61farnham

2 hours ago, Sniper said:

 I got to quit waking up so early, lol.  You're doing it right.

No worries, takes me a coffee or two to kick the grey matter into gear..

16 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Hmm, either that pic is flipped or it is righty loosey in old Blighty, lol.

Nope, no pic flip here. Breaker bar/pipe are on the puller screw so definitely righty tighty. 

On 9/28/2024 at 1:13 AM, Tom Skinner said:

Stop beating it with Hammers!

I use a 1-1/4" Socket and a Long 1/2" Coaxing Bar (2-1/2 Feet Long). Right where the DOG Bone Fits on.

Keep Stepping on it until it POPS. (Do Leave the Castle Nut on Loose)So the damn thing doesn't de-nut you or fly into the wall across the Garage

Turn it little by little with your foot until BANG it gives way.

Tom

PS. In this way maybe you don't Monk up the Axle Ends, beating on it (The Dog Bone)with a Hammer.

It is more reliable as to when it will POP my way

Here's my method 3/4" drive breaker bar and a subtle piece of pipe for extra leverage!!!

Another recommendation for Then & Now rebuild kits, impressed with the quality and service. 

32 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

well, .008 is within factory specs..just at the upper end..you can ride as is..and monitor this and address should it change...or go the added step to reduce this now while you are working this issue.  The problem with many values and ideas expressed here is they do not reflect the values and standards of the engineers and it was well known, Chrysler aligned the company with the best engineers out there. Some folks just like to yell out, close enough and throw in the towel as it may be labor intensive.  

Sound advice, appreciate your input.

Finally got time to make some axle shims. Started with 0.045" and now got 0.030" of shims at each end giving me 0.008" of end play with new bearings. The book states 0.008" to 0.003" of end play with a preference for the lower value. In a post above James_Douglas said he set his axle end play at 0.010" to allow for heat from highway speeds, my  question is is it ok to leave the end play at 0.008" or should I remove some shims to give a bit less end play. I've not tackled this job before so any advice is welcome.

Regards to all.

I was looking for similar info as the OP and found the answers in this thread, thanks for everyone's input. Much appreciated.

22 hours ago, JerseyHarold said:

Could a local shop reline the emergency brake band?  Might be cheaper and quicker than dealing with mail order.

I recently had my spare E-brake band relined here in the U.K. when I had my brake shoes relined, cost me £25.00 for the E-brake band which is around $30.00 to you much cheaper than buying a new one. My Plymouth service manual states a lining thickness of 5/32".

1 hour ago, Bryan said:

Would this be the same for the D24 Dodge? 

Worked ok on my P15 engine so I don't see why not. Vintage Power Wagons only sell one kit so I assume all Mopar 23" blocks use the same length studs.

10 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

by typing piston 954808 onto e-bay search you would have found these in a split second...

Typed that into Google and came up with nothing useful, I'll remember eBay next time. Thanks for your input.

17 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

That 954808 # was superseded in 1954 to #1241625.....

Which is 1942-1952 Ply/Dodge .030 OS.

That's good to know.

Thank you.

13 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

mic the bore......

Thanks, yes plan to down the line when I get deeper in to it.

I've just pulled the head and was hoping someone has an answer to satisfy my curiosity.

Regards...  Simon.

Hi all, 

Just brought a replacement engine for my  P15 Plymouth and I'm trying to establish what size the piston's are from the part no .stamped on them which is DPCD 954808 W and a heart shape.  I can't find any reference to it on the net but have found the following - 

954800 - standard

954802 - .005 oversize

954805-  .020 oversize

but I can't find any info for any larger sizes.

It's a P15 block and I've got a P15 parts book but it lists different no's for the pistons.

Anyone shed any light on it.

Wagon's looking good.

Who did you get to do the machining work on your engine only asking as my Plymouth's in need some work?

There's a guy not to be messed with!!

Great pic.

Check out this earlier post, I used the bushings and shaft from a '46-'48 F**d on my '48 Plymouth master cylinder.

Looks good, hope it works out.

That no.'s not listed but I've just cross referenced the '42-'48 no. with my P15 parts book and realised that the no's quoted in the Hollander are for the complete steering box assembly, the housing body has a separate part no. not sure which one is stamped on the housing. As usual with old cars it's not straight forward.

Is there a part no. on the box? 

According to the Hollander Plymouth used different boxes for the following years -

'37-'38 Mopar no.     667206

'39         "          "        691320

'40                              854134

'41                               867826  

'42-48                        953369

Not sure on the Desoto but my P15 Plymouth's shaft is "3/4 dia. same as the Ford.

This is timely as I'm just starting to look into what's required to rebuild the steering box on my '48 P15, according to my newly acquired Hollander manual the bearings no's for your '38 box should be -

upper - Timken 5BC/6A

lower - Timken 5BC/6C

It list's the Ford  '38-'48 bearings as - 

upper - Timken 5BC/6

lower - Timken 5BC/6C

what the difference is between the 6 and 6A upper cup is I don't know.

Annoyingly the Hollander doesn't list seals but if have the parts book or the original mopar part no. for the seal you should be able to cross reference it to an up to date number using the link below -

https://www.allsealsinc.com/pdfs/Timken_Seal_Interchange_and_Cross_Reference_Guide.pdf

Below are couple shots of the Hollander showing bearing no's and key.

Hope this helps.

Regards...  Simon.

If money's no object then I could live this in the garage -   

1954 Plymouth Belmont concept

Did this job last year, check out this thread. Ideally new bushes should pressed in and would recommend using new bolts as these wear too.

Thanks for that, appreciate the quick answer.

$26.23 sounds a good deal, I'll phone around to see if I can get someone to match it?

Hi all, quick question ,does any body know if a Dodge D24 steering box/column is a straight swap into a Plymouth P15. 

Regards ..... Simon.