RodFru2u

Hi all, I've decided to install a oil filter on my '50 B2B, I picked up what I think is a complete by pass unit at a friends place. I have read past posts about the pros and cons on installing an oil filter but I have not found any information about how to " Plumb" the lines. My block has two small plugs where I think the oil lines go, The upper plug has the oil pressure gauge hooked up thru it . The by pass filter has two connection locations, the bottom of the filter is plumbed to run the oil up the center of the filter, thru a small hole in the pipe. The other connection is near the top of the filter. So I guess my questions are; what size at the plugs in the block ? What size copper tube should I use for the lines, What is the correct locations for the oil lines? Do I split/ "T" off the oil pressure line and go to the filter? Thanks for all the help and information, Rod

Thanks ALL for the rim suggestions and all the quick replies about my rim troubles. WoW what a wealth of information you all have. I was LUCKY and found two good OEM rims.I was given one that was in a pile of rusted scrap and bought another from a RV Dealer. I looked at quite a few rims that would work but looked different, I even bought one and drilled it for the locating pin on the front.I now have a spare tire ( Yippie). Now one of my problem is where to put it? The PO installed a fuel cell where the spare tire would go, So I either have to mount it in the bed or side mount it. Turns out I was VERY LUCKY, Upon closer inspection I had less than 1 Inch of solid metal. It was thought maybe I was running too large a tire. I have P235 75 R 15's mounted , I read old posts and seems many of the group use the same size on their trucks. I know my alignment is in need of adjustment but I've never seen nor anybody looking at the wheel a break like the one I have. Oh well, Just another fun day playing with these trucks.Thanks again for all the replies and help, Now I get to work on some of the other issues that 'Ole Bessie has. More posts and questions to come in the future, Rod

Thanks all for the replies and suggestions, I think I found one local in Bell Gardens CA. I will know for sure once he gets it from another shop. I did find a rim that will work as a spare ( once I drill it for the locating hole). I am keeping my eyes open for another rim just in case. I'll be hitting a few junk/salvage yards in the area in the next few days Thanks for the list of cars for me to check out . Thanks again for the knowledge you all possess and share with all, Rod

While driving the truck ('50 B2B ) this morning I felt a shimmy and shaking about 2 miles from the shop ( Pop's Garage). I limped there and luckily coasted to a stop. Got out of the truck looked at the front end and darn near had to change my shorts. The drivers side front wheel ( rim) was split, Some how it looks like the center of the rim was ripped out and twisted out of the rim, There is less then 1" of untorn metal that is holding the two pieces together. Even the tow driver could not be sure the truck would make it up the ramp ( flat bed tow). Pop and I check all the vehicles in the fleet for a swap out rim because of course I HAVE NO SPARE. Well turns out Mom's 2000 Lincoln Town Car 16" rim had the same 5 bolt pattern and fit, However there was NO mounting/locating hole for the front. On the truck there were three different type of rims all the same bolt pattern some with locating holes one without. We swapped out the rear rim with the locating hole to the front and mounted the Lincoln tire/rim on the rear. Felt it would be ok to get it home, on the flat bed. Well now that it is home the question is What rims are out there that will fit a 15" - 5 bolt pattern? Anybody have a suggestion on what Car/Trucks and years I should be looking for in the junk yard ? Thanks for any advice and help, Rod

Well, 'Ole Bessie is still on the road with a busted 3 speed column shift set up. We finally got some time to crawl under her and see just what is going on. GT was kind enough to sell me and bring me down a 1 ton 3 speed transmission that he had up in Santa Barbara. A BIG Thank you for that ! We were able to pull the top cover off the installed transmission Column shift ), Remove the top cover off the "spare transmission" ( Floor shift ) and put them side by side to swap over. NO GO !!! The 1/2 ton shifter fork is wider and deeper then the 1 ton, the shift linkage for the 1 ton appears to be longer too. So either I have to " Fix " the column shift or Swap the two. It looks like the "E" brake drum is bigger on the 1 ton but the flange for the front U joints bolt pattern looks close, is it the same or will that cause me problems? The bolt pattern on the bell housing to the transmission looks the same, is it ? The Main Shaft coming out of the 1 ton measures out at 3/4 inch. I have a '50 B2B 218 Ci engine, does anybody know if the pilot bushing is that big ? Does anybody know what the size is of a 3 speed column shift main shaft? I know the best thing to do is tear her down, replace the friction disk,throw out and pilot bearings but I am trying to do this on the cheap and keep her on the road for now. I love the truck and enjoy the thrills she gives me every time we head out. My wife has been in more tow trucks in the past 3 months with this new project then she has been in the past 10 years with my other toys, and she knows I'll get it fixed and figured out soon. Thank you for all the GREAT information and sources of parts this forum and members have to offer. With out your help I would have to think about another manufacture's product to restore and work on and what fun would that be ? Thanks again for all the help and info, Rod I love the truck and want to keep her running as stock as I can

Great Job, Now you don't mark your spot that way anymore.

Great question Josh, My ' 50 B2B radiator just started leaking as well. I'll be watching your posts and see what the group says.

Thanks all for the input and information, I will swing by this morning with my tape measure and see if the top plate measures the same with the same bolt pattern. He has not mentioned price for the whole transmission, I am not sure if he will part it out and just sell me top plate and shifter ( if it fits ) or make me buy it all. I guess it all depends what he will sell and how much he wants. Has anybody ever just swapped out the top plates before? Looks pretty straight forward, the only problem I see is where the finger from the stick goes verse how the linkage hook up and move the gears around.I see what he says today and what he will charge to install and aline the top plate with the stick shift. More later, Thanks again. Rod

I had a chance to swing by the Transmission place this morning. The owner was there and we chatted about how he could repair the column pivot that had broken off. Turns out he is more of a " Ford / Chevy " Guy but he'd give it a shot. " bout $ 150.00 " he says. I showed him the Transmission linkage on the top and he said he had a transmission that had the same band brake as mine.We went around the side and amongst the torn up carcass of many assorted transmissions was this Beauty. He thinks it is the same transmission as mine, with a stick shift. Can anybody tell from the pictures? I think the bolt pattern is the same as mine (4), the drain plug at the back on the bottom side, the Band brake and U joint yoke appear the same. No idea if the top plate will swap over or even if it's a 4 speed or a 3 speed. Would it matter if it's a 4 speed and I want to swap top plates with my 3 speed? I will post the pictures I took and see what you all think, Thanks a lot for any and all help in keeping 'ole Bessie on the road and back in the wind.

Thanks for the information about the adapter plate, I have talked to a few salvage yards and just get blank looks and no help. I got a lead on a shop I plan on checking out, They do rear end gear swaps, I've been by his shop and there are 6 long term projects going on there and 4 or 5 in his bays being worked on. All appear to be late 40's thru 60's, His second in command suggested a "Hurst" Shifter adapter, but the main man was out for the day. A return visit is planed today.I don't mind the 3 speed and would rather find a " Top plate floor shifter " swap out and be back on the road with no other modifications or messing with drive shafts mounts or adapter plates for new transmissions. If anybody has a spare or knows were one could be sourced I would really appreciate any help or more information. Thanks for all the help, This Group is GREAT and the wealth of information is a wonderful source of support for us " New " owners of these excellent vintage trucks, Thanks again

Thanks for the quick replies, YES This is what I was looking for. I will look for a '52 or later truck transmission and price it. I have replaced a few clutches and removed/replaced the transmissions and swapped out a few engine/tranny sets, but never have tried to marry a non mated engine and transmission. I will search out more on the files on what others have done and see if I can do it and what it takes. If I have to go to the local Transmission shop or a salvage yard is a better source. Most of the " Pick a Part " auto junk yards have limited " Vintage" supply.

Hello all, I have a '50 B2B, Yesterday I found out I could not get into first gear or reverse. For some unknown reason the Linkage/Pivot point spot welded to the steering column was torn off. I tried to make a clamp to hold it in place or at least in the same area. The clamp did not hold very well or stop the linkage from moving around. I opened the floor transmission panel to see if I could engage the linkage to "force" the transmission into reverse.With much work and jiggling I was able to get the truck to back up, I have been able to take off in second gear but I am afraid of burning out the clutch out and causing a new headache. I have a stock flat head six engine, and was driving it daily. I was not happy with the performance/speed on the freeway or the gas mileage, so a different rear end and transmission maybe in the future anyway. I love/hate driving the truck and the looks I get on the road , I am not looking to get rid, junk of sale the truck. So I guess my questions to the group are : 1. Is there an adapter to convert the column shift to a floor shifter ? 2. Is there straight across swap automatic transmission I can do and what is it ? 3. Is it better to replace the steering column (if I can find one) and run it 4. Anybody know of a good transmission shop in So Cal ( LA area) ? 5. Anybody ever have this happen to them and if so, what did they do? 6. Is there a 4 speed transmission that will bolt up to my engine (stock) without much hassle ? Thanks all in advance, this forum has been a great wealth of information and advice. I have gotten so much help in reviewing all the posts.

Welcome to the fun, Nice bunch of trucks you picked up.

Nice looking truck, what's under the hood ? I agree, If it's running, drive it enjoy it and see what you want to do to it.

Thanks all for the warm welcome and quick replies. Later today I will check to see if there is an ID plate on the driver's door jam and try and get some more pictures and information. As far as Mods go, I want to get the truck back on the road first, Drive it in day to day conditions and then decide what I need to do to make it comfortable for me. We ( my father and I ) try and keep the fleet as original as we can except for safety upgrades like seat belts and turn signals. I picked this project because she was a runner and had no rust or cancer ridden parts. One of our first projects 1934 Packard took longer and cost more then we expected because of the body work, but the results were spectacular. The next project was a 1951 MG TD. Pop is the second owner of her, It was his daily driver from 1959 - 1965 when he retired her. Both cars are numbers matching original California Cars. We still enjoy working on them and driving them, Before the Dodge joined the fleet, We had been working on a 1948 Packard Woody, Before we got it in the 80's some Butcher cut/ modified the station wagon body into a Pick Up. The conversion was poorly done and beyond reverting back to "stock". That project is on hold and delayed so I can get my new project back on the road, and dragging parts to the sand blaster and paint. More Pictures later, Rod

Afternoon all, A deal on a truck drove ( ok was towed ) into my garage, I was in the market for a truck that would not require a smog test, and an engine I could work on . I was told she was a Dodge Pilothouse, A 1950’s vintage. A flat head inline 6 is where she gets her power , The previous owner was not sure if it’s a 218 or a 230. He tried few Mods to fuel inject and then back to single carb . I went to the Mopar Spring Fling at Woodley Park in the San Fernando Valley out here in Southern California a few weekends ago Not one PH to look at and compare to what I have. I picked up a Repro shop manual for a 1950 B-2 series for $ 25.00,figuring I’ve wasted more bucks buying spare Whitworth nuts and bolts in the past, So if I got the wrong book no biggie. I have lurked in the attic of this forum for a little while and now I have a few questions. The CA Title says it is a 1950 Dodge, From the pictures is there any way to tell just what I have here ? Does the numbers/letters ( B-2-B , B-1-B etc. ) mean anything or are they just Dodge model numbers ? Is there any way to tell from numbers on the block or vin what size engine I have ? Thanks all in advance for all your help, This forum has been a wealth of information and look forward to spending many more hours of reading and learning about my truck. Thanks again for everything, Rod

Nice looking camper.