P15-D24
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We checked it out last night. Clear cool night on the coast starting with a beautiful sunset! Was hoping to be able to see Saturns rings with my binoculars but could only pick out some of the moons around Jupiter. If you can get to a telescope it's worth the effort. If you check YouTube for will find a couple streams of telescope images live. Just do a search .
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Post the forge numbers.
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Many years ago I working the booth at a trade show and the company next to us did explosive welding. Didn't think much about it until I started looking at the samples on the table (It was a really slow show) and a sample of aluminum welded to bronze caught my eye. Wait a minute, how did you do that? He explained the process and and noted production days were a lot of fun with all the explosions! Customers were mostly military contractors who needed weird hybrid materials.
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Found it! It's uploaded now in the Downloads section.
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I have a set of factory instructions for the Ammco unit somewhere. If I can find it I will post it in the Downloads section.
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With dimensions...
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Agree, check the oil lines. I had one crack and it was leaking a quart every 30 seconds.
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Yes they should but don't bet on it. Better to have spares than trying to find some after the fact. Check you PM, just sent you the Hollander info on your block choices.
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That's good, gives you more choices. Is this a standard 3 speed? Standard clutch, fluid drive or Hy-Drive? Make sure you get all the rod and main bearing caps back.
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Hummm, that number shows up as a head casting number. Let me check another reference book.
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Look further back on the side of the block by the distributor, should be something like 1119729 or 1326299 or 1484929. Blocks with 1119729 and 1326299 are also used on the 218 blocks. Also what is the crank forge number? It's cast on the crank.
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What is casting number on the block you have? I will check Hollanders for block that interchange.
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If you have all the 230 internals, I.E. rods, crank, flywheel you can use a block from a 218 for a core.
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Knock the key out of the drum with a drift punch and hammer. Drive it towards the outside of the drum. Remount the drum, line up the keyway slot and install the axle nut snug but not torqued.. Then tap in the keyway in with a hammer till flush. Then final torque the axle nut.
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I would be up for two.
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Just want to remind all that if you haven't voted yet, today is the last day, last chance! Doesn't matter which side you are on, the only thing that matters is your voice is counted by voting! PS I voted by drop box last week!
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'49 D29 Club Coupe 10 inch drum brake source?
P15-D24 replied to MoparSasquatch's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Might want to investigate to see if a generic replacement brake drum could be adapted to your hub. One member took this approach and simply had the extra wide lip machined off. Even with the machine work for the hub and edge it was a pretty inexpensive solution for a new drum. Hopefully that member will chime in. -
Agree check the bearing clearance with plastic gauge. I'm assuming this is a 218/230, are you sure you set the rod offsets up correctly?
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Might want to try pre-pressurizing the oiling system with an external pot. The assembly lube doesn't last very long.
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Did you back off the minor adjusters? You can always remove the nuts on the major adjusters, drive the bolts in so the shoes come off the major adjuster "shoulder" and the hub should pop right off.
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If he can't use his computer try a smartphone.
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Manifold studs and brass nuts information required
P15-D24 replied to 37business's topic in Technical Archives
Vintage Power Wagons has the correct fasteners.
