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61spit

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Everything posted by 61spit

  1. Nice find! Pretty cool tool.
  2. That does sound nice. Not nearly as loud as I was expecting.
  3. Looking nice and clean. Great job. You will know every crook and cranny of that block.
  4. It kind of looks like this is a choke that mounts on the side of the carburetor rather than on the manifold. Since there is no actuating arm to attach a linkage from this unit to the choke butterfly on the carburetor it makes me think it must mount directly to the butterfly arm on the side of the carburetor. May be for a span of years but only for certain carburetor? Since you said the original choke is still on the car I would look for one that matches it and replace it and the linkage from it to the carb.
  5. Looks like it is cleaning up really well. When I had mine at the machine shop for checking they baked it after it was magnafluxed. They put in new camshaft bearings and ground the valves. I had given them the tappets and cam after they were ground at Delta. It looked like a brand new casing when I got it back.
  6. I think that works out to about $7.78 per gallon at the current exchange rate. Highway robbery is right.
  7. Steady progress. Looks like it is about ready to send to the machine shop to be checked over.
  8. I believe you only start with the anchor bolt arrows pointed to the wheel cylinder. You do turn them to adjust but they are at the lowest point when pointed to the wheel cylinder - the starting point. Seems that if you measured the inside of the brake drum with the MT-19 tool and adjusted the tool to that diameter and then adjusted the brake shoes with the tool there isn't any way the shoes are set too large to get the drum on. Something must have moved/slipped after you set the tool to adjust the brake shoes and they ended up being set too far out.
  9. Here is the linkage that is on mine with a Fenton intake. I think it was the original as it was taken off of an old Dodge at a salvage yard and it still had the original air cleaners on the carbs. I did have to have them re-chromed. It is hooked up to the original bell crank throttle set up on top of the head. Let me know if you need more photos. I can take some with it on the engine later this week.
  10. I think they were aftermarket items. Something you would see hanging on a card at the service station. Supposed to help quiet any brake noise from the drum vibrating. They didn't keep the drum from expanding as they are not that strong of a spring. You can stretch it around the drum and hook the ends together by hand. That was my take on them anyway.
  11. Glad they are helpful. Hope you get things sorted out. If push comes to shove you can always cut the lines you have to a good working length and re-flare the end. Don't forget to slip the fitting on the line before you flare it.
  12. Are you sure you have the right pieces of the pre-cut kit in the right places? Maybe put the Tee block with the brake light switch where you have the coupling. Then the line from the master cylinder comes into that Tee and two lines go out - one to the left front wheel rubber line and one wraps around the front of the frame to the right front wheel rubber line. The lines at the rear wheels shouldn't hang down below the axle housing the way you have them now. The left rear off of the tee where the rubber flex line connects is pretty short to go to that wheel and the right one should go up around the top of the differential with a clip holding it in place. I will see if I can find some photos of how I made new ones from my 53 Plymouth. Looks like it should be pretty similar. Found some photos. Hope they help.
  13. I agree, they wrap around the outside of the front brake drums as a silencer.
  14. Slide the end without the terminal on it backwards through the rubber boot. That way you don't have to work the 90 degree terminal end through the boot. Should slide right up in.
  15. I found one on E-bay a year or so ago and paid $12.00 for it.
  16. This look like the old one you have pictured. I got a couple of them over the years for my Plymouth. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174824144190?epid=1123277774&hash=item28b454bd3e:g:-IIAAOSw0TheEhzs
  17. Bryan, I had a cam with a chipped lobe that I sent to Delta Camshaft along with the 12 tappets to be ground. This was back in 2015. It was 14.50 to weld the lobe and 82.50 to regrind the cam. The lifters were refaced at 3.75 ea. shipping was 18.85. Total bill was $161.35. I didn't think that was too bad. Probably a bit more today but the turn around was quick and the cam and lifters looked like new.
  18. Look forward to seeing the video. Always great fun to hear them come to life after being in pieces and put back together. A great feeling of accomplishment.
  19. Happy New Year! In the midst of our first winter storm here in Iowa. Expecting 8-12 inches of snow today. Glad we took down the Christmas decorations yesterday.
  20. Did you ever get the E-Z Hydraulic Power Brake unit installed? How did it work? I have a new one in the box and was considering installing it on my 53 Suburban. Have gone through the entire brake system and am ready to fill and bleed it. Probably should install the E-Z unit before filling everything up and bleeding.
  21. Could you borrow an impact wrench and hook it up to a portable air tank? Maybe that would be enough to get the bolt jarred loose. Maybe a mobile tire repair truck that could swing by and knock it loose for a few dollars.
  22. Check with Aircraft Spruce. You can get drilled bolts and castle nuts. Wide range of sizes. aircraftspruce.com
  23. I just remember them as artists or albums that didn't sell and went to the cutout/discount rack. They were unopened/brand new. Bought a lot of them for $1 - $2.
  24. Notching device - hmmm. I remember buying LPs at the record store that we called "cut outs". Had a notch in the corner of the sleeve.
  25. Is it a hollow tube or a solid shaft that could be a handle to a valve?
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