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mopardude

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Everything posted by mopardude

  1. mopardude
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-1951-1952-1953-1954-1955-1956-Chrysler-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Hose-NEW/183458581401?epid=7024312575&hash=item2ab6fbcb99:g:SQcAAOSwk6dbrkXk&frcectupt=true
  2. mopardude
    At a quick glance, those rotors don't look right for an IGS distributor.
  3. mopardude
    I think that the two starters use different solenoids. I'm not sure of the other differences within the starter itself.
  4. mopardude
    Very sorry to hear. Your posts are very informative.
  5. mopardude
    http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/regions.htm I'd contact the Lone Star Region of the club. They list contact info on there. Maybe they'd be able to get word out.
  6. mopardude
    My understanding was "SP15" for an engine number means that it was a P15 engine used in a foreign DeSoto. That DeSoto would have been a rebadged Plymouth.
  7. mopardude
    I have a buddy looking for one of those u-joints for his American P15. I guess some of them came with them too? Do you have any idea what the GM part number is for those u-joints?
  8. mopardude
    Didn't get V8 until '51 I believe.
  9. mopardude
    I'm confused about these springs. I was curious reading this thread so I tried it on my own, looking for enlightenment. When I held a light under mine with pliers holding the inside of the coil, the outer part of the coil rotated. The inside looked like it tensed up a bit, but the outer portion looked like it was "expanding" and rotating correctly. Is this the way that they're suppose to work? The one I tested is NOS as far as I know. Would love to know as my heat riser had no spring in it when I bought the car.
  10. mopardude
    Don't worry, after $150,000 invested, you can always sell it for a loss that being said, I'd love to have it lol.
  11. mopardude
    I think that pre 1949 were all non-pressurized caps, though. '49 and up were pressurized I do believe.
  12. mopardude
    I had to remove mine as an assembly. I undid the pedal pads, undid the springs and clutch linkage, and removed the pedals and master cylinder through the floor of the car. I then removed the c-clips, took off the pedal linkage, and pressed out the pin. I'm not sure that it's the only way, but it was the easiest way for me.
  13. mopardude
    My thoughts are the first set shows pistons, rings, bearings, etc where as the second kit doesn't. A bit of an apple2orange comparison I also don't believe most of the after market gasket sets come with the rear main seals. A lot of them come with the chain case front seal, though.
  14. mopardude
    Why would they make you stay on the grounds? I'm just asking to figure out how many fences I might have to jump.
  15. mopardude
    I'm sorry if I was unclear. I need to remove it to replace the master cylinder. The master cylinder on the car is absolute garbage.
  16. mopardude
    I didn't see a nut/bolt on it? I just saw a cotter pin and c-clip. It is definitely pressed in there. The part that I was referring to is called the clutch pedal shaft in the parts book and is part number 871975. I'm assuming that it is just pressed in and I just need to machine press it out.
  17. mopardude
    Hey there folks, I've been slowly combing through this vehicle. I can only put in a few hours every week, so what I can do is limited. Anyway, I'm at the point of replacing the master cylinder, and I can't seem to find any reference on removing the rod. The rod I'm referring to is that one that runs through the front of the master cylinder between the clutch and brake linkage. Do I need to have this pressed out of my old one and into a new one? Or is there a way that I can do it without a press. Thanks for any help.
  18. mopardude
    P6 is a 1938 Plymouth.
  19. mopardude
    Just throwing my name in there, he sent an identical email to me with the same price and everything. He sent it for an access plate for the master cylinder on my '42.
  20. mopardude
    It's running. It has an incorrect aftermarket coil hanging loose in the engine compartment. Also has a non-original starter and incorrect ignition switch setup. I have all of the correct parts to replace it with, I just need the time now . Car is in Brockton right now btw.
  21. mopardude
    I got myself an original parts book and shop manual already! I believe the gauges all work, except maybe the temp gauge since that seems to be the one to break.
  22. mopardude
    I never have before. I have the hub puller for the rears. My father had a MoPar years back, so I'll be using some of his tools and expertise.
  23. mopardude
    This is my first classic car. I bought her on Tuesday and I'm planning on doing the brakes this weekend.
  24. mopardude
    IGS-4111-1 is an original distributor for a 1941 Plymouth according to my Autolite manual. I had a book somewhere that showed spark plug cross references, I'll see if I can find that. I do know that Champion J11C plugs will work. Not sure on other brands.
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