaust pipe? (in addition to the filler tube) Another possibility, as it has been sitting, is that some of the rings have frozen up, especially if It sat with dirty oil. How long an engine can sit without damage depends a lot on how dirty, or clean the oil was the last time it ran. If that's the case, don't panic. Get some good clean, thin oil in it, and some oil additive made for the purpose of cleaning, or flushing the engine. Add the "stuff", and fresh thin oil, and run the engine per instructions. Maybe give it a couple treatments. Also note and act on suggestions from Coatney, Adams and Elder. !!! Now a worn engine with thin oil, such as 10w40, will sometimes smoke. I hope you are not running such oil....don't answer! Change to a heavier oil. I've bought many an old car that smoked when I got it, changed to a straight Castrol 30wt, and abra kadabra, hocus pocus, motor didn't smoke anymore. Just my experience, not trying to start an oil discussion war. !!!! But do the flushing thing first. Don't just change to a heavier oil at this point. Last resort, pull the heads, hose the pistons with some kind of liquid wrench stuff, and tap on the tops of the pistons with a short piece of 2X4 and hammer. TAP, not bang, whack, or smite. Let the pistons "soak" for a day or two before tapping on them. I agree with Don. True happiness is a fresh rebuilt flathead engine. It's worth the time and money, and will then last you just about forever. Good luck. ken.

Laughing out loudly! I'm thinking if he is 19 years old, it's going to go as much as show! (or am I incorrect on the age?) Also, in that light of a chassis, that engine is going to have plenty of ooooooomph! ken.

It would probably be wise to give the engine and trans some additional support, but I'm sure the he has already thought of it. My idea would indeed be torque straps or chrome chains, but there's different ways to do it. After all, there's no doubt in my mind that that car will be seeing some "enthusiastic" driving and leaps off the line, "dropping" of the clutch, and certainly the smell of burning rubber will be known. !!! In that case a little extra insurance holding the engine down will be required. Just a thought. ken

Yes, good question. Now just in my opinion, I don't think a flow meter is absolutely required. However, it would be interesting to try it, and see. But again, maybe I can't, but I believe I can sync carbs pretty good.... I could run my vacuum advance line to a carb port, but engines can be pretty individualistic as to how they like their advance curve, when it drops out or in, etc. So...I don't know. Just from experimentation, coming off the manifold seems to be where this engine likes it. I have found over the years that one specific type of engine will vary quite a bit as far as how much total advance it likes....such as the small block Mopar V8, or which I've had many. I also know from my drag racing days, that sometimes when an engine feels like it's running good, you find out differently when you go through the traps. I think my engine runs close to perfect, whatever that is. She's smooth and puts out lots of power, in L6 terms. Just some thoughts, and I value everyone's opinion. I love brainstorming on this stuff, and one never knows when one is wrong, I try to keep my mind open to that. Okay...g'night all. k.

I've never used a flow meter to sync carbs, but I've always had good luck so it seems. Also have dual carbs on my BMW motorcycle, and I seem to get them on through sound, feel, and perhaps a little voodoo or ju-ju something. !!! But normally I can find the sweet spot. My vacuum meters come off the manifold, just below each carb, and will show a difference if they are way off. My distributor vacuum advance line comes off the manifold, from a port that is equally between the two carbs. I did play around with them (gauge lines) on the carb ports, but I don't remember how they behaved. I don't think that worked well, and taking them off the manifold, just below the carb seems to work best, for me. I guess that my reason is that if the engine started running badly, I'll know which carb to start trouble shooting. And they look pretty neat waving back and forth in perfect harmony. One of my many springs goes to one of my chokes. For starting when it's somewhat cold, or colder, I usually pull that one full on, then the other one about halfway. When it starts, then the spring and the airflow kind of automatically opens it again. But don't ask me why, it just worked out that way. When it is halfway warm or warmer, I just use one choke, and generally speaking Lumpy doesn't like a lot of choke. Once the car is warmed up, I just look at the starter button, and she fires. Well....just about! I guess my choke system comes under the heading of: "why keep it simple, when it's so easy to make it complicated"? ken.

I believe his front motor mount will keep that from happening, if it's close, or the same as the stock motor mount used on the flathead six. ?? Now I think a couple of chrome chain torque straps from the motor to the frame would look cool, but that's just me. k.

Well now I question the head bolt issue, because that engine was fresh in a crate. But I never paid it no mind before. I know it is a Chrysler Marine ACE engine, it has the data plate and everything riveted to the block. (it's very "bitchen", but under the intake and exhaust manifolds, no way to get a pic) Now for the first time I'm thinking that maybe it WAS a ACE engine, that someone used for a rebuild. Just happened to have it around for some reason. ??? (and happened to have a box of those bolts) Not that it matters...it's one good running, smooth running engine. I had assumed that someone had had it shipped from Chrysler Marine. I will have to do some research on those engines. It's possible that Chrysler Marine also rebuilt their engines, but I can't imaging them using a hodge-podge of those bolts. Anyhow...wow Don, that is one well done clean dual carb application you have. Beats the heck out of mine, although I prefer the smaller carbs. Even so, yours is definitely "better". !! Your linkage is so nice. Did you fabricate that? I salute you, to say the least. My linkage, or the basic package came with the manifold, which is an Offenhauser. All my tuning issues were very minor, I probably spent the most time getting my linkage to work to my satisfaction. For some reason it was real sensitive to return spring tension, and just where I put them. Too little and I had trouble getting my idle down, too much and I had to stand on the gas pedal. So I experimented quite a bit changing the geometry, you can see that on some of my levers I have multiple holes that I played with quite a bit. But it does work well and to my satisfaction now. Again, BRAVO! That is NICE. That is CLEAN. I'm impressed. PaPa John, you go to Don for any further advice!!! ken.

Okay, good to know. Does not sound like a big problem, just some extra work. k.

I heard that the tachs of the L6 don't have numbers on them, just the words: "Slow" and "Slower". Sorry...could not resist. ken.

Believe it or not, those aren't studs and bolts, those are bolts which have threads in the bolt heads. ?? That's what was on the engine when I got it. That is actually a Chrysler ACE marine engine, so maybe that has something to do with it. ?? The engine was found in a warehouse in Pullman Washington, someone had ordered it for a boat, perhaps an old Chris Craft or something, and never paid up. Then it found it's way into Lumpy. I promise I would never run short studs on an engine. So...?? ken.

So now I'm kind of confused. If the Plymouths have the long input shafts...how do you plug one into, for instance, a '48 Dodge with the shorter length bell housing. ? Does not sound like such a bolt-in. Ooops never mind...I think I got it/figured it out. k.

And of course a vacuum gauge and choke cable for each carb.

There they is from the other side. Chrysler Ace marine engine.